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RMP NC

Just Acquired TR4 - Lots to learn

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Success with these cars starts with the condition of the chassis.  Especially the back half.  A tell tale sign is doors that don't fit properly.

 

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A local oil change/ tire shop was moving shops and had a 80s era lift for $800.  Got it and installed.  It's great but what a pain to de-install, move and install.  Now it's the fight for what car is on it and shifting them about.  I was not looking for another project when I found this TR4.  But TR4 is one of my "if I ever get a chance I want one" cars and I had to get it.  Too many rebuilds in the works. I fell in love with my uncle's TR4 when I was a kid.  Here is a pic of me and my brother in front of it in 1970.

tr4.jpg

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Alan - the chassis is in really good shape.  There is floor rust, rust in each of the four cockpit corners, around the edges of the fenders (hidden by someone who covered w body fill and painted over), rust near the brake master cylinder, above the battery box, but it is all fixable.  Doors open and close just fine.  The bones of the car are good.  It was kept road-worthy and driven until early 80s when it got parked.

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Here are some additional pics showing some of the rust.  As I originally said someone painted over everything in red paint, hiding a lot of the rust.  They also over-painted a lot of parts.

 

tr4 5.jpg

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tr4 3.jpg

tr4 2.jpg

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tr4 1.jpg

tr4 7.jpg

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That's not rust but probably the remnant of a front right collision. Check the chassis condition especially the turret support section which will tell all. 

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Edited by Geko
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13 hours ago, AlanT said:

Success with these cars starts with the condition of the chassis.  Especially the back half.  A tell tale sign is doors that don't fit properly.

 

You are dead right Alan. If going for a body off restoration it would be worth an expert casting an eye. My doors don't fit well - but in my case it's seriously worn door hinges - just the odd drop of oil over the years might have saved them. Because it's such a long doot even the smallest wear is exaggerated at the closing end.

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Thanks.  There are several areas of suspicion that I have to dig into.  This area is actually the left side and on the back of the wheel well.  You can see body fill work up to the rusted area in the fender lip.  I've got to dig into it.

 

8.jpg

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Take the outer wing off - unscrews very easily. Repair of the rusted inner wing then much easier to work on.

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39 minutes ago, RMP NC said:

Thanks.  There are several areas of suspicion that I have to dig into.  This area is actually the left side and on the back of the wheel well.  You can see body fill work up to the rusted area in the fender lip.  I've got to dig into it.

 

8.jpg

Love the way someone has run amok with red paint. :D

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I have received the Heritage Trust Certificate for my car.  Contrary to what I was told by seller the car was originally signal red w black interior and top.  It had heater, windscreen washers, tonneau cover, whitewalls, and 60 spoke wheels.  No mention of wood steering wheel which mine has and seems to be original. I guess disc brakes were standard then as that is the only other item on it I thought might be special but was unsure.

Manufactured on 6 July 1964 and came to US out of Bristol on the "Hussaro".

At some point in the car's life the colors were swapped as it has a black paint coat under the recent bad red job and they put in all red interior with a white top.  But I suspected after closer inspection it was red originally.  The original grommets and seals feeding cables and wires under the dash into the firewall are all red paint under them, so I was pretty sure it was red.

Now I just have to convince a skeptical state inspection officer that I am not running a car chop shop ring or that the car was not stolen or that I'm not involved in some other criminal activity I'm too uninformed to even know exists.  That I had a valid title from another state in the US makes no difference to the vehicle registration folks in North Carolina.  I am hoping the heritage certificate which confirms all my numbers helps.  I've heard of people having issues with just the fact that the numbers are stamped on plates that are pop riveted to the car vs the numbers being stamped into the actual metal of the car body.  American cars from this era have a metal tag with the vin number stamped on it that's pop riveted in but also in two or three places that number is stamped in the actual body and chassis.  These inspectors like to see that as they expect it.  Clearly I won't have that since TRs don't have that.  I plan to print out the info about how numbering works for these cars in case I need to show them.   Assuming I get past them I will begin the process of restoration.

 

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