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rogerowen last won the day on August 5

rogerowen had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Lymington, Hampshire
  • Cars Owned:
    Restoring classic cars. Current project - LHD TR4A re-import from USA.

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  1. Whooa !! That's serious! Looks like a friction pad came adrift.
  2. Pretty sure my old TR2's just had a pipe coming straight down out from the block with the angled cut as mentioned. Always got blocked!
  3. rogerowen

    paint choice

    Looks great! Is that 'Powder Blue'?
  4. Thanks Rob, that's a very concise set of instructions Cheers, Roger..
  5. Thanks Ian, this is useful. Not sure what axle ratio I have, the car is a solid axle 4A re-import from USA, non overdrive. Cheers, Roger
  6. Thanks Keith, that's interesting I have non standard wheels (American Racing 'Silverstone', to which I have fitted 'Continental' tyres), but I feel that the under-read and erratic needle swings might be due to something mechanical in the units. The speedo maxes out at 40 mph, even though i'm going faster and the tach won't go past around 2k RPM. Take you point about cable oiling -will drain it back out. Cheers, Roger.
  7. My slightly basket case 4A back on the road after a 15 year slumber and things are settling down nicely the more it's driven. However, the tacho and speedo are not really catching up with the rest of the car - both under reading. Guessing that the magnets have become a little demagnetised after years of stuck in the same position. I've managed to get some oil down the tacho cable but no difference. Any other possible causes?
  8. With the price of a new wing far beyond a possibility for me, and as my welding is such rubbish (Oh, how I have tried!), I decided to have a go at fixing my very peppered front wing using a technique I had success with repairing a vintage horse box metal mudguard. Grind off as much rust as possible (both sides), then heavily paint on the inside where holes are with a good resin based paint - then roll on successive sheets of fine fiberglass matting, repainting over each sheet until well built up 3 - 5 layers. Fill the other side with ultra fine filler, sand down - finishing with p1000 of finer grade wet and dry. For the paint - POR 15 is great, but pricey, for the TR wing repair I used Upol P-88 that I happened to have lying around. More difficult than the lower section is the area around the headlight - and there is no repair panel available for this as far as I am aware - hardly surprising - v complicated! On my wing this area was shot to pieces and not enough metal remaining to graft floppy fg tissue to, so I had to revert to zinc mesh to fashion the shape. No idea how long the repair will last, but the horsebox repair is holding up well after 7 years, and the total cost for the TR wing repair was probably less than a tenner!
  9. Does look deliberate rather than accidental, extra space for a remote brake servo???
  10. rogerowen

    paint choice

    Thinking of going light blue too, which was the original Triumph colour - I'm thinking it was Wedgewood???
  11. Looking good - man on a mission I reckon!
  12. I'm sure there will be varied opinions . IOM, get as much rust and loose paint out with wire brushes, flap wheels etc. Treat with Jenolite (not a great fan of Kurust) after clearing any grease and grime with brake cleaner spray and brush (I use old toothbrushes for small areas and crevices, and washing up brushes). Dry off with clean rag and blast air if you have a compressor. Prime with something heavy duty - I use red oxide type primer, and as it's a boot area likely to be carpet covered and you are not going for concours - brush painting should be adequate. Underneath is obviously even more important - here I would go as above + a top coat of something heavy duty - POR 15 (if you are feeling flush), or Chassis Black. Good luck. Cheers, Roger
  13. I was thinking the same - rear cfankshaft seal>
  14. Aha, so that top cap comes off? I did not know this. Also -Wife's nag is shedding it's winter coat - so I could replenish with horse hair FOC! But as you say probably better to use steel wool.
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