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mikej

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    mike.g8ejn@yahoo.com
  1. I also have a chrome plated steel one. It gets slightly warm on very hot days but never an issue. The slip-on ones slip-off. Mine was made by another group member in the '80s, so I assume that they can be re-made from Delrin or similar. Probably an easy 3D printer project although the thread may need cutting. 1/2" BSP? Mike
  2. Hi Brian, just happens I went through this a few years ago, A not-clean oil -filler cap filter increases pressure and can cause top nut and main gasket leaks. Mine did anyway. I sorted a head where someone had used roll-pins to secure the rocker shaft collars. This caused oil to squirt about and lowered oil feed. Ensure they are Mills pins. Red fiberlite washers under steel washers under both nyloc stud nuts should not normally leak. (I I don't think they need to be red!) Cheers, Mike
  3. Ethanol requires more ignition advance but how much is an open question when we don't know what % is in any batch of fuel. I think there is a need to collect some TR ignition data and I have a cunning plan well, more of a vision! The standard fan is fairly ineffective at very low car speeds and at idle, it just drifts air past the radiator and at high speed, it gets in the way as the incoming air is faster above <>50mph None of this mattered much in the old days but it does now. An electric fan is the way to go. The starter crank hole in the rad is not just a hole, it blocks the tubes above and below it. Maybe 20% loss of cooling area, a rad without it is way better (sorry!) I'm a keep-it-standard person but the fan and hole-less rad became essential for touring. James' comment about water, ethanol being hygroscopic, is an interesting one. I don't think we know too much about fuel with water and its effect on vaporisation. I'll ask Paul. Mike
  4. Flat spring can be made from a hack-saw blade. Just need a small grinder to shape and remove the teeth!
  5. Have you tried lagging the fuel pipe from the pump? Moving this pipe to the rear of the engine does help keep the fuel cool. Why do you want to change the water pump, is the engine temperature over the normal maximum? If all is well with a standard engine and radiator then a standard pump should work fine. Be very wary of pumps that spin too fast and/or have any sharp edges on the impeller else it will cavitate. Even micro bubbles from an over enthusiastic pump will reduce the water's thermal mass and so it's ability to cool. I assume the link pipe between the carbs is on top, not below the carbs as some side-screen cars were. It'd be interesting to know what % of Ethanol is in your petrol. Else, increasing (or not obstructing) cool air over the carbs is probably the way. ANY lamps or badges in front of the grille do reduce air flow by making it more turbulent and less conductive as it passes through the fins. The four-vent bonnets release more hot air but let more rain water in! Mike
  6. That's my understanding too, they are not reversible and are profiled to suit the rocker shaft studs. I also can't think of a good reason why the filler was moved aft other than to miss the lower front hinging TR4 bonnet and be easier to get at. It's very close to the bonnet on a side screen car, mine still has evidence of a dent from the days when the body mounts had rotted away.
  7. Hi, Important you know that the curve you have selected is right for your cam and compression ratio and that vacuum advance is needed with this distributor. Pinking (the metallic clicking sound when engine is working hard) is destructive, if nothing else, retard the static setting until it stops. Mike
  8. Phil, reaming the bushes is normal, use an adjustable parallel reamer if you can. You may want to check the diameter of the mating pin to ensure it is not over-size, the last set of new trunnions I bought were dimensionally challenged! Cheers, Mike
  9. My only additional contribution to Richard's great list is that you be very suspicious of any modification from standard, important to know who did it with a check of their expertise. Dampers, steering, Over-Drive and brake conversions - great if done expertly but a dangerous & expensive business if not! Cheers Mike
  10. Graham, putting aside cable current capacity, it is possible to retain the regulator and associated generator wiring if you want apparent originality. Remove of all the regulator entrails and add two links under the terminals. The space inside can be used for spares/tools/alarms etc. With a standard loom, H4 Halogens and a Pacit fan I have continued to use my standard wiring loom (c. 1978 from C& with and ACR17 alternator. I did the math at the time and concluded the cables were all up to it without relays etc. That was >20 years ago and all has been OK. I can post the regulator mods if interested, although if you are going to run several kW of lighting this may not be for you! MIke
  11. Hi Jim, Yes, this would make a great article and support another one that's in the funnel. I have a couple of questions and a request, could you ping me at Technical@tr-register.co.uk? Regards, Mike
  12. I (so we) have had contact from an organisation who claim to have experienced an increasing number of seriously over stiff Armstrong shocks recently fitted to TRs - so stiff that the splines are stripping with obvious concerns for chassis integrity. Is this a subject that already has wheels under it? Mike Jennings
  13. My own experience is that the e-fan resolved over heating when stationary on hot days and improved warm-up on cold ones. The 'standard' fan actually impedes air flow above 50mph and allegedly liberates 1HP when removed!. Fan can be fitted without removing the front but it's a knuckle scraping experience. My Pacit fits snugly between the rad and a Revington thin belt conversion. Only issue has been alternator pulleys working loose, not sure aluminium is the best material for these. go for it! Mike
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