Replacement Big End Shells

[Ian Vincent]

For a variety of reasons I have dropped the sump on my TR3a and whilst I was in there I decided to check the condition of the big ends.  There was some evidence of wear although this hasn't manifest itself in low oil pressure.

Anyway, for the sake of a few quid on a new set of shells I have decided to replace them and in the course of a quick search on the web found that King (who seem to be the main supplier of shell for TRs offer a standard range and their XP range which they claim offer all sorts of benefits including better oil flow but they make the point that they are suitable for use with forged steel cranks.  Apparently they are a tri-metal product with a harder surface material.

Is there a view on whether or not these would be suitable for a regular crankshaft?  The cost difference is about £30 which is negligible in the grand scheme of things being less than the cost of 5 litres of decent quality oil.

Rgds Ian

PS and is there any alternative supplier to King?

 

[trchris]

Hi Ian

when l rebuilt my 4a engine l was supplied tri-metal King shells by the company who did the machining for me and these were a lot cheaper than the usual TR suppliers surprise surprise. I think King have the monopoly in the market and the guy’s l used didn’t have any bad feedback either on using them when l asked about them.

Chris

[Nigel Triumph]

I used King trimetal bearing shells when rebuilding a 2.5 litre saloon engine for my GT6 a few years ago. They were supplied by Chris Witor, the big Triumph saloon specialist. His reputation is that he never sells spare parts he wouldn't be happy to fit to his own cars.

I've only done about 5k miles since the rebuild, but so far so good, no reason to doubt the quality of the King bearings.

Nigel

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Take a look at the centre main while you are in there and check the thrust washer end float.

 

Anything here?

 

https://www.classicengineparts.co.uk/categories/cep-bearings-and-bushes-big-end-bearings?by_vehicle[v_make_slugs]=triumph&by_vehicle[v_disp_slugs]=triumph%3A1991&by_vehicle[v_bore_slugs]=&by_vehicle[v_slugs]=triumph-tr2_1952-to-56&site=classic-engine-parts&form_key=by_vehicle&category=Big-End-Bearing&schema=10927

or here

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/engine/engines-components/internal-engine-tr2-4a-1953-67.html#86

 

Edited November 18, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[John L]

Peter

Its interesting when you look at the above sets individually, the lube hole for the small conn rod end appears to be in a different place on both sets, is that important? I guess it should match with the conrod, or are there differences in those as well?

John

[Rob Salisbury]

Hi Ian,                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  If you can get a set of the correct size and in good condition then my number one choice would be Vandervell VP2, after that's what Triumph used originally, trouble is these days all the sets available are at least 50 years old and some haven't stood the test of time with regard to storage, a chap called Basel Adams a College Prof in America set about buying up most of the available Vandervell sets and may have what you need at a price. (Google Basel Adams Vandervell)                                                                     Cheers Rob 

[Colin Symonds]

King Tri metals fitted to my 4a by TRGB on a full engine rebuild.

[Ian Vincent]

Thks for the various replies. I have ended up ordering a set of King Tri-metal bearings from CCK Historic for just over £50. 

Rgds Ian 

[Waldi]

My crank shaft was ground during my rebuild to 1st undersize.

I initially had the King bearings but during assembly measurements I found the clearance to the shaft was higher than inspected.
So I double checked the clearance and used plastigage and “in/out”micrometers and both methods gave the same outcome (to my surprise and satisfaction) . I then ordered Glyco bearings and these achieved a lower clearance.

Glyco are available new, and not overly expensive.

Waldi

[Ian Vincent]

Hi Waldi,

Thks for the suggestion but I have just checked, and the Glyco bearings I would need are out of stock everywhere I looked.  As and when the bearings I have ordered turn up, I will check them with plastigauge before I finally fit them.

Rgds Ian

[iain]

15 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

Hi Waldi,

Thks for the suggestion but I have just checked, and the Glyco bearings I would need are out of stock everywhere I looked.  As and when the bearings I have ordered turn up, I will check them with plastigauge before I finally fit them.

Rgds Ian

Hi Ian

I don’t think there is anything wrong with the King higher spec tri metal  bearings. Commonly used by many engine builders…… Tr Enterprises, Revington and I guess more.  I don’t think they would use them if there aren’t up to the job?

Iain

[Waldi]

Hi Lain,

I had my crank shaft re-ground and then ordered the King bearings and found out the clearances were too high. I was told King make them a bit larger because they are used in race spec engines.
So if your crank shaft is already ground you have to accept the larger clearance with the King bearings to start with and I did not like that.

Or if the crank has not been ground, you can tell the shop to what dimension they should grind.

I bought the Glyco’s from Rimmer, but others sell them too.

Best regards,
Waldi

[iain]

Hi Waldi

i’ve never heard that, but you could be right. I have no issues with mine and have very healthy hot oil pressure. 40/45psi after 100 plus mile runs. (I do quite a lot of miles compared with most around 5000 miles per annum.)

Iain