Staffs Man Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 On several occasions my fly off handbrake (TR3a ) as disengaged at the wrong time. I have had a close inspection and have come to the conclusion that the ratchet portion can be changed without removing the Foden /ERF handbrake unit from the chassis, my question is can the pawl also be replaced without disturbing the unit from the chassis. I have removed the ratchet portion and this appears to be in good condition so I think the pawl is the offending item,I hope I can as it will save a lot of messing about. ManyThanks Mike Walters ( Staffs Man ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Usualy both parts need to be "sharpened up" to lock together properly. Can't remember id the pawl is a separate item, but removing the whole thing is a pretty simple job. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Hi Mike, I'm sure the pawl comes out once the ratchet has been removed. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/brake-system/hand-brake/handbrake-tr2-4.html Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 The safety factor with fly-off handbrakes is to leave the car in gear when parking. If facing uphill then select first gear. If facing downhill then select reverse gear. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Tom - I was born & raised in Bath (lots of very steep hills) and was taught that one should use the force required to rotate the engine in its normal direction to act as a brake should the handbrake let go. In other words, use first gear when facing downhill, reverse when facing uphill. In addition, point the front wheels against the kerb. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 " In addition, point the front wheels against the kerb" But even that has to be done in the correct direction depending how the car is facing Up-hill it should be the rear of the kerb-side tyre angled towards the kerb while downhill it should be the front of the kerbside tyre. That way the front of the car will always move towards the kerb if the brakes slip rather than swing out into the road. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 Correct, Rob, and thanks for stating this, but I didn't say so because (to me) it's blindingly obvious! However, I'm surprised that so few drivers nowadays make use of the "kerb brake" on steep hills. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Staffs Man Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 Hello Roger Thank you for answering the handbrake question. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 On several occasions my fly off handbrake (TR3a ) as disengaged at the wrong time. I have had a close inspection and have come to the conclusion that the ratchet portion can be changed without removing the Foden /ERF handbrake unit from the chassis, my question is can the pawl also be replaced without disturbing the unit from the chassis. I have removed the ratchet portion and this appears to be in good condition so I think the pawl is the offending item,I hope I can as it will save a lot of messing about. ManyThanks Mike Walters ( Staffs Man ) Just done this, to strip a hand brake for chroming. The pawl will come out once its pivot pin is removed but the button must be fully depressed to disengage the operating rod from the side of the pawl. This task is a lot easier on the bench with the lever assembly held in the vice. My memory says the pawl is case hardened, meaning that after 'sharpening' it may wear through the hardening and leave it soft. The ratchet is made from gauge plate that has been hardened and tempered. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 FWIW the new pawls arent very clever either so re-use what you have if possible. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 This problem would not arise if drivers only used handbrakes in the right way, NOT allowing the pawl to ride over the ratchet and therefore avoiding any wear. For our fly-offs of course this means NOT depressing the handbrake button when applying, whereas for a conventional mechanical hand brake the button should be depressed to apply. I wince every time I hear a handbrake applied incorrectly. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 You can't now 'Trust' our flyoff handbrakes, even properly engaged, I've known them 'Fly off' when the door is shut! John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 This problem would not arise if drivers only used handbrakes in the right way, NOT allowing the pawl to ride over the ratchet and therefore avoiding any wear. For our fly-offs of course this means NOT depressing the handbrake button when applying, whereas for a conventional mechanical hand brake the button should be depressed to apply. I wince every time I hear a handbrake applied incorrectly. Tim I don't press the button but I still need to replace the pawl every few years. My car does a lot of miles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Still on original pawl on my 4A after nearly 48 years and over 200K miles. I rest my case. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted July 12, 2018 Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 Still on original pawl on my 4A after nearly 48 years and over 200K miles. I rest my case. Tim The TR4A has a different handbrake to the TR2/3/4. I rest my case. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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