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Yesterday I was going around all the grease points and realised there as one I hadn't done for some while, if ever - the one at the front of the prop shaft. I couldn't get my grease gun coupler on as what was fitted is a short straight nipple rather than an angled one. So, I thought, I'll take that out and fit an angled one.

As I was removing it a voice was telling me- you'll never get an angled nipple, or this one, refitted in that tight space, and it was correct - I'm struggling.

Has anyone any thoughts or tips on just how to hold the nipple in place and get a couple of turns to start it in the threads?

Thanks

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Hello Roger

I've tried a small socket on the straight nipple but it's such a tight space from below or above through the access hole in the tunnel - that it is very hard with my stubby fingers to hold it in place and turn it without dropping it onto the box section below and then scrabbling to get it back. I've tied some light string on to the nipple to stop it falling but I'm still struggling to hold it square on the 'hole' and get the thread to start

I though I might next try some stiff wire to hold it around the top of the nipple and in a way that a spanner can still be got onto the hex part and turn it.

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Do you have a flexible grease-gun  hose? If so could you clip the straight nipple in that and use the hose to both locate the nipple and turn it ?  Obviously that won't work with the angled nipple. 

Alternatively a length of fuel hose pushed on the nipple might do it . 

Edited by RobH
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It is possible to remove the propshaft without removing the tunnel. I know because I have done it. So if nothing else works and you don’t want to remove the tunnel you could try that. You need good selection of sockets and extensions along with suitable spanner to hold the nut. 

Rgds Ian

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Maybe replace the grease nipple with a much longer one, just to get the grease in and then remove it and plug the hole with a short Allen head screw, glued to an Allen key. Once screwed in place wobble the Allen key to break the glue joint. I believe that you can get flexible Allen keys if need be.

Charlie.

Just spotted these. Don’t know if they are the correct size, but it proves that such things do exist..

https://www.abingdonmgparts.co.uk/product/grease-plug-1-4--x-3-8--grease-nipple-blank%3A/sk604030

 

Edited by Charlie D
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I have left the straight short grease nipple in place and initially used a grease gun with a pointed wand with no clip-on nozzle but it is difficult not to make a mess. The problem was definitively resolved by a pal who gave me a filed down clip-on end nozzle for the grease gun. It works perfectly!

james

Edited by james christie
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3 hours ago, Charlie D said:

Maybe replace the grease nipple with a much longer one, just to get the grease in and then remove it and plug the hole with a short Allen head screw, glued to an Allen key. Once screwed in place wobble the Allen key to break the glue joint. I believe that you can get flexible Allen keys if need be.

Charlie.

Just spotted these. Don’t know if they are the correct size, but it proves that such things do exist..

https://www.abingdonmgparts.co.uk/product/grease-plug-1-4--x-3-8--grease-nipple-blank%3A/sk604030

 

I put a long grease nipple in and just leave it there. Greasing is a 30 second job, remove rubber cover plug, apply grease, replace plug.

 

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You could try a pair of Spence wells artery forceps. They lock so that you can hold the nipple at a distance…..if you know what I mean…..

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If you have a bench grinder and hand drill (electric). Put the grease nipple in the drill (thread outwards), spin it up and very lightly turn a bevel on the first millimeter of the thread.....hopefully then, the nipple will easily self centre and screw in without loosing the ability to hold pressure from a grease gun.

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Thanks again for all the thoughts and advice.

I've managed to do it today using a ~4½ inch length of plastic tube that was a fairly tight fit over the nipple end of the grease nipple and managing to drop/hold the nipple in place with the tube whilst turning with an open ended spanner.

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On 6/1/2023 at 2:32 AM, Rod1883 said:

Thanks everyone. Some things for me to try ......

John - the nipple is quite a way aft of the large rubber bung in the tunnel. Drilling another hole above the nipple location could be another option.

I'm surprised the nipple isn't somewhere directly under the rubber plug. On my daily driver TR2 it is directly under the rubber and is a bit further aft on my other two sidescreens but easily accessible through the hole.

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1 hour ago, John McCormack said:

...I'm surprised the nipple isn't somewhere directly under the rubber plug...

Surely the only reason for the bung is to get to the nipple, so it should line up.

I wonder if Rod has fitted a  4 synchro box. I have one in my 3A and it is slightly longer than the 3 synchro box and so makes the nipple less easy to get to.

 

Charlie.

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On my TR4, the nipple on the sliding part of the prop shaft lies behind the large rubber bung, which hides the universal joint.

Like Peter, I cut a hole and have sealed it with a n old rubber bung (from whence, I know not!).

Ian Cornish

 

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