David Solloway Posted October 20, 2021 Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 What’s best advice Guys. Where to position the trolley jack and then the axle stands. might go the hydraulic car ramp route instead? what do you all do? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted October 20, 2021 Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 I think there are details of this in the brown book. Placing the jacks as close to where the wheels are mounted to the chassis is a good idea. I have a hydraulic scissor lift and because of the chassis I run two 2 inch square section steel bars across the lift so I can lift from the chassis close to wheel mounting points. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted October 20, 2021 Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 (edited) Almost anywhere under the chassis is fine. Don't mistake the radiator shield as part of the chassis. Use the diff at the rear with a trolley jack. Jerry Edited October 20, 2021 by jerrytr5 wrong forum! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Solloway Posted October 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 All internet post say don’t use the diff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted October 20, 2021 Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 All ? Why would that be then? It's connected to the chassis and has a cast casing. Are we talking about a TR6? Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted October 20, 2021 Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 Diff is perfectly safe with a TR6 and a quick way of getting both wheels off the ground but if you are worried, jack up using chassis and put an axle stand in .. and repeat on other side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted October 20, 2021 Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 I have used the diff multiple times with no sign of damage. When on its wheels the weight of the rear of the car is carried by the rear springs which tie in the the part of the chassis onto which the front of the diff is mounted. Lifting using the diff would place the lift point slightly further back but shouldnt be too much of an issue? Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
charlie74 Posted October 20, 2021 Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 (edited) As long as the stands are in line laterally with the wheels you wont have trouble with frame flexing and the doors will open and close normally. I’ve never used the differential to lift the rear but if the mounts are in good shape it should be fine. Once I have the front up on stands I place the jack in front of the rear wheel with the cup in the T-shirt area with a piece of wood that goes from side to side of the narrow part of the frame and lift there. It seems to work fine. Edited October 20, 2021 by charlie74 Splelnig Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CP26309 Posted October 20, 2021 Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 As a rule I never jack up one corner, as our original chassis aren't getting any younger or stronger! I use two small hydraulic jacks and lift both together when lifting the front, back or sides of the car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CP26309 Posted October 20, 2021 Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 2 hours ago, jerrytr5 said: All ? Why would that be then? It's connected to the chassis and has a cast casing. Are we talking about a TR6? Jerry Because the two bolts that hang the TR6 diff from the cross brace are known to be weak at those two points ! So why risk straining them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted October 20, 2021 Report Share Posted October 20, 2021 59 minutes ago, CP26309 said: Because the two bolts that hang the TR6 diff from the cross brace are known to be weak at those two points ! So why risk straining them? If all four studs have been reinforced don't see any problems. If not then maybe not. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 When you have lifted the car, these are the stand placement points. Had this on file , provided by another member when i asked the question some time ago... think it was Roger. Z7 Jack Stand Points..docx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Solloway Posted November 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 Thanks Phil, shame it doesn’t show jacking points also Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 I put a piece of 4" x 2" to spread the load under the front cross member jack up and support. Then use two hydraulic jacks in unison to lift the rear, locating the jacks on the chassis where it levels off by the bump stops. If I want the car higher I repeat the process, front then rear. If the cars going be up for a while I leave the wheels on and support on sleepers with chocks ( don't use concrete blocks) also 4 axle stands placed under the chassis for extra safety. Lots of different methods, this is a bit long winded but works for me. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel A Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 This is what I have just done to remove the gearbox Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted November 4, 2021 Report Share Posted November 4, 2021 On 11/2/2021 at 7:56 AM, Nigel A said: This is what I have just done to remove the gearbox My mind is boggling just thinking about how you drove the car up opposing sets of ramps! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel A Posted November 4, 2021 Report Share Posted November 4, 2021 jacked it up in stages and then inserted the ramps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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