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  1. Don't know if this is true for all boxes but after the (very sensible) dip stick/filler hole was discontinued the casting boss remained. It is fairly easy to bore the hole and fit a dip stick from and early car and hole in the tunnel cover too. MikeJ
  2. Can post pictures. Mike
  3. Fitted a servo, brakes now are outstanding. Same mid to a disk and drum TR had the same effect. Re engineer the brackets supplied by Moss and it fits very snugly in the space above the Ewarts tap with no impact on access to oily parts of the engine!
  4. We have an article on electronic regulators in the next TR Action, as Rob implies, adjusting the voltage regulator (control box) is not for the faint hearted and needs some specific types of test equipment. It is all in the workshop manual split in two places. My experience with new ones is all bad and I would suggest scrounging a used one from someone who has changed to an Alternator. MikeJ
  5. If unavailable they can be 3D printed for a small donation!
  6. Well, when a rad re-coring company in Essex re-cored my TR3's radiator it also came back with the Coventry Radiator's soldered-on plates missing. I was told that they and others had been threatened with legal action by a Dagenham based company for falsely implying the OEM. They could not fight the corporate and decided to remove all OEM badges from that point on. I have since removed two such badges from a scrappy and will solder them on next time the read is out! Madness. MikeJ
  7. Else, ask someone with a lathe to slim down a 1/2" drive socket. Will still be strong enough to do these bolts very tight.
  8. Is this a potential safety issue, seems like it may be? MJ
  9. The window and seal can move about when fitting/removing the top so I'd not be inclined to stick it. Let it settle and fit it when on the car. I used Captain Tolley's creeping crack cure (no, really it does exist!) To seal the bottom to the window and the U trim around the bottom to stop water bring absorbed by the head lining. Good for front screen to, amazing stuff.
  10. All yours, glad to send it to a good home. Bill Piggot found my car in this edition during one of his searches for member's cars and it just so happened it was in this important issue. MikeJ
  11. I have a spare May 1957 Motor Sport magazine. It's the one with the visit to the Coventry factory when TR3s were being made and including a picture of SHP520 with Nancy Mitchell. Perfect condition, £1 plus postage (Picture of my TR for sale in the adverts, but I only need one copy hence the sale) MikeJ mike.g8ejn@hotmail.co.uk
  12. Interesting device. A coincidence, but in the next TRA I have submitted an article on tank breathing - as part of a mission to keep water out. If you have a tank cap with a breather hole (as later TRs) then the original breather can be blocked off or removed and plugged. I can't think of one good reason not to! Mine was plugged 25 years ago on advice from another member with the same fuel smell issues. MikeJ
  13. A previous Forum post of mine liberated much help on recovering the hard top and how to identify MK1 from MK2s etc. Glue used is AF178 and Union covering - both from Woollies who were most helpful. Don’t use ordinary contact adhesive – spreading it with a bank card worked well – a foot or so at a time. New anti-drum spring works reasonably well, I have supplier detail somewhere if needed. Made paper templates first. MikeJ
  14. Notwithstanding the fact that a sealant is not needed for petrol pipe connections within a TR, this is the reply from Heldite: “Thankyou for your query, while we have not tested our Heldite Jointing Compound in conjunction with E-10 fuel, anecdotal information we have would suggest that they are compatible. For more information, please visit www.rustins.co.uk/rustins “
  15. Clayton replacement (the finned coil type) fitted a few years ago. Billiant, well over twice the heat output and fast to get hot. Transformed the car, needs no modifications and looks right. I did have a rattle from the element-case which was fixed with a small rubber pad poked in behind one of the 3 clips - should have checked before I installed it. Looked at some second hand Landy heaters as the cores on one model are the same but, as with any 60 year old radiator, they were hopeless. Clogged up with paper-thin water tubes. I beleive Clayton made the original heater for Smiths who addde
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