John L Posted June 5, 2022 Report Share Posted June 5, 2022 Have you tried to retorque the head? What torque setting are you using? Mark the nuts, loosen by half a turn then retighten in one movement, see the difference from the first mark. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timpress Posted June 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 9 hours ago, John L said: Have you tried to retorque the head? What torque setting are you using? Mark the nuts, loosen by half a turn then retighten in one movement, see the difference from the first mark. John I did John. 108nm. 4 moved very slightly from original position. No change in boiling. Compression good in all cylinders. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted June 6, 2022 Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 Does your thermostat have an air bleed hole? If it doesn't I'd drill a 3mm hole in the disc to vent air. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timpress Posted June 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 15 minutes ago, Mike C said: Does your thermostat have an air bleed hole? If it doesn't I'd drill a 3mm hole in the disc to vent air. It does. I actually put my old thermostat in as well to ensure that the new one wasnt faulty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 6, 2022 Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 I'd jack up the front wheels and see if that helps dispel an air-lock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trchris Posted June 7, 2022 Report Share Posted June 7, 2022 To remove the " is it or isn't it a air lock " conundrum remove the heater valve fill the head from here replace and top up radiator just above fins, remove thermostat and then run if problem still exists then you need to look deeper . Did you have the radiator properly flushed ? and not with a garden hose either professionally I mean, is the water pump new ? then you need to maybe think of removing the head and checking I'm afraid Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timpress Posted June 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2022 Thought I’d update all on the engine boiling over woes. Glad to say it’s now fixed! Back flushed the radiator with an air driven flushing tool and filled the radiator as per the various helpful comments and also fitted the correct red fan. Runs correct temperatures now with no boiling over. need to get it running sweet now but that’s for another thread. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted June 11, 2022 Report Share Posted June 11, 2022 Very good Tim. Glad that little hurtle is taken! Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted June 11, 2022 Report Share Posted June 11, 2022 14 hours ago, timpress said: Thought I’d update all on the engine boiling over woes. Glad to say it’s now fixed! Back flushed the radiator with an air driven flushing tool and filled the radiator as per the various helpful comments and also fitted the correct red fan. Runs correct temperatures now with no boiling over. need to get it running sweet now but that’s for another thread. And how did you fill the system in the end? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timpress Posted June 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2022 1 hour ago, ntc said: And how did you fill the system in the end? Filled it Through the thermostat housing without thermostat in, connected thermostat housing and filled radiator and then blew through top hose with sealey coolent flush gun. Filled overflow bottle halfway. Ran car without cap on and observed very good fluid circulation. It burped and water level raised and lowered as expected. Put thermostat in when it cooled, Topped up and put cap on. All appears good now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted June 17, 2022 Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 On 6/3/2022 at 2:46 PM, timpress said: I had the CR block decked but the recesses were not machined back in and am using the unrecessed flat silver gasket from Rimmers. Are there alternatives that maybe better? . I did a compression test and all cylinders were between 175 and 185 so good there. I have retorqued the head down to 108nm and will give another run tomorrow. I do have water flow with cap off but will get and fit another pump as it’s an easy job along with a new radiator. Then it is literally all I can do and replace and I will need specialist help. Disappointing when it’s so close to being on the road. By machining off the recesses you are now forced to use an inferior design gasket that was originally used on the CP engines. The reason that it was designed out was of its poor sealing qualities which also affected the saloon cars with warranty claims. The CR gasket was designed to work with the modified block and cylinder head using fire ring design from formula 1 cars of the day. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted June 18, 2022 Report Share Posted June 18, 2022 Payen is often recommended on here. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted June 23, 2022 Report Share Posted June 23, 2022 On 6/8/2022 at 12:16 AM, trchris said: Did you have the radiator properly flushed ? and not with a garden hose either professionally I mean trchris was on the money. Just sayin' Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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