Kenny Henderson Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Hi Guys, wonder if you can help - I am investing in a TR3A as part of my pension, it has had 5 previous owners the last two of which have been dealers who have registered the car in their own names for some reason. The car is in mint condition and I have negotiated hard for what I think is a good price. I am really familiar with MGB's but not TR's - is there anywhere I can do some background checks on vehicle history if I have the reg, chassis and engine number? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Hi Kenny - join the Register and there is a wealth of information via the model registrars. Please though don't just see the car as an investment - get out there and enjoy it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenny Henderson Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Thanks Rod, that will definitely be happening - I've got a 63 Roadster, 76 Stag and hopefully soon to add the TR. They will definitely be enjoyed both in the garage and on the road. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Along with the TR2, we have a '74 Stag, a '61 Midget and a Citroen Acadiane. We're all gluttons for punishment! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike ellis Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Kenny, y You have a PM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 There are a number of problems which are not always obvious The chassis rusts from inside and the rear 30% is worse Rust is every where and may be covered by new paint and filler It is difficult and expensive to make the doors close neatly and with an even door gap The A post is not strong enough and often the door will catch on the cill at the rear end, of the door. I have a friend whose door is OK until he fits the side screen. Make sure that the lock is properly lined up with the lock plate. Check for chassis damage and twisting by measurement The floors rust out It is difficult to make the very expensive side screens line up with the windscreen, hood and hardtop Remove the rubber seal along the base of each door Windscreen movement from use as a lever when getting out of the car. The fuel tank can have rust particles that feed through to the pump. Check the glass filter on the pump Check for wear in the SU carb spindles.Should be none Wear in the steering box and indicators not cancelling. Poor road holding from old springs Difficult to change gear smoothly Should have overdrive on 2,3,4th Front wings rust out because the drain channel send water directly into the wing/body cavity Boot lid drain holes cause the same damage to the rear wings The lower edge of the doors can have old repairs from rusting from inside Remove the restrictor valve from the brake hydraulic pipes Rubber seals on the suspension have a short useful life. Upgrade the radiator to avoid overheating, using a modern core When refitting the front panel use s.s screws so that they undo OK next time. Oil leak at the gearbox end of the engine, very expensive Engine may cause vibration if not balanced. Retain the fan. Hydraulic/fuel pipes should be Kunifer/copper and not steel Fit a racing condenser outside the distributor to eliminate hot starting. Check the seat springs for collapse Check the chassis for internal rust and cracks around front suspension mountings. The benefit of these cars is that it can all be repaired. The parts are available from more than one source and there are experienced companies who will look after all problems.There is also the forum for advice from long term owners. Good luck Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Buy the car with the best bodywork you can afford. The mechanical bits are much cheaper to sort out than bad panel fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
T Rusty Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Richard didn’t mention and there is usually a nut loose behind the wheel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikej Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 My only additional contribution to Richard's great list is that you be very suspicious of any modification from standard, important to know who did it with a check of their expertise. Dampers, steering, Over-Drive and brake conversions - great if done expertly but a dangerous & expensive business if not! Cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Hi Kenny ~ Make absolutely sure it's not a TR2 but fitted with a 3A front apron. The SU carbs. should be 1.75" and fitted to a high port cylinder head. Check for front disc brakes. Also make sure it's not a TR3 with the 3A front apron. Check the commission number. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 (edited) . Edited April 16, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyloz Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Pm sent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 6 hours ago, T Rusty said: Richard didn’t mention and there is usually a nut loose behind the wheel. Nothing that a good talk-wrench can not fix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 (edited) . Edited April 16, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 It is a wrench to leave the garage to watch Strictly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 (edited) 21 hours ago, Richardtr3a said: Nothing that a good talk-wrench can not fix Talk wench !!!! that the wife isn’t it ? ps this is not off topic ! you really do need a sense of humour- owning a TR. Edited November 26, 2018 by Hamish Ps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Red 6 Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Rust and panel fit are problems and they take a long time in the restoration process to remove and get right respectively. Parts availability are generally good to excellent unless you need body panels at anytime, when you will be in trouble. One item not mentioned is the engine. With age the water jackets become filled with rust and sludge which then becomes a sort of cement which no "patented" cure can shift. This will lead to overheating as the sludge is thickest on NO4 jacket. I know this as my previous 3a suffered with this and required and engine rebuild. To make sure this never happened again, the car I am currently in the process of selling has had a complete engine rebuild which included new pistons and liners, the block soda blasted and machine washed prior to final engineering and rebuild with all new parts. This does not come cheap so is often ignored and covered up with a nice engine paint job. My suggestion is to get the seller to prove there are no overheating issues. I have a series of photos taken at each stage of the rebuild showing how much rust and sludge is present in a running engine before the rebuild which I will publish here with a full article on why 4 pot tr engines overheat. It has been covered many times before but I think my photo's will add to our collective knowledge. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 (edited) . Edited April 16, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Red 6 Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Touchez! I have the same picture (and colour) also with the cemented and bunged up drain hole. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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