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Nor me - no vertical cut-off on dipped beam, so likely to dazzle oncoming motorists (and probably illegal). 

Bob's set-up is as it ought to be.

Ian Cornish

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20 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

....and you go out at night with those.....?

Peter W

Yes, 2 times by late dawn, signals only from one other driver

Edited by Z320

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Looking at upgrading my existing Halogen headlight bulbs and having read this thread it has been very informative, confusing at time but very informative.

Bobs post show the much improved light output from the LED type 9-32 over the Osram Night breaker.

I had been considering the Night breaker Laser which are an upgrade over the previous Night breakers,( not sure which version you had Bob ) reported to give 20% more light, a longer beam length and a whiter light.The Night breaker Laser are £20 a pair compared with £70 for the LEDs.

I see cheaper versions are available but if I opt for the LEDs  I don't see the point in compromising.

Question is are the LEDs worth the extra cost. If anyone has fitted the Laser I would be interested to know what they think of them.

P.S

Having read the thread again I think I'll be calling Classic Car LEDs tomorrow.

Many thanks Phil

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I had the standard Nightbreakers, wired up through relays.

I have kept the relays (for now) with the new LED bulbs, but now not really any advantage as the LED's draw a lot less current.

Bob.

Edited by Lebro

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Thanks Bob.

I'm heavily leaning towards the LEDs as I guess the saving of not needing additional driving lights more than out weighs the cost !

 

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LEDs arrived today from Classic Car LEDs, quality product and service.

Installed...just waiting for the rain to stop to give them a test  :D

IMG_3073.jpg

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These were the ones I put in the 4a.

H4 LED they can be separated in the middle to allow the doughnut to be fitted. They can be put back together 180 degrees rotated which puzzled me at first as one headlight had a perfect dip cutoff and the other completely wrong. Undo turn180 and all was good.

I used ones with a heat sink and no fan because I know of a few where the fan has failed and shortly followed by the bulb. A bigger passive heat sink has one less component to fail.

18 months on so far so good. Would a more expensive set have been better for me or the vendor? Time will tell.

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Hi Andy,

I separated and took off the heat sink and reversed, but have not been able to fit the rubber doughnut as just managed to get all the wiring  and adapters into the headlight bowl. This is on a 72 TR6 by the way. Are the doughnuts necessary, what are there purpose. If essential I will have to get the extension kit and put the wiring behind the bowl.

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Doughnuts ?  do you mean the original dust shields?

Bob.

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Hi Bob,

The term doughnut has been used through the tread but yes I assume they are dust shields.

The head lamp bucket ( steel in my case ) only has a small hole through which the wiring is routed.

So I guess the only place dust could get in would be around the Inner mounting rim and the chrome outer mounting rim.

I could get an extension kit to put all items except the bulb and heat sink outside the headlamp bucket to accommodate the dust shields but is this necessary.

Phil.

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OK that is what I guessed was meant. I did use the extension kit on my installation because it was just a bit too cramped in the shell to get everything comfortably inside it. Downside is you need to a fair bit of re-routing of existing wiring.

If it all fits inside your shell I would forget the rubber shield.

Bob.

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I decided it was  all too cramped inside the heafdlamp bucket/shell so I fitted the power pack on the outside of the shell/bucket with a couple of tie wraps.  To do this I drilled some small holes through the shell and threaded the tie wraps through. That way I did not need longer wiring as the cable to the lamp unit threads through the original wiring hole grommet.

My Cibie dust shields were refitted without any issues.

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT

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i also fitted the classic car LED  power packs outside the shell using the extensions that came with, and cable tied them to the wiring loom serving the headlights. i had to make the holes in the shell slightly larger but sealed them with black mastic, and also retained duct sheilds/doughnuts

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Tomorrows another day, and as the rain hasn't stopped I may look at making some adjustment, to reinstate the dust covers.

Thanks for the info guys.

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It is interesting how different manufacturers attack the problem in different ways,

The Cheapo NightEye that I have and posted by Andy have all the clever bits in the lump at the back f the bulb. So no separate power pack.

My only difficulty was the size of the hole in the dust shield. Thus needed to be opened up to allow the bulb body to fit in. otherwise they are still going strong.

I have got used to the very different light colour (almost colourless). The filament yellow (even with the best Xenon bulbs) had quite a homely  feel to them. You knew where they were.

The LED simply illuminates the road without being there !!!! 

 

Roger

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I have fitted Classic Car LED head lamp bulbs to one side to compare and they are very bright with proper cut offs on dip as per normal filament bulbs. I had a long chat with my MOT tester

(who has a M11 RS Escort he completely rebuilt) and the result was he would fail any car presented to him that was converted to Leds and not the proper designed reflector lens to go with it. That rules out fitting LED bulbs into lenses designed for Halogen and filament bulbs. Classic Car LEDS own website under terms and conditions (which I read too late) states for off road use only and could be illegal in your country. So there we have it, regulations do not allow us to fit and they will fail an MOT or invalidate an insurance claim. Until this is disputed and deemed legal I will remove mine for the time being.

Regards HarryTR5 Nutter

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Hi Harry,

there has been a great deal of chat on here about LED's as headlights. The consensus is that there is no reason NOT to fit them.

Somebody contacted their insurance and the Insu co. was happy. 

Our age of car do not need E marked bulbs.

The MOT tester is NOT allowed to remove anything to check if they are LED or not.

Classic Car LED's website is almost certainly getting out of liability because they can't control what is going on.

MOT testers (unlike LED bulbs) are not the brightest of engineers.

You can't fit HID bulbs because you need self leveling headlights but LED simply replicate the filament bulb.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH

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Harry,

I understand your dilemma, but I think your tester, on the basis of what he has said, should also fail any car where tungsten filament lamps (commonly called "bulbs") have been replaced with halogen lamps, unless the reflector etc has been changed to suit.

That can't be right, and as Roger says the LED lamps replicate the original filament lamps, as do the halogen type.

Fit and enjoy those dark nights!

:rolleyes:

Mike

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hi, Harry,  below my previous post regarding insurance,  assuming u are with A plan of course. also classic car LED now sell a warm white LED which is less obvious as an LED, so less likely to get attention from the MOT tester, i have the warm whites and am very happy with their look and performance. 

Hi all, i have been looking at fitting LED headlights and have been reading with interest. however i could not find a statement from A Plan on this so spoke to Peter Barrett just now and he has sent me this statement which he has asked i post:

I have had the below confirmed by Richard Bauckham (Specialist Motor Underwriter KGM Insurance) as follows:

“We are happy to confirm that we have no issues with LED replacement bulbs and this will not affect the insurance in any way, provided that the bulbs fitted are of the equivalent or higher rating (watts to lumens) than the standard fitment bulbs.”

This does not indicate that they are legal but does mean that your insurance will not be invalidated by fitting them.

Please note this excludes the fitment of angel eye style headlamps.

Peter Barrett | Cherished Vehicle Insurance Manager

A-Plan Insurance | Worcester
2 Foregate Street, Worcester WR1 1DB

t: 01905 930740

e: Peter.Barrett@aplan.co.uk

w: www.aplan.co.uk

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I had a long discussion with our club insurers and they have confirmed fitting LED (with the same beam pattern) lighting will not invalidate our insurance. They are sending  me a email to confirm in writing what they said to me over the phone.I will go and see my MOT inspector and see what he has to say pre MOT.

Better to be safe than sorry.

Regards HarryTR5 Nutter

Edited by harrytr5

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Spoke to my MOT tester re HIDs in the 6  - his view was that our cars pre-date the legislation and therefore the rules re self levelling cannot be applied. (Beyond the beam being satisfactory)

He asked where I got them so he could get some for his Alfa!

I Put LEDs in the 4A and no comment from MOT tester (his younger colleague).

Overall I would say the HIDs are slightly brighter, but don't get flashed by oncoming traffic with either.

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Hi Harry

I have LED lights in my 5 and had no trouble at the MOT garage they even let me adjust them their,

And I have told the insurance company they are fitted, It is the TRR insurance,

Hope this helps you.

Cheers

Dave.

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With a bit on time on my hands and having obtained the extension leads from Classic Car LEDsI thought I'd adapt the wiring and fit the dust covers.

The dust covers fit without adjustment. Question I have is do the connections to the terminal block , pictured below , just push -pull out possible with a small flat screwdriver.

Concerned about breaking the fitting.

IMG_3124.jpg

IMG_3127.jpg

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