boxofbits Posted November 7, 2022 Report Share Posted November 7, 2022 (edited) I would say any ‘risk’ is inherent in the relationship between the moment arm of the ramps v the base. The total weight is not relevant I don’t think as it is a 3000kg unit. So will the heaviest end of the vehicle when on the ramp, being the weight x extended leverage have any detrimental effect over the ratio of ramps to base, since the heaviest end of the vehicle could now be further away from the centre? I think provided the base is extended slightly if possible and bolted down firmly into the concrete floor it should be okay. Kevin Edited November 7, 2022 by boxofbits Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted November 7, 2022 Report Share Posted November 7, 2022 An outfit local to me is offering this (too?) simple single scissor lift arrangement https://pont-elevateur-mobile.fr/pont-elevateur-ciseaux-1m40/ It’s in French of course but the dimensions etc are easily understood - as is the price. I like the idea - it’s getting more and more of an effort to get underneath my 3A -but I’m leery of the safety factor as in balance. Discuss james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted November 7, 2022 Report Share Posted November 7, 2022 1 hour ago, Trumpy said: Removed as upside down Have you tried turning the images upside down before posting. ? - - - Well done on extending the ramps. I'd rate it a success. It appears from your earlier photo that the original (green) lift beams similarly bend, unless that's a distortion from the camera lenses. But that's OK, because most structural materials distort under load (it's just that very often we do not notice it or else it's too small an amount to perceive). If it didn't - the structure would be prone to crack at localised stress points (as is often evident in brick walls over windows and doors). There would of a problem if your channel sections bent locally (creasing near the ends of the green ramp or where the flanges have been cut away), whereas the bend in yours appear to be reasonably evenly distributed along their length ..which tells us that the stresses are likewise being distributed pretty evenly ..because the side flanges are doing their job. Through bolting the channels, around about the centre (measured longitudinally), through the green ramp beam underneath - will help your channels from bowing up in the middle, and this in turn will minimise the localised bend where the flange had to be cut away. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted November 7, 2022 Report Share Posted November 7, 2022 I like that Dave and with its minimal size it looks as if you could leave the car parked on it at all times, helpful if one only has a single garage as many do. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy Posted November 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2022 Hi Paul That is the idea , to park the car on the ramp . I would really like a 4 poster but it would swallow up the whole garage . I plan to add a little extra support where it’s needed and then a coat of paint. And then get my new drive shafts fitted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted November 8, 2022 Report Share Posted November 8, 2022 Looks great but only a distant dream for those of us who have to rent cramped, sometimes damp, unsecure and crumbling lock-ups from occasionally Rackman-type landlords. One day though, one day...and I will know what to install! Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eddie Cairns Posted November 13, 2022 Report Share Posted November 13, 2022 On 10/31/2022 at 9:44 PM, PodOne said: Hi Eddie Thanks for all the advice! So happens the house consumer unit sits in the garage. It's also split given the load and multiple ring circuits for the house as I like everything split. If I was to get a scissor lift I think I'd put it on a separate consumer unit/supply even though the cable run to the lift would be quite short. That way it keeps the Mrs's happy as hopefully there would be no tripping out. Just need a nice exhibition discount plus my brother wants one which might help. Andy The only issue I have with your idea is with two different isolating switches available. Someone could work on the wiring in the future and only notice one consumer unit. Switch that off and the circuit they are working on could be live. I have done that in the past but did not get an electrical shock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted November 13, 2022 Report Share Posted November 13, 2022 3 hours ago, Eddie Cairns said: The only issue I have with your idea is with two different isolating switches available. Someone could work on the wiring in the future and only notice one consumer unit. Switch that off and the circuit they are working on could be live. I have done that in the past but did not get an electrical shock. Hi Eddie If the incoming supply tails to the house are looped again out of one of the existing consumer unit to another dedicated 16amp supply to the ramp it would be completely independent of everything else so they could be safely worked upon if needed. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy Posted November 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2022 Or just get a ramp that only requires a 13 amp supply. Just plug it in , simples ! Never had an issue with mine , although I’m not lifting any where near the ramps max capacity. I assume a ramp requiring a 16 amp supply would have a larger motor / hydraulic pump to lift the ramps more quickly. Maybe a consideration in a busy tyre fitters but not in my diy garage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy Posted November 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2022 As an update to the ramp conversion (things are a bit on hold at the moment tho’). BUT I have learned . The 5mm plate used for the ramps is not quite sufficient if it is to be merely laid on top of the existing ramps , as with those with the sunken ramps . I would go to 6 or probably 8 mm to be sure it won’t bow or twist . If the side flanges were upright( facing upwards) it would be substantially stronger but as previously said it isn’t as good to work on . With the side flanges facing downwards they can flex and allow the ramp to bow. I have bolted the new ramps extensions to the existing ramp centrally ( have to be careful that the nuts don’t foul the frame when lowered) . This helps stop the ramp bowing by preventing the middle lifting . Plates welded across from edge to edge of the side flanges helps prevent flexing. I’ve added rubber bump stops at each end so that the ramps are supported when down and land quietly. I’m currently making some brackets to replace the bracing from the drop down entry / exit ramps to give even more support.( I didn’t want to ‘butcher’ these ramps as they may need to go back on one day). I shall post more (upside down) pics as soon as things progress again . Dave . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted November 14, 2022 Report Share Posted November 14, 2022 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 15, 2022 Report Share Posted November 15, 2022 (edited) If you move to thicker material the weight will go up proportionally. If your fabricator could put a fold over flange on the upstands (or downstands if you have them facing down) that would stiffen them significantly. Rgds Ian Edited November 15, 2022 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy Posted November 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2022 Ramps are finished and I’m pretty pleased with the result although I’m letting the paint harden for another day or two before putting the car on . I’ve added frames at each end to replace the extra length and support from the original drop down access ramps and used 6 x 10mm bolts to fix each channel to the original ramp plate . Bump stops at each end support the ramps when down while the car is parked on it . It’s proved to be a slightly bigger job than I anticipated and required some diy fabrication and head scratching but should be worth it . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy Posted November 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2022 3 minutes ago, Trumpy said: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 22, 2022 Report Share Posted November 22, 2022 Now that looks the business Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted November 23, 2022 Report Share Posted November 23, 2022 (edited) 15 hours ago, Trumpy said: Ramps are finished and I’m pretty pleased with the result although I’m letting the paint harden for another day or two before putting the car on . Looks great Bump stops underneath are a nice touch. Just as a tip, regarding the new paint ; If you sprinkle the painted surface with talcum powder before putting the car on the ramp, then the tyres do not stick to the glossy surface nearly as much. This light dusting only needs to be done once when the paint is new. I did this when I painted the garage floor and it made all the difference. Just as a thought, to others who might follow suit.. If you can accept the lowered ramp to be an extra inch or two higher, then the flanges wouldn't have needed to have been cut away to clear the lift's round cross tubes. Also no reinforcement plates. Pete p.s. Honda 125 are great bikes Edited November 23, 2022 by Bfg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy Posted November 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2022 Wow ! Top tip of the day . I’ll try that thanks. Luckily the car is tucked up in a nice dry corn shed at the moment but I’m keen to get it back in the garage asap. Really need to get the garage cleaned up first though . It rained in while I was welding and painting and things have got a bit messed up ! Dave . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy Posted November 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2022 7 hours ago, Bfg said: Looks great Bump stops underneath are a nice touch. Thanks, I thought so . Just as a thought, to others who might follow suit.. If you can accept the lowered ramp to be an extra inch or two higher, then the flanges wouldn't have needed to have been cut away to clear the lift's round cross tubes. Also no reinforcement plates. That’s a good point actually, although it’s nice to have it as low as poss’ . If the channels where lifted up on blocks on the ramp then you would also benefit from the few inches of extra height when the ramp was raised . p.s. Honda 125 are great bikes Honda 125 ? Nice try but no cigar! Dave 7 hours ago, Bfg said: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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