Bulatovic Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Hi guys - i guess the title says it all, does anyone have an original breather for the crankcase laying around gathering dust? After solving head gasket oil leak, and removing old PCV, i need a way of venting the crankcase to reduce oil spills - and would like to go original many thanks in advance! cheers Luka Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Hi guys - i guess the title says it all, does anyone have an original breather for the crankcase laying around gathering dust? After solving head gasket oil leak, and removing old PCV, i need a way of venting the crankcase to reduce oil spills - and would like to go original Hi Luka, the breather pipe (snorkel) is not original to the 4A. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Maybe not but it does an exceedingly good job. Triumph had it right with the 4 until the environmental lobby forced them to use the PCV on the 4A. Kis. (Keep it Simple) Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR2-Original-Engine-Block-Vent-Tube-/292058634944?hash=item44000d1ac0:g:~ZYAAOSw~AVYqbR4 I'm sometimes dealing with them. They will automatically accept an offer at -10% of the the advertised price. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 (edited) Racetorations make a 'push it in yourself and fit a pipe' adaptor for engine breather tank connection. http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr2-c3/tr2-engine-c12/racetorations-crankcase-breather-p804 Not hard to make yourself if you have a lathe. Peter W Edited April 12, 2017 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 The problem is removing the plug from the block with the engine in the car... good luck ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 I'm puzzled. Why would a pipe venting to atmosphere do a better job than a PCV? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Hi Luka, I have one, have sent a pm to you, Cheers, Conrad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 I'm puzzled. Why would a pipe venting to atmosphere do a better job than a PCV? Pete Cos it's a full access unhindered hole about 28mm dia rather than the smaller orifice of the PCV valve. If you think the PCV valve has less back pressure you'd better take it up with these engines because the way they'll spit oil out of a PCV valve engine and then stop when you vent direct to atmosphere through said pipe they heartily disagree with you. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 +1 and also by venting to atmosphere via the Snorkel you are not forcing the engine to digest all the crap it produces, which messes with the fuel mixture and can give strange plug readings. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Cos it's a full access unhindered hole about 28mm dia rather than the smaller orifice of the PCV valve. If you think the PCV valve has less back pressure you'd better take it up with these engines because the way they'll spit oil out of a PCV valve engine and then stop when you vent direct to atmosphere through said pipe they heartily disagree with you. Mick Richards Thanks Mick. TBH I'm surprised that there's enough flow for the size of the orifice to make much difference to the pressure drop, but you've probably built more engines that I have. Mine just has a length of hose from the rocker cover, venting to atmosphere, but it does leak a bit of oil from various places. I have a PCV, but have never got round to fitting it as the manifold I had when reassembling the engine didn't have the adapter. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Try venting the block where you can Pete, you'll be surprised how the oil leaks start to dry up. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Clarke Posted April 12, 2017 Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 I agree, as much venting as possible. However I would advise not using an open vented snorkle if you are also connecting the tappet chest breather pipe to the carburettor intake. This will create negative pressure within the engine and may result in ingestion of dirty air through the unfiltered open snorkle. I suspected as much after stripping my present project's motor (which had been plumbed in that way) to find the sump full of dirty black sluge (the car had lived on a farm). My TR4 is a 63, when they changed from the open snorkle with no tappet breather to a blanked off crankcase breather (no skorkle) and the primitive tappet chest breather through flame trap to the carb filters. Cheers, Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted April 12, 2017 Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 I agree, as much venting as possible. However I would advise not using an open vented snorkle if you are also connecting the tappet chest breather pipe to the carburettor intake. This will create negative pressure within the engine and may result in ingestion of dirty air through the unfiltered open snorkle. I suspected as much after stripping my present project's motor (which had been plumbed in that way) to find the sump full of dirty black sluge (the car had lived on a farm). My TR4 is a 63, when they changed from the open snorkle with no tappet breather to a blanked off crankcase breather (no skorkle) and the primitive tappet chest breather through flame trap to the carb filters. Cheers, Rob The other way around actually. I think it's called the "Jabbeke syndrome" or something approaching.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 12, 2017 Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 Try venting the block where you can Pete, you'll be surprised how the oil leaks start to dry up. Mick Richards Sounds worth trying Mick, next time engine surgery is on the cards. Actually the gearbox leaks more oil than the engine does... Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Mick is correct. I have the Racetorations breathing kit on the 4 & 4A & both work well. If you saw the mucky stuff in the breather box you would not hesitate to get rid of the PCV! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Try venting the block where you can Pete, you'll be surprised how the oil leaks start to dry up. Mick Richards Like this Mick? ripsfedat4nrotanats2011+%281%29.jpg Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Like this Mick? ripsfedat4nrotanats2011+%281%29.jpg Peter W Well thats a block vent and a half! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Like this Mick? ripsfedat4nrotanats2011+%281%29.jpg Peter W "I think you are entering into the realms of fantasy Corporal Jones"...buqqer ! Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Sounds worth trying Mick, next time engine surgery is on the cards. Actually the gearbox leaks more oil than the engine does... Pete Easy fix until the engine comes out again Pete. Take off the mechanical pump and replace with a plate and large dia (at least 1") pipe from it into a bottle or purpose made catch tank. That will approximate the downward vent pipe and loose the crankcase pressure, replace the mech pump with a small output (no more then 2/3 lbs) electric pump in a suitable place until the engine comes out and you can reinstate all. Afternoons work in total. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 +1 on the fuel pump removal and fit vent pipe in a blanking plate. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Easy fix until the engine comes out again Pete. Take off the mechanical pump and replace with a plate and large dia (at least 1") pipe from it into a bottle or purpose made catch tank. That will approximate the downward vent pipe and loose the crankcase pressure, replace the mech pump with a small output (no more then 2/3 lbs) electric pump in a suitable place until the engine comes out and you can reinstate all. Afternoons work in total. Mick Richards I'm not a big fan of electric pumps, having once been trapped in a burning car while the pump (due to a short-circuit caused by the crash) emptied the tank into the fire... Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Colin Fairhurst Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 There is a breather pipe (snorkel) on eBay at the moment listed under Triumph Roadster parts Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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