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Upgrade to Alloy Hubs


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I have now taken delivery of two alloy hubs (plus bearings etc) to replace the old and original hubs and spline thingy. I think it should be straight forward but as ever the Gods may be against me. Any advice on how best to approach the job. I have spacers to allow for my wire wheels. Thanks, Richard

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Wires are typically attached using splined hubs and knock-ons. These hubs are held on by four relatively short studs (to prevent them interfering with the wires wheels)

If the alloys are not attached using the same mechanism, then most alloys are fitted using 4 longer studs, so you may need to replace the four studs with longer versions to fit the alloys.

Some alloys need spacers to stop them rubbing on the suspension. Spacers are available in multiple thicknesses, and you will need to work out the best options for your alloys.

Although this sounds complicated, it is not too difficult with the right tools. I am not too far away (Marlow) so PM me if you want help.

Good luck

TT

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On 17 February 2020 at 4:19 PM, Parkerscottages said:

I have now taken delivery of two alloy hubs (plus bearings etc) to replace the old and original hubs and spline thingy. I think it should be straight forward but as ever the Gods may be against me. Any advice on how best to approach the job. I have spacers to allow for my wire wheels. Thanks, Richard

Hi Richard

Not clear from your post which type of wheel you intend to use. Are you planning to re-use your wires or fit alloys as per Tony's post above?

Kevin

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Sorry but I read this that Richard is planning to upgrade to the alloy hubs and larger diameter stub axle?

If thats the case then it is  pretty straitforward, hardest part is getting the original stub axle off the taper in the vertical link without bending the link.

John.

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6 hours ago, John Morrison said:

Sorry but I read this that Richard is planning to upgrade to the alloy hubs and larger diameter stub axle?

If thats the case then it is  pretty straitforward, hardest part is getting the original stub axle off the taper in the vertical link without bending the link.

John.

I agree with John!

when i fitted alloy hubs and beefier stub axles it was an easy job, apart from getting the old axles out!

one came out with heat and a big hammer, the other needed a press, 20T i think.

steve
 

image.jpg

Edited by Steves_TR6
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2 hours ago, Steves_TR6 said:

 

one came out with heat and a big hammer, the other needed a press, 20T i think.

 

Just did some recently. Fitted a short pipe over the stub axle then a very heavy washer under the nut (I used a full nut not a castellated) tighten as much as you feel it will take.

From the back, with the VR well supported, place a long thin socket over the threads of the stub axle and into the VR to catch the stub axle body, then hit the socket a good whack.  Just mind your foot!!! :o

I was surprised at how easy they came apart, and I was prepared for the missile the second time :)

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I always use a hot air paint stripper as a first resort when heating components. The heat is applied more evenly than it would be with a naked flame and there is no chance of getting things hot enough to effect the structure of the material. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Happy to report back that I was able to get the stub axles out but only after using an hydraulic press which took about 2 mins to do. Everything else seems to have gone to plan. Now that we are about to have some enforced time at home I think that the TR will benefit from some further attention. Perhaps we could compile a top 10 list of things to do to a TR. I think I will start by stripping my windscreen wiper motor.

Be safe

R

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45 minutes ago, Z320 said:

1st: don't repair anything that ain't broken

2 nd: ......  Don't do anything that doesn't improve safety or performance - Peter W

3rd:

.

.

10 th: don't repair anything that ain't broken

:)

Come on everyone fill 'em in

Peter W

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