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4-1 V8 headers


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Hi Christian, I am fitting a new sink in my bathroom, looks like you are the man to tell me how it's done lol :lol:

 

Mick Richards

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When I look at this I see the need for the "noodles".

Long time ago we obtained this bagle shaped steel tubes

in 40mm and 45mm from SCHRICK in Germany.

They are a full 360 degree tube completely welded.

 

They are used for sharper bends like on top at cylinder

or sometimes in the lower area to get around to gain

length. We used it by cutting the required angle like a

piece of cake out of this bagle.

 

My question: Is it possible to get that special tube material

somewhere?

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With regards to header length.

I don't think that getting all pipes at the same length is worthwhile.

Reason:

Header length do work at a very narrow range of rev.

 

Longer pipes do work better at lower revs, shorter ones at higher.

So I think best is to cover a range of lengths with the headers.

To make it work best from 6k to 7k the range of length is about 81cm to 98cm.

 

My shortest pipe is 81, my longest is 89. This will cover a range of revs. Certainly not maximum power, but it might rise the torque band which is more important than maximum power.

Giving up 10 hp to gain 10Nm of torque is always a good deal.

Edited by MadMarx
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Thank you Alec.

 

It is easier than I thought.

If you have the first tube in place, the rest easy.

 

After all tubes are done, I need to TIG weld them.

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Looks very professional, very impressed. way out outside of my very limited skills.

Hope you can share a video so we can hear it.

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Tight, yes - the the pipe of cylinder 7 is close to the frame and will burn the paint I'm afraid, but I had to decide....exhaust touching steering column or getting close to the frame.

On my TR4 the exhaust is also close to the frame with no problem after 20 years of use.

 

I'm surprised that making a header is easier than I thought.

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Nice work. Now all you have to do is polish them, then weld them using an extra internal purge.

And simply bash a dent where it touches the frame. It won't make much difference to the flow.

 

When I made my own I arranged it such that each section slipped inside the next. No butt welds and it held itself in shape. It helped that the port end was 1 3/4" and the collector was 2".

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Very nice work on this header you show. Also the after burning slots.

For sure my weldings won't be nice like that.

Those were done by a pro welder and not one like me, who tig welds every two years for 10 minutes.

 

But after a few races, they will be darkish from heat and the shine will be gone.

 

The only sparkling stuff on my car should be a winners trophy....but that will take some time in developing the car and learning to drive.

Edited by MadMarx
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Hi Christian, I am fitting a new sink in my bathroom, looks like you are the man to tell me how it's done lol :lol:

 

Mick Richards

 

I'm sure he will sink about it.

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The French are far more up to date on that one !!!

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sinking_of_the_Rainbow_Warrior

 

A bit out of date, Hamish, but true, we call these guys "barbouzes".

 

How the hell did we start from a tubular exhaust manifold subject to end with the Rainbow Warrior in a NewZealand arbour, it's a mystery.....

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