John McCormack Posted January 24, 2022 Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 My daily driver heater core is very badly corroded and unrepairable. I'm considering a Moss core but they aren't cheap especially with delivery here. What are the options? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted January 24, 2022 Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 (edited) I spent a long time looking for well-priced supplier for a replacement heater matrix, in the end I think saved a fiver! perhaps your existing one could be repaired by an alternative rad-shop. Hope you have better luck than I did ……. Andy Edited January 24, 2022 by AndyR100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 24, 2022 Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 (edited) There are a couple of complete replacement ones from the likes of T7. https://www.t7design.co.uk/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-with-side-vents-12v-187-d1e-05a.html This is the type I am about to fit in my car. They require a fitting kit. Revington does a complete kit that comes with fittings at 3 times the price. https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr1395k/name/kit-heater-upgrade-tr2-3b I have bought and fitted full assemblies and just the core from Clayton. https://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/heaters/triumph/ annd the whole assembly. https://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/circular-heaters/ image of Smiths original to T7. Unit Edited January 24, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 24, 2022 Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 Go for the T7 if your not worried about originality its more efficient and smaller so theres more room behind the dash. https://www.t7design.co.uk/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-with-side-vents-12v-187-d1e-05a.html I make my own brackets as the Revington kit is expensive. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted January 24, 2022 Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 Hi - any competent general radiator rebuilding company should be able to recore your existing unit Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 24, 2022 Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 9 minutes ago, rcreweread said: Hi - any competent general radiator rebuilding company should be able to recore your existing unit Cheers Rich Not a skill I have found in UK which is why we went with the Clayton replacement core Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted January 24, 2022 Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 Peter - OK, I stand to be corrected but I'm sure that's what my local radiator reconditioning company told me - unfortunately, I can't check with them as they shut up shop for good at Christmas. However I have found another firm a bit further away ( Sheldrake and Wells in Ipswich) who I will shortly be visiting with some OE TR4A rads for recoring so will ask them then - I'll take along one as an example and let you know what they say. Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted January 24, 2022 Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 Plymouth Radiators are good too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 24, 2022 Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 2 hours ago, rcreweread said: Peter - OK, I stand to be corrected but I'm sure that's what my local radiator reconditioning company told me - unfortunately, I can't check with them as they shut up shop for good at Christmas. However I have found another firm a bit further away ( Sheldrake and Wells in Ipswich) who I will shortly be visiting with some OE TR4A rads for recoring so will ask them then - I'll take along one as an example and let you know what they say. Cheers Rich I suspect they will take one look at the way its constructed and say no. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted January 24, 2022 Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 (edited) This company, NRG, appear to offer a Clayton replacement for the Smiths circular type. They still have the original tooling to make these in copper, originally manufactured in the 1950’s as per many cars and bus cabs of the era. I note some have mentioned the Clayton version but not this particular company. https://radiator-repair.co.uk/classic-vintage/classic-vintage-heaters/ Kevin Edited January 24, 2022 by boxofbits Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted January 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 (edited) 6 hours ago, stuart said: I suspect they will take one look at the way its constructed and say no. Stuart. I've tried two in Sydney and they said there was no chance they could do it economically. Mine is corroded through in numerous places. I've tried various epoxy type products in the radiator water which work for a month or so but then it springs a leak in a new spot. Edited January 24, 2022 by John McCormack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted January 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 12 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: There are a couple of complete replacement ones from the likes of T7. https://www.t7design.co.uk/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-with-side-vents-12v-187-d1e-05a.html This is the type I am about to fit in my car. They require a fitting kit. Revington does a complete kit that comes with fittings at 3 times the price. https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr1395k/name/kit-heater-upgrade-tr2-3b I have bought and fitted full assemblies and just the core from Clayton. https://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/heaters/triumph/ annd the whole assembly. https://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/circular-heaters/ image of Smiths original to T7. Unit A very useful post indeed, thank you. I was initially thinking of the T7 but the lack of a fan control and the nuisance of making the fittings etc gave me pause for thought. I have emailed Claytons to get a price for their replacement heater core. In the absence of a better option, it will be one of these two. It is the height of summer here so an ideal time to replace the knackered heater. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 24, 2022 Report Share Posted January 24, 2022 1 minute ago, John McCormack said: A very useful post indeed, thank you. I was initially thinking of the T7 but the lack of a fan control and the nuisance of making the fittings etc gave me pause for thought. I have emailed Claytons to get a price for their replacement heater core. In the absence of a better option, it will be one of these two. It is the height of summer here so an ideal time to replace the knackered heater. Have you got the heater out yet? Does the fan blow ok? Think about looking at the fan motor. Minimum you should do while it is accessible is lubricate the top and bottom bearings properly. Worth taking the motor to bits too if you are confident and cleaning and polishing the commutator. Be really careful not to break the Bakelite internal base plate the wiring and brushes attach to, as they are very delicate. The brushes may need replacing but only worry about that when you see them. Clayton supply a motor, you would need to confirm with them if it is a direct replacement for your existing one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted January 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 3 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Have you got the heater out yet? Does the fan blow ok? Think about looking at the fan motor. Minimum you should do while it is accessible is lubricate the top and bottom bearings properly. Worth taking the motor to bits too if you are confident and cleaning and polishing the commutator. Be really careful not to break the Bakelite internal base plate the wiring and brushes attach to, as they are very delicate. The brushes may need replacing but only worry about that when you see them. Clayton supply a motor, you would need to confirm with them if it is a direct replacement for your existing one. Again good info. I replaced the motor some years ago with a modern one. It should be fine but will check while it is out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Teher Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 I recently bought this handcrafted radiator and it works perfectly. I am sure that any craftsman will be able to do the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikej Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 Clayton replacement (the finned coil type) fitted a few years ago. Billiant, well over twice the heat output and fast to get hot. Transformed the car, needs no modifications and looks right. I did have a rattle from the element-case which was fixed with a small rubber pad poked in behind one of the 3 clips - should have checked before I installed it. Looked at some second hand Landy heaters as the cores on one model are the same but, as with any 60 year old radiator, they were hopeless. Clogged up with paper-thin water tubes. I beleive Clayton made the original heater for Smiths who addded the motor. MikeJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 10 hours ago, John McCormack said: A very useful post indeed, thank you. I was initially thinking of the T7 but the lack of a fan control and the nuisance of making the fittings etc gave me pause for thought. I have emailed Claytons to get a price for their replacement heater core. In the absence of a better option, it will be one of these two. It is the height of summer here so an ideal time to replace the knackered heater. For the T7 You can use your original heater rheostat to control the fan and the fittings as you can see from my picture are just two pieces of 20mm x3mm bar bent up to suit and bolted to the dash support brackets, a lot easier to fit than the original. Plus you have the bonus of a whole lot more room behind the dash. Its the same output as the Clayton and so much cheaper too. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted January 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 50 minutes ago, stuart said: For the T7 You can use your original heater rheostat to control the fan and the fittings as you can see from my picture are just two pieces of 20mm x3mm bar bent up to suit and bolted to the dash support brackets, a lot easier to fit than the original. Plus you have the bonus of a whole lot more room behind the dash. Its the same output as the Clayton and so much cheaper too. Stuart. Sounds convincing! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 25 minutes ago, John McCormack said: Sounds convincing! Its why we fit them. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 (edited) 4 hours ago, stuart said: Its why we fit them. Stuart. 4 hours ago, stuart said: Its why we fit them. Stuart. It is why I have gone that way too. My only gripe is that the vents will not fully rotate when fully open. The inner bit strikes the fan case. Moving the fan outside the case gets rid of that problem but makes the heater bigger by 1 1/2”. I have now made a couple of adaptor sleeves to move the vents away from the case enough to allow the fan to be repositioned back inside the case. Stuart. Does the LH demist tube get horribly close to the glove box on RHD cars the way you have installed? I currently have no glove box to test. I notice T7 sell a raft of outlet vents and adaptors in the HVAC section I am thinking of adding another closeable vent in the big plate, that would add more draught to the footwells. Edited January 25, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 I found this page a while ago. Full details about how to make your own core. I would guess £25-£50 in materials. http://www.damtp.cam.ac.uk/user/cm214/forum_pics/heater.pdf Charlie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 17 minutes ago, Charlie D said: I found this page a while ago. Full details about how to make your own core. I would guess £25-£50 in materials. http://www.damtp.cam.ac.uk/user/cm214/forum_pics/heater.pdf Charlie Good article. restore the flaps too with replacement creamy white handles. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281616447610?hash=item4191a5f87a:g:gP4AAOSwUV9WpAVK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: It is why I have gone that way too. My only gripe is that the vents will not fully rotate when fully open. The inner bit strikes the fan case. Moving the fan outside the case gets rid of that problem but makes the heater bigger by 1 1/2”. I have now made a couple of adaptor sleeves to move the vents away from the case enough to allow green fan to be repositioned back inside the case. Stuart. Does the LH demist tube get horribly close to the glove box on RHD cars the way you have installed? I currently have no glove box to test. I notice T7 sell a raft of outlet vents and adaptors in the HVAC section I am thinking of adding another closeable vent in the big plate, that would add more draught to the footwells. No it works fine if you just offset the unit slightly. Stuart. Edited January 25, 2022 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 9 minutes ago, stuart said: No it works fine if you just offset the unit slightly. Stuart. Thanks Stuart. Offset it will be, but not so much as I cannot operate the side nozzle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 1 minute ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Thanks Stuart. Offset it will be, but not so much as I cannot operate the side nozzle. If you look at my picture you can see its offset to the right to clear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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