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mikej

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    mike.g8ejn@yahoo.com

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  1. As something of a purist, I wonder why you would consider fitting a TR7 box! The gearing and Overdrive of a standard gear box is such that it suits the power curve and rev range of the 4cyl engine, the TR7 box does not. If the standard gear box is in good condition and fitted with a 3 bearing (modified) lay shaft then it should be OK! or am I missing something?
  2. There are two "top hat" shaped black rubber seals between the float chamber and the carb main body. These can become soft due to fuel attacking the rubber. When soft they squash and extend up the securing bolt until the small cross drilled hole (where the petrol flows though the the bolt) becomes blocked. Worth a check but if you have fuel in the float chamber this may not be the cause. Remove the SU piston pot (3 screws) and remove the piston. You should be able to see fuel in the jet, just below the top surface. Have you done a compression check? With the spark plugs in and yo
  3. A few advantages to removing the vent, fitting a plug to its banjo tank connection and then drilling a 1/6" hole in the filler cap plate. - No overflow on corners - No petrol fumes in the garage and (and so safer). - It's the light fractions "the good stuff" that vents/syphons out as the ambient temperature cycles, fuel will stay volatile longer. - Nice bit of copper pipe to use for something else! - Leave the hole and grommit in the boot floor, it helps it ventilate. MJ
  4. Agree they look a bit short although a couple of mine are like that. While re-facing the cone part on some otherwise good splines I did notice that the original forged spline hubs were a tad thicker than new ones from Moss, but this this should have resulted in longer studs... They were often cut down with a hack saw and too short for fear of fouling the wheel but there should be room for a couple of threads showing. MJ
  5. Important to use Genuine Lucas or reliably Lucas specification fuses and NOT ones from non-automotive sources. See my article in TRA for an explanation!
  6. Yes indeed if it's available but R9 is not withdrawnand still suitable. I'd realy like to know why some ancient fuel hoses with no specification marks at all are behaving realy well whilst others of the same vintage (ie., the ones on my wife's Mini), have gone all soggy. MJ
  7. There is a quote from Triumph somewhere, they felt that a single light fault should not take out all the lights as this was even more dangerous (than a fire?). Perhaps fuse boxes were very expensive to add? MJ
  8. I'd avoid Viton-A now and specifically ask for Viton-F. My industry experience was that the issue with seals (lip seals in particular) was that they can fail when the ethanol content continually changes (i.e. none on one delivery and 10% the next) - it causes the material to keep changing its absorption level and so its swelling. This probably applies to hoses and definitely to 'O' rings. MJ
  9. Would it be OK to use parts of this session in an article for TRA about the hydraulic brake light switches? The solution from RobH has the most originality sympathy I have seen. Just one question though, how is the piston shaft rod's slack adjusted? Does the swtich take the full load of a released peddal? My orginal Lucas switch (I do believe it was the original one fited in 1955) finaly failed 3 years ago. The replacement failed after 9 months and it's replacement from a deliberately different OEM failed this year. I have sectioned them on a mill and the result is that thesee modern repl
  10. A LUCAS tube fuse, as fitted by Triumph, will blow at the stated rating or up to 20% less (faster) for a dead short. A 20A rated fuse should over-load blow at about 20A or at about 17A for an immediate dead short. An SAE blade type fuse is rated for the normal maximum current and will typically blow at a much higher value. A 20A rated fuse will blow at about 30-35A. Guidance seems to be that when substituting a Blade for a Lucas fuse that a rated value of 40% less is advisable. Often hear of fuse blowing issues resolved by using blade fuses but it may be because they have inadvertant
  11. You may want to specify ethanol resistant SAE R9 hoses while you are about it, I think RTR sell it as probably do other suppliers.
  12. There was a full missive on this very subject, I may be able to find it if I knew who for!
  13. Thanks Bob, looking at my TR4 spare - the grip is indeed not screwed on. I have a nice chrome screw-on grip, one of many made by a Register member 30+years ago. PS..Moss have now issued a Credit Memo (what every that is) so implicitly acknowledging that the supplied rack was wrong.
  14. Air lock very possible, the mechanical pumps are transfer pumps with little "lift" ability. If it runs OK now then your Ewarts petrol tap has not failed, yet! MikeJ
  15. Carbon filled electrical contact grease, else copper loaded electrical contact grease (Farnell et al). Stress, "electrical contact grease", not copper-slip as used on wheel nuts and splines. MikeJ
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