james christie Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 I have just acquired a Revotec fan from a fellow forumite. I’m already running an ancient negative earth Kenlowe pusher fan - with the original mechanical fan removed of course. Am I being over optimistic in hoping that I can fit the Revotec without removing the front apron on my 3A - and without skinning all my knuckles? james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 Wear Boxing gloves !!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 If it’s a puller. Yes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 Revotec do a stainless mount for the sidescreen TR's, it mounts on the engine side of the rad, & picks up on the normal rad fixing points. Yes doable without removing apron. As for whether you can remove your old one without removing apron - I don't know ! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted October 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 (edited) The old one is easy to remove as it’s fitted twixt rad grill and radiator. The kit includes the galvanised brackets (or for an alternative method there are ties that pass through the rad). After these few remarks this is looking positive - even encouraging! I don’t own any boxing gloves james Edited October 25, 2022 by james christie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 Certainly you can fit the new Revotec fan and brackets without the apron off……it’s tight, ensure you have the newer width adjustable fitting kit to ensure the fan doesn’t hit the rad when you tighten everything up. I had issues with the original kit and have to say Revotec were brilliant and developed this new kit as a result. If you have standard horns they will have to come out to give access and the rad needs slackening to allow the bottom support brackets to slide in under the radiator mounting bracket. I think the fan with its bottom bracket attached had to come up from underneath the car, then add the top bracket whilst it’s all loose, finally adjust to ensure the correct clearances from the radiator.(The top bracket uses the same mounts as the radiator stay bars, hence you need the adjustment to ensure these are not under strain and also that the bracket doesn’t bend forwards potentially allowing the fan when running to hit the radiator….mine did, not initially but after a few miles.)All now resolved and have to say it’s a great piece of kit compared to the Kenlowe that I removed. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 2 minutes ago, james christie said: The old one is easy to remove as it’s fitted twixt rad grill and radiator. The kit includes the galvanised brackets (or for an alternative method there are ties that pass through the rad). After these few remarks this is looking positive - even encouraging! I don’t own any boxing gloves james I wouldn’t use the ties, we had a Tr on the LBL where they cut through the radiator tubing, fixed with two pack epoxy metal! The latest brackets are laser cut aluminium. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 Do you have a narrow belt conversion that has replaced the crank extension and long bolt? If so you are away like a bandit. If not you wil find the fan strikes the starting handle dog on the end of the crank bolt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted October 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 Yes, narrow belt conversion from many years ago, alternator, negative earth, no starting handle dawg etc. Yes, I had my doubts on the through rad ties, particularly on an alu rad. core.Thanks for the confirmation. I’m too slow nowadays to be a good bandit………. james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 (edited) Where will the temp sensor go? is it one for the lower hose or do you have a threaded boss on the radiator already. The lower hose type can be a challenge to get at to adjust/set when the engine is running. I aim mine towards the LH wheel arch. Take the wheel off and you can get at it through the LH wheel arch with a long screwdriver. The one screwed in a boss welded to the radiator tank is a shed load easier to get at. Stand by with bits of sponge to go between the radiator core and the fan attachment screw heads that pass through the brackets. Edited October 25, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 I had trouble with the Revotec adjustable sensor, replaced with a 92° "Otter" switch screwed into a stainless bottom hose link pipe. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 57 minutes ago, Lebro said: I had trouble with the Revotec adjustable sensor, replaced with a 92° "Otter" switch screwed into a stainless bottom hose link pipe. Bob Me too. I had two fail before I wised up and fitted a generic non adjustable switch. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 26, 2022 Report Share Posted October 26, 2022 Another vote against using 'Through radiator ties'. I removed mine when I found that they had started to chafe the radiator core and I welded a couple of home made brackets to the radiator frame. And, I have also had the Otter switch in the lower tube fail which is why I now carry a spare. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted October 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2022 I have a fixed temp. switch - I think 92°C - in the stainless steel downpipe for about 15 years, which I shall be using again. I’ll be using the two brackets for fixing the fan. Pete why the necessity for sponge - does it rattle/vibrate? In fact, having had the Kenlowe pusher fan in place with its accessories of over-ride switch and the generic thermo switch (the original Kenlowe top hose switch was a pita) plus having gone to neg earth and thin belt many years ago, all I have to do is to fit the Revotec fan itself - hence my quest for a simple life in not having to remove the apron. james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 26, 2022 Report Share Posted October 26, 2022 1 hour ago, james christie said: I have a fixed temp. switch - I think 92°C - in the stainless steel downpipe for about 15 years, which I shall be using again. I’ll be using the two brackets for fixing the fan. Pete why the necessity for sponge - does it rattle/vibrate? In fact, having had the Kenlowe pusher fan in place with its accessories of over-ride switch and the generic thermo switch (the original Kenlowe top hose switch was a pita) plus having gone to neg earth and thin belt many years ago, all I have to do is to fit the Revotec fan itself - hence my quest for a simple life in not having to remove the apron. james On some radiator cores the heads of the fan attachment bolts touch the core The sponge is to stop any chaffing here between bolt head and core. The fan shroud wants to be as good as touching the core to get a good ‘suck’. Again stick on sponge seal can be used to prevent any chaffing between the shroud edge and core. Or just mount the whole thing 1/2” away from the core without the need for anti chaf foams. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted October 26, 2022 Report Share Posted October 26, 2022 I fixed my fan with the four bolts supplied, through the front of the radiator core. This caused leaks and failure. I sent the radiator away for a new core . When it came back I fitted a long rt.angle strip on each side so no fixings went through the radiator. The fan came with a wide adjustable support which could be fixed to my new strip each side with screws. The thermostat is in the radiator lower pipework and it all works very well. No chaf foams !!! My original belt driven fan is still there , but has been balanced , This all started because an engine builder in Brighton/Hove fitted the liners at different heights causing overheating at any speed above 50 mph. I had the engine rebuilt by Darryl Uprichard and it has been ok for many years. Sorry about the front apron James Good luck Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted October 26, 2022 Report Share Posted October 26, 2022 These photos might help James, the top mount is the new design bracket to stop the fan being too close to the radiator which had been an issue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 26, 2022 Report Share Posted October 26, 2022 11 minutes ago, iain said: These photos might help James, the top mount is the new design bracket to stop the fan being too close to the radiator which had been an issue. Excellent I have marked up where I have placed foam to protect the core. Also required at the bottom fan to bracket mounts, between bolt heads and core Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted October 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2022 I’ve just had a look see at the brackets supplied. They don’t include the ‘lower’ part of the upper bracket on which Pete sticks his foam. Iain, is this the mod. Supplied by Revotec to which you are referring? If this is so, surely the lower bracket needs to be modified as well, else the whole thing will be too low to suit the lower bracket provided? ps Like the sexy green water pump pulley james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 26, 2022 Report Share Posted October 26, 2022 My '3 has the Revotec fan mount, but does not have the vertical extensions shown above. I have had no problems with it as is. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted October 27, 2022 Report Share Posted October 27, 2022 19 hours ago, james christie said: I’ve just had a look see at the brackets supplied. They don’t include the ‘lower’ part of the upper bracket on which Pete sticks his foam. Iain, is this the mod. Supplied by Revotec to which you are referring? If this is so, surely the lower bracket needs to be modified as well, else the whole thing will be too low to suit the lower bracket provided? ps Like the sexy green water pump pulley james Yes James, this is the new style top mount. Peter now has me worried but Ive done about 9000 miles with this set up and cant see any witness marks to suggest its touched the rad. It was with the old top bracket which pulled the outer fan housing out of shape and caused the fan blades to catch the outer shroud of plastic and this to hit the radiator. Iain PS off to put some foam on the bolt heads. PPS The whole engine is that colour from original, apparently it was a Richardson thing, its actually more Atco lawn mower green and doesn't hide oil leaks :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted January 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2023 (edited) Just to add a few jewels of wisdom from experience. It is most definitely not TR weather here in Brittany at the moment, so I set out to fit my Revotec fan. The top bracket was a doddle, then I set to with the bottom one. The usual hassle of removing the radiator guard was encountered but out it came giving slightly better access to the set screws that fix the two rad brackets to the chassis. Theoretically these set screws only need slackening off in order to slide in the legs of the bottom Revotec bracket. But here, all activity and ambition was halted. I have Rack and Pinion steering fitted with brackets welded to the chassis. There is thus no way, but no way, that this bottom bracket can be fitted without removing the radiator first. Soooh, the Revotec is back in its box under the bench awaiting a supplementary reason to remove the front apron and radiator. Fortunately the old Kenlowe still functions perfectly well. It’s just not very pretty. Many thanks for everybody’s contribution. james Edited January 6, 2023 by james christie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 6, 2023 Report Share Posted January 6, 2023 Interesting. I have just ordered the Revingtons R & P conversion (which I assume is what you have) & also have the Revotech fan with bracket. I have to remove the front anyway to fit the conversion, but it does suggest that if we have a future problem with the fans, that they won't be too easy to remove ? Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 6, 2023 Report Share Posted January 6, 2023 20 minutes ago, Lebro said: Interesting. I have just ordered the Revingtons R & P conversion (which I assume is what you have) & also have the Revotech fan with bracket. I have to remove the front anyway to fit the conversion, but it does suggest that if we have a future problem with the fans, that they won't be too easy to remove ? Bob Use longer bolts up from the chassis through the radiator cage nuts. Fit modified brackets to those extended threads rather than clamped below the radiator feet. A while back there was someone who posted on here that they changed their radiator without removing the apron. Did they take the head off or just the front carb and thermo housing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 6, 2023 Report Share Posted January 6, 2023 20 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Use longer bolts up from the chassis through the radiator cage nuts. Fit modified brackets to those extended threads rather than clamped below the radiator feet. A while back there was someone who posted on here that they changed their radiator without removing the apron. Did they take the head off or just the front carb and thermo housing? There are various stories about people taking the rad out like that and TBH I wouldnt even try as its far too easy to snag it on something and even if you got it out then putting it back has the same issues and with the cost of rads again why would you risk it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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