Steve T Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 We have kit like this at work, called a fast hole driller. Drills pretty much any metal no matter how hard it is. Unfortunately it's only a bench size piece of kit so if it was mine, I'd have to use a miller & a carbide drill. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 Hiya Magnus, It's not an easy out, it's the fluted stud extractor which has no thread on it, it is banged in direct into a drilled out hole in the stud so it won't "unthread". Because it's hard I believe spark erosion is the way to go now to remove it and then drill out the stud in ever increasing sizes until the thread shank collapses and then attack the threaded portion in the block as described earlier in the posts. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 +1 for Micks comments Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 Ello Muck,, easy oots, taper futed thingys, they all break if used on a tight stud butt,it still should be possible for the thingy t,be tapped loose. as ive managed it quite a few times on ..others ham fisted ness !! M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 (edited) Simon, Try http://www.rm-tools.co.uk/ Alan Edited December 29, 2016 by barkerwilliams Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 All, Many people here may well think I’m being an idiot but… A This is what I would tryB I’m sure that GT6M would approve. (Apologies if you don't.)C You have decided that you may well have to scrap the block, so why not give it a try.Professional spark erosion may well be expensive. So why not try “DIY spark erosion”As GT6M has said, if you use on old carbon rod (AAA battery type --- very thin) you can produce a lot of heat. You may well be able to burn out the hardened steel bit that is in there, and then you can drill out the rest. The hardened steel part is probably no more than ½ inch deep (if that), and it may take a while, but I’d give it a try.DO WEAR FULL FACE PROTECTION WITH AN ARC WELDER’S MASK !!!Possible problems are:A You may burn the garage down (Do it outside, but somewhere where no people or animals can get hurt.)B You may distort the block.Well….It’s an idea….Charlie D. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 (edited) With respect that won't work. Spark erosion relies on the breakdown of a liquid dielectric. Marcus' method has the benefit of providing localised heat by resistive means easier than an open flame. It's nothing like spark erosion which produces very little local heating. Edited January 1, 2017 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 +1 for Pete's comments. Getting the stud hot or even molten will not actually remove the stud. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 I would give it a try, ye,v nowt t,loss. An AAA bat rod is v thin, thee,s will glow WHITE hot they glow / get so hot, it,ll melt the side of a nut, been there dun it So, get yer rod, some good jumper leads, an try it first ona scrap bit this,l let ye no just wots wot Ive a funny feeling that the rod will ..melt its way thru the middle bit, its so hot wid so much heat in there, its gotta slacken the stuff off holding it tight, Div,nt be afraid when ye see sparks appearing,its dooing its job,!!! jumpers start to smoke, then let em cool off Get some one t,film it, then can show folk how its done. will also show us what went wrong wen Ambulance, fire engine, Coppers, HSE, come along, hee haa hee ha ha ha M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 I would give it a try, ye,v nowt t,loss. An AAA bat rod is v thin, thee,s will glow WHITE hot they glow / get so hot, it,ll melt the side of a nut, been there dun it So, get yer rod, some good jumper leads, an try it first ona scrap bit this,l let ye no just wots wot Ive a funny feeling that the rod will ..melt its way thru the middle bit, its so hot wid so much heat in there, its gotta slacken the stuff off holding it tight, Div,nt be afraid when ye see sparks appearing,its dooing its job,!!! jumpers start to smoke, then let em cool off Get some one t,film it, then can show folk how its done. will also show us what went wrong wen Ambulance, fire engine, Coppers, HSE, come along, hee haa hee ha ha ha M Marcus is posting this from a local emergency services unit where they are still trying to scrape off the slag from him, lol. Micky Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 The worry with doing that is that you may end up welding the stud, & broken extractor to the block. I would try to find "an expert" to tackle this for you. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 As I understand it - the exposed end of the stud is flush with the block sealing surface. The stud is a long one, so the stuck threads are quite a distance from the are that may get hot. So I think it will not work. Spark erosion is the way to go. Then drill down to the threaded area and work from there. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve T Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Do we know where Simon is yet? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Do we know where Simon is yet? North Worcestershire or West Mids I'd guess. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Was int shed today, decided to try a wee AAA bat rod they smaller than a A type they aboot an 3/32 nds thick, turned it to a point on grinder then bunged it ona bit of thin tin plate, { Bean can lid } went thru in seconds then tried it on an olde file was on aboot 5-6 secs, sparks coming off ok, then rod dropped oot the Croc clips on jumpers, fell ont flor and burnin thru me thick rubber matt, so, put me hoof onit t,put fire oot, an it stuk t bottom of me hoof, reason, it had eaten / melted the croc clips away, noo got a 1/8th hole in them. the file, it had burned a wol in that too, to aboot a 16th deep , in such a short time so it will burn doon a bit, butt, I still rekon its worth a go, as heat into the thing works wonders Sent frae me comp, in me hoose, no in A+E as some bod,e suggested, M M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 (edited) Without the control and accuracy given by the kit used by the bloke in the Harley hat I reckon the above would be a quick route to a scrap block let alone a bean can. Edited January 3, 2017 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Simon, how far did the fluted stud extractor go into the stud? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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