swanny Posted December 13, 2018 Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 Just removed the diff for oil seal renewal, found that the r/h side diff mounting was cracked, without removing the body I was thinking of contacting a mobile welding service to carry out repairs and fit the strengthening bits to the other three mountings, anybody got any recommendations and ball park cost, I lived in North Yorkshire and the car is over a pit so access is fair. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted December 13, 2018 Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 Can't help with a referral, but thought to share this: A local friend with (3) TR6s and several British bikes told me he has no problem with his diff mounts despite 200+ BHP at the wheels of his supercharged one. This because he stuffs hardwood into the U-channel bracket of the, you guessed it, right mount. Torque produced by the engine tends to crush this, and the wood renders it solid. I think he turns 78 or 79 this year. Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
atlastitsgreen Posted December 13, 2018 Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 Hi Tom, Apologies to the OP for appearing to highjack the thread, but what a great anecdote, a simple cheap and effective old time solution to avoid an awkward problem. Where will we be when all these guys are gone? Fabulous to hear that it actually works, but nothing quite like fitting a supercharger to tease out those little weaknesses! Clearly can only be done before any damage occurs and I suspect that, here in the UK, by now we may only have fixed cars and cars needing to be fixed. No doubt there could be some raised eyebrows come MoT time. At the opposite end of the spectrum I recall many years ago seeing a 6 where the shelf behind the seats had been cut either side and peeled back like a sardine can so that the pin tops could be strengthened without removing the body - cheap but just about as inelegant as it gets, no doubt they have more cunning ways to achieve that now. Good luck to the OP in getting it sorted, I expect the usual suspects will be along soon with sage advice on cost and other likely issues. Season’s greetings to all, Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 13, 2018 Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 Hi Bob, I've said it before but I just love your forum name - Atlas Tits Green - stunning. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 13, 2018 Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 15 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Bob, I've said it before but I just love your forum name - Atlas Tits Green - stunning. Roger Roger you are naughty well spotted H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted December 13, 2018 Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 In my experience the weld at the top of the pin is always broken so you need to get at the top of the diff mount either by removing the body or cutting an access through the floor. Sorry, that's just the way it is. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 Right hand rear or front? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 8 minutes ago, Z320 said: Right hand rear or front? Its always the right hand front gets punched upwards and the rear left hand gets pulled down through due to the torque twist of the diff. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 On my TR4A it was the LH rear, it is possible to repair this without welding Quote Link to post Share on other sites
atlastitsgreen Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 1 hour ago, Z320 said: On my TR4A it was the LH rear, it is possible to repair this without welding Hi Z320, that sounds like it could be interesting, it's not clear to me how you could undertake a safe repair in this area without welding but please could you elaborate. Kind regards, Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 (edited) rear diff bolt repair to bolt on, no welding anyway the diff must be out and it's a @%&%$§! job Edited December 14, 2018 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 That's a German word which is not in my 1960s dictionary! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 12 hours ago, ianc said: That's a German word which is not in my 1960s dictionary! Ian Cornish Hi Ian, I can read German, it means it’s best done by a good friend:) Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 On 12/14/2018 at 1:07 PM, Z320 said: @%&%$§! Waldi whilst I know very little about languages I think in this case with the emphasis on “ &%$ “ of the word, it strongly suggests “intimate” friend and not just “good” friend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 (edited) Had the diff 1 time out and in again. Next time I make myself a adjustable "table" / bracket to use on my hydraulic jack. Edited December 18, 2018 by Z320 spelling mistake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.