MadMarx Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 I've started with building two 4-1 headers. As far I have seen on the market, there is nothing available for racing purpose so I need to do it myself. Tubes are already bought, tig welder and gas is ready to go. I've never done such a thing before. Will be interesting to work on this. I'll start with building the collector. Cheers Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 Good luck Chris Having seen the high regard for you on the forum Im sure you can do a great job. You must share some before - during - and after picture. Happy hobby Christmas H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted December 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 (edited) photos? okay, I maybe I might shoot some. Edited December 23, 2017 by MadMarx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 Hi Chris, Mick Richards and Peter Burgess might be able to offer some useful suggestions re headers, from their past experimentations in the days when Mick's V8 was a quick as it got and won successive Championships.. . . . I'll try and organise photos of the headers on the Drag Car next week (it's currently all wrapped up for the winter period), they seem to work pretty well and exit via a single drainpipe on the left hand under the door . . . . . I know that when Paul built the engine he tried several systems, until the car's rwhp exceeded the capacity of the rolling road. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted December 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 hi alec, very kind that you still can follow the TR8 things. I'm still in contact with Mike and he's helpful as usual. Todays work: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spyder dryver Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 Hi Chris. Popular wisdom has it that a 4-2-1 system is favoured for V8s with a 90 deg crank. The 4-1 type is associated with a flat plane crank. Assuming a 4-2-1... And a 18436572 firing order... And a 90 deg crank... The left bank should pair cylinders 1-5 and 3-7. The right bank should pair cylinders 2-4 and 6-8. Opinion is divided on the need for a balance tube. Tons of stuff on the net. Get searching. Are you making merge collectors? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted December 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 Hi Spyder, from what I see on the web, Euope seems to favorise the 4-2-1 stye, America seems to prefer the 4-1 style. Especially for full out engines. I tend to make the merge collector by myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Interesting post, as I'll have to make myself a pair of exhaust manifolds for Rivet, now with a 3L5 Rover V8. Not for racing purpose, but the space Under the alloy bonnet is strictly limited ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 28, 2017 Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 (edited) Is it worth looking at MGRV8 system - a factory made car with a tubular exhaust manifold? That was 4-1 each bank and brought the two banks together in the silencers - so it was balanced. Then exit in two pipes. https://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/MG_RV8.html https://www.ukmgparts.com/catalogue/rv8-midcat-14-sub67rv8-exhaust-system-and-mountings Peter W Edited December 28, 2017 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted December 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 (edited) The TR8 has a steering shaft in its way. From what I see on the MG parts pictures it won't fit. Exhaust headers are a very power sensitive items. On my TR4 I had one top header and a few flop headers. Edited December 28, 2017 by MadMarx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted December 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 To show the space, some photos from today: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 28, 2017 Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 TVR take the header pipes forward and then down in front of the engine, where the cat is, Any chance? http://www.actproducts.co.uk/product/ms02-griffith-pre-cat-y-piece/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted December 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 There are several ways to guide the exhaust gases from the engine....longer ways or shorter ways.....this would be a short version: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 28, 2017 Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 Mark Engine wrong end look at Gt40/ Cobra Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted December 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 Started with welding today.....oups...forgot to take a photo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted December 29, 2017 Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 If you need to wrap your new manifolds with heat protector, search for refractories owen accessoiries : it has been one of my jobs when younger, and the rolls are 10 time cheaper that he ones sold by racing cars specialists.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted December 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 (edited) I never use wraps on headers. Wraps soak power. I removed the wraps from the headers on the photos and just left a 2" length to protect the ignition cables. But thank you for the very good advice to look out for oven stuff. Edited December 29, 2017 by MadMarx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted December 30, 2017 Report Share Posted December 30, 2017 You're welcome I never use it neither, not because it soak power -did it ?- but because I'm not sure that it is of some use on a road car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted December 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2017 This is the first step. Need to make further adjustments. I'm not where I want to be at the lower end. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 31, 2017 Report Share Posted December 31, 2017 Looking good. Its a complicated plumbing job looking at the pictures above posts. Youll have it done by next year. ???? Doh !!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted December 31, 2017 Report Share Posted December 31, 2017 I've not used this, never made my own exhaust system, but being able to model it in adjustable plastic before producing it in steel sounds a good idea: https://horsepowersports.com/icengineworks-exhaust-header-modeling-blocks-make-custom-headers-like-a-pro/ John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted December 31, 2017 Report Share Posted December 31, 2017 Simply clever, thanks John ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted January 2, 2018 Report Share Posted January 2, 2018 Good luck! Unfortunately I never had the chance to make a good header. I had to find my way besides the steering and besides the starter and at the end wanted to fit both headers with engine in the car. I tried a lot with the connector between left and right header. Definitely got power increase in the midrange with the connector about 110 cm away from cylinder head. Again there must be a place to be found for the connector tube without resulting below the TR6 frame. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted January 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2018 I've not used this, never made my own exhaust system, but being able to model it in adjustable plastic before producing it in steel sounds a good idea: https://horsepowersports.com/icengineworks-exhaust-header-modeling-blocks-make-custom-headers-like-a-pro/ John I use instead water plastic plumbing tube. They cost € cent and you can cut them and there are angled connectors. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted January 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 The left side dummy. Not the final version. I'm still fiddling with the length: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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