Whoops! Does it matter

[John Mellor]

Hi all I was fitting a new gear lever gaiter ( TR4 ) and in order to get access I needed to lift the carpet. I had to release the H bridge and realised that it wasn't connected to the dashboard via two nuts and bolts at top of fascia panel ( not sure of the correct names for these parts ). Were I able to bolt these myself I would; however, the holes in no way aligned, probably more than a cm out of whack. Having said that all seemed extremely solid.

All back to usual. OK???

[John Morrison]

Better with the bolts in John 

try putting a screwdriver in one hole and levering the dashboard up whilst you insert the second bolt 

John

[twostrokekid]

The  body isn't the stiffest of structures and on the rare occasions I've driven with this aluminium bridge removed I've noticed a lot of scuttle shake. I think you'll find it's a much smoother car with it fitted.

[Malbaby]

Agreed.

[John Mellor]

Ok guys I'll try the screwdriver trick. If it had been flexible I'd have had a go, one lower bolt in the H bracket doesn't engage so I was a bit reluctant to use force.

Wait for tomorrow's episode!!

[rcreweread]

John  -  a few things to be aware and careful of :

1. The H frame aluminum can be quite brittle so be very careful trying the prise it in or align it with a screwdriver as a guide, as it will crack easily and many of them are already cracked around the bolt holes in any event .

2. The H frame bolts to a steel bracket which in turn bolts to the botton lip of the metal dash - there are some repro brackets about which don't look like a brilliant copy of the originals - I suppose it's conceivable that these ones could be a bit "deeper" and hence exacerbate your problem., but if so, you should be able to file out the mounting holes to fit.

3. The whole arrangement ( ie the Alloy H frame and the steel (radio) bracket) is often very tight to start with - I had the same problem on my TR4 and ended up having to use 2 bottle jacks on blocks, either side of the dash, bearing onto lengths of 2"x2" on the lower lip of the dash to spread the load - it took quite a lot of jacking to get the assembly to fit, but once done, it really does strengthen the whole bulkhead significantly.

Good luck - go carefully and it will work!

Cheers Rich

[ctc77965o]

30 minutes ago, rcreweread said:

having to use 2 bottle jacks on blocks, either side of the dash, bearing onto lengths of 2"x2" on the lower lip of the dash to spread the load - it took quite a lot of jacking to get the assembly to fit, but once done, it really does strengthen the whole bulkhead significantly.

I have done same.
This H frame is structural-you will notice a large reduction in scuttle shake once it is solidly attached.

[stu50uk]

10 hours ago, rcreweread said:

John  -  a few things to be aware and careful of :

1. The H frame aluminum can be quite brittle so be very careful trying the prise it in or align it with a screwdriver as a guide, as it will crack easily and many of them are already cracked around the bolt holes in any event .

2. The H frame bolts to a steel bracket which in turn bolts to the botton lip of the metal dash - there are some repro brackets about which don't look like a brilliant copy of the originals - I suppose it's conceivable that these ones could be a bit "deeper" and hence exacerbate your problem., but if so, you should be able to file out the mounting holes to fit.

3. The whole arrangement ( ie the Alloy H frame and the steel (radio) bracket) is often very tight to start with - I had the same problem on my TR4 and ended up having to use 2 bottle jacks on blocks, either side of the dash, bearing onto lengths of 2"x2" on the lower lip of the dash to spread the load - it took quite a lot of jacking to get the assembly to fit, but once done, it really does strengthen the whole bulkhead significantly.

Good luck - go carefully and it will work!

Cheers Rich

Thanks for the tips Rich.

I have to fit a H frame to my 1964 TR4 as it came without one. I hit a pothole on a run and it has cracked my windscreen in the middle.

I have obtained two H frames. One from a TR4 and another from a TR4A. I will send them for cleaning up and painting/covering as required and fit them later.

[ianc]

The sidescreen TRs always suffered from scuttle shake, but Triumph (largely) overcame the problem with the TR4 by including the H frame and securing it to the dashboard.

I have to lift the dashboard slightly on my TR4 to get the top bolts into position, so I don't fully tighten the bolts at the feet of the H frame until I have got the top bolts in and the nuts on.  Then, I bolt the feet down hard, followed by the top bolts.

Ian Cornish

[rcreweread]

1 hour ago, stu50uk said:

Thanks for the tips Rich.

I have to fit a H frame to my 1964 TR4 as it came without one. I hit a pothole on a run and it has cracked my windscreen in the middle.

I have obtained two H frames. One from a TR4 and another from a TR4A. I will send them for cleaning up and painting/covering as required and fit them later.

FWIW, I fitted the 4A H frame set up to my 4 when I first rebuilt it, but was never really happy with it, so changed it back to the basic TR4 H frame without the bit around the gear lever - personally I think it goes better with the simplicity of the TR4 white dash and hence looks better, so it's now staying.

Also be aware if you use the 4A one with some of the repro tunnels, it can be a very, very tight fit to get the H frame feet down onto the floor to be bolted in - this is particularly so if you have thick carpets and underlay - not nearly such an issue in a 4 with the basic H frame. If you can't get the feet onto the floor, you will have an almost impossible job getting the top to fit!

Cheers Rich

Cheers Rich

[John Mellor]

Hi, I've lined up the bolt holes from the dash and the metal plate ( facia board ) by bending the flange on the plate. The H bridge remains vertical; I suppose the stiffening function of the arrangement is somewhat reduced but the chance of cracking the H bridge much reduced - hopefully so is the scuttle shake

Thanks for the contributions. John M

[Waldi]

Also ensure there is no carpet etc between the H-frame and the floor.

Waldi

[lynchpin]

Hi 

My 4 developed an annoying clonking especially when going down kerbs or other uneven ground, checked steering column, suspension, rack and engine mounts and just about everything else, finally checked and tightened the top bolts of the H frame to dash which had come quite loose, the difference it made was incredible, noise and rattle gone and body/scuttle now much stiffer, its surprising how you don't notice things getting worse over time..

                  Phil..