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rogerowen

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  • AIM
    RogerOwen
  • Website URL
    http://alliancepictures.co.uk
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Lymington, Hampshire
  • Cars Owned:
    Restoring classic cars. Current project - LHD TR4A re-import from USA.

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  1. Again, many thanks everyone - superb tips!
  2. Now there's an idea. I wonder what size / thread etc.
  3. Thanks guys, the engine's running well considering it hadn't been started for about 15 years. There's a lot of carbonated sludge around the valve gear, oil was as black as, so drained and refilled with sacrificial 20/50 and a new filter. There was no apparent antifreeze, and water drained from the bottom of the radiator was very rusty - radiator cap very clogged with rusty muck. Water out of the block via the top end of the bottom hose ran clear!!! Seeing as I was about to do a head rebuild - I thought it might be a good idea to drain the block via the tap as it sits lower than the top end of the bottom hose - if you see what I mean. Tap opened with a little persuasion an a dibble of clear water came out and subsequent probing with a small file (handle end, without a handle!) produced the black, oily gundge mentioned. Dropping the sump will hopefully allow me to see if there's an issue with the figure of eight gaskets - bought a cheap as chips endoscope (£20!) to assist. Back to the tap - it looks like it will be much easier to get a spanner/wrench to it once the manifolds are off . I would appreciate any tips on liner removal and refit, as this is something I've not done before. I'm going to attempt this work with the block in situ, and maintaining existing liners, pistons etc, if at all possible. There's good compression at 155 psi except No 2 which is down to 120 - but i'm thinking this might be a valve issue. Thanks.
  4. Just drained coolant from rad - all very rusty. Drain tap on block clogged with black, oily, carbonated sludge. Any ideas?
  5. Looks like a top end rebuild that's not seen any oil. Could be some gold there - if carefully cleaned and lubricated.
  6. Just as a matter of interest - I have an issue with my boat's inboard engine a 1993 Yanmar single cylinder diesel that has red looking antifreeze in its heat exchanger (which leaks). Using an endoscope I can see a right mess in there!
  7. Thanks everyone - think I'll stick with the Blue stuff!
  8. I had a feeling that was the case, thanks.
  9. Any reason to not use red/oat antifreeze in a TR engine?
  10. So, you have an engine? What do you think is wrong with it? Surely it would be better to fix the engine you have. Rimmer Bros have several model complete engine rebuild kits for £650 + VAT, You might require the assistance of a specialist engineering firm for valve seat, valve guide fitting, and crankshaft regrind, if needed. 125 psi is a bit low - especially for a race prepared engine ..... I'm getting 150 psi on a 'dubious history' standard 4A lump. Water in the oil would certainly point at a head gasket problem at the very least, and might be contributing to the low compression readings you are getting. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RF4006R2BK
  11. Ah, ok. Bottom hole on my bonnet is about 123 mm from the leading edge. My original 'world' badge was completely shot, and to be honest I've alway preferred the 'shield' from the 4 - but is expensive so went for a much cheaper generic 'shield' from a Vitesse / GT6. Hole spacing was different to the 'world', so I kept the lower hole, filled the upper one, and drilled a new (slightly) lower hole for the top badge pin.
  12. So, you have an engine? What do you think is wrong with it? Surely it would be better to fix the engine you have.
  13. Measuring an old one I have - the distance between the 2 pins is 61mm centre to centre. The pins are 2.6mm in width - probably a 3mm hole will do the trick. the fitting holes are vertical.
  14. rogerowen

    eBay scams

    I think Facebook 'Marketplace' is different from the ads that pop up within your personal account - usually using a video demonstration of a product - mainly DIY gadgets.
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