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mikej

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    mike.g8ejn@yahoo.com

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  1. There was a full missive on this very subject, I may be able to find it if I knew who for!
  2. Thanks Bob, looking at my TR4 spare - the grip is indeed not screwed on. I have a nice chrome screw-on grip, one of many made by a Register member 30+years ago. PS..Moss have now issued a Credit Memo (what every that is) so implicitly acknowledging that the supplied rack was wrong.
  3. Air lock very possible, the mechanical pumps are transfer pumps with little "lift" ability. If it runs OK now then your Ewarts petrol tap has not failed, yet! MikeJ
  4. Carbon filled electrical contact grease, else copper loaded electrical contact grease (Farnell et al). Stress, "electrical contact grease", not copper-slip as used on wheel nuts and splines. MikeJ
  5. Ralph raises a key concern, if the Commission plate has been removed from the body then it would have been for a reason and it's resonable to assume that it is fixed to another car. Are the two brass number plates still fitted above the battery box? If these are gone too then buy a scrap car with a Commission number and make a good car from both!
  6. I think this is the car Andrew had when an Essex Group member, looking for a picture but most of them not scanned in and in heaps in a wardrobe!
  7. Reported and now in the post. Another owner said he had reported it but had not returned it for some reason and did not get a refund. A quick scan of the parts books: Ratchet : 107631 is in BOTH TR2-3 and TR4 parts books. (I have an ex-TR4 ratchet and it is indeed the same as my early TR3 part). Pawl : 107632, ditto as Rack. Lever assy : 107637 in BOTH TR2-3 and TR4 parts books BUT another version of lever 131321 fitted to later TR4's. My parts list references a commission number for the change but it's blank. (so, what's the difference and is it relevent?) Importantly
  8. Anyone else had issues with new handbrake ratchet racks from Moss? (this would be TR4 as well) New one jams in the main lever tube at half way and is obviously a smaller radius then the original, teeth in different place, distance between the end holes different etc. Photo is an original bolted to a new one, the new one (top) has a greater arch and it's this that binds with the tuber inner surface. The new pawl is also not identical but works OK with the old rack. Although the engagement pointy bit is cut to a different angle than the rack teeth which presumably means it will wear qu
  9. My day car has a removable tow hook. Turn a lockable catch knob thingy and the hook falls on the other arm, it's very heavy and it hurts! The trailer subject has been complicated (UK) by a change to driving licences, with two subsequent alterations. As well as meeting variously interpreted weights, younger drivers will need to take a test if towing a large trailer (i.e. a car transporter) and us over 70's are default restricted to 3.5t all up weight unless they apply for their licence using a paper form rather than the DVLA web site. The Police are reported to be not accepting a dri
  10. FYI Ralph, initiated by a TR4 member in Germany, we have an article on towing weights in the next TRA. Included are the UK rules as they seem to be, the latest gobbledygook from HMG is not easy to decipher (it's not all in the same place and the Police can have a different view) so I hope it's right! I mention it as we discovered that more EU countries are including a requirement that tow balls must be removed when not in use. Whether or not they enforce is another matter. MikeJ
  11. Only contribution is not to substitute the Square (or thereabouts) canister seal with an 'O' ring. It will slip to one side, and probably not the same side all round. There are two or three seals with a new filter, only one of them is the correct size and it should be a light push fit with a small stick to get it seated. If it is not able to stay seated before the canister is fitted then it's the wrong one! I also had leaks from the bottom square section seal, the only fix is a new one. The oil pressure adjusting screw can leak if the lead seal has been disturbed. I'd thoroughly clea
  12. All are screws, 2BA countersunk with domed head. Chrome plated brass but I used stainless. The threaded part is 20mm long on the top two and 25mm long on the bottom. So 4 short and 2 long. Don't mix 'em up! Mike J
  13. During my sprinting phase our '3 had a catch tank connected to the sump breather (as required by the regs) - I was surprised that some oil accumulated there even during normal motoring. Assume all the TR4 EGR gubbins has been removed and that you are not parked on a steep hill. Also that it is the correct up-n-over breather and not just a right angle pipe.
  14. Robin, I don't have the pictured SAH booklet but do have original typed sheets that they handed out to customers. All their products (including hard tops), part number and prices. Here is the deal (!) I can scan and send to you if you can reciprocate with the one you have! Cheers, Mike
  15. OK thanks, I will play with a pair when I can do some decent journeys. I need to set a base line so I can compare results once E10 is generally available. My gas analyser is only a Halfords and running at 3500 will destroy it! Also, having suffered my first broken crank 2 years ago I don't like revving the engine off-load for prolonged periods.
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