marki Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Hi All. Starting my EFI conversion this weekend, and am thinking of making an air box rather than filters on the trumpets. I won't have a lot of room to the inner wheel arch. Should the trumpets be left on or just the air box ? Cheers Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 They are ram pipes and required. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Thanks Neil. Question answered. Cheers Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 That setup is looking good already Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 Yes very nice items! The ram pipes need more than 10mm free space behind the trumpet. If you build the airbox from aluminium you can buy the parts from ROSS. http://www.rossmachineracing.com/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted August 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 Hi Andreas. Is that the minimum gap from the opening on the ram pipe to the air box wall ? Do you think it would be a good idea to fit the air temp sensor in the air box ? Thanks again Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saggy Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 No - air temp sensor is for the ambient air temp - so NOT in a forced airstream within the airbox. You need the sensor somewhere out of a draught and away from engine heat so that it records the ambient air temperature of the day - like your weather forecaster. Somewhere say behind a front panel - protected from sources of heat from the vehicle and away from the airstream caused by the travelling vehicle (as well as driving rain!) Be good to see the end result when all fitted ;-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 (edited) Hi Andreas. Is that the minimum gap from the opening on the ram pipe to the air box wall ? Do you think it would be a good idea to fit the air temp sensor in the air box ? Thanks again Mark. Yes that is the minimum space, 20mm would be better and definitely enough although this still looks pretty narrow. I found the best position for air temp sensor is between stock air filter and air tube. That is the place besides the radiator. Just did see the above recommendation: I have it in the airstream, drilled a hole in the tube where filter box and air tube bolts on. -It works- Edited August 24, 2016 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted August 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 Thanks guys. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTOM2498PI Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 These look the absolute biz !!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted August 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 I'll let you know Tom. Fingers crossed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 These look the absolute biz !!! Tom Don't go there and then it happens Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 You know you need them Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTOM2498PI Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 Another one bites the dust no gain Tom apart from empty wallet at the end of the day. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 (edited) Everyone likes shiny new toys....looking good Mark ???? Edited August 26, 2016 by Matt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted August 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 When you say no gain Neil, if you only knew the grief I've had with the great Lucas system you would know why this is the last step or the car goes. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 I converted my TR5 to EFI more than six years ago and do not regret it one bit.I did it as it was nagging at me for years when I had my TR6. Sold my TR6. Went mad and bought a succession of modern powerful motorbikes then Two TR7,s but after all that, missed the six cylinder engine. Bought a wreck (TR5) and fully restored it.After ten years I bit the bullet and converted it to EFI using Emeralds ECU and some parts. The rest was my slant on machined parts etc to make it look like a stock engine to the uninitiated. Jerry Vincent was one of my aspirations as he converted his (TR5) around 12-14 years ago and kindly let me have a drive to see what it was all about.I also fitted power steering which enhances the drive. Others love driving her. Do it your self and the cost is bearable believe me. My other concours winning TR5 is stock and will remain so as I wanted a TR5 as it was from the factory. Nothing wrong with that but a harder drive than my one with all the toys on. Was EFI worth it? OH YES. Regards Harry TR5s Nutter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted August 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Thanks Harry. To be honest I haven't heard one bad report from people that have gone down the EFI route, I'm still having problems with the Lucas and it will have to be sent back to Prestige before I can sell it on. Cheers Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted August 30, 2016 Report Share Posted August 30, 2016 Another one bites the dust no gain Tom apart from empty wallet at the end of the day. But Neil this is Tom. You know he cannot do standard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 30, 2016 Report Share Posted August 30, 2016 (edited) But Neil this is Tom. You know he cannot do standard. Yep next will be steel crank/ upratated rods pistons etc etc Edited August 30, 2016 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOW500 Posted August 30, 2016 Report Share Posted August 30, 2016 Mark. PM sent, Russell Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Iain Rollo Posted August 31, 2016 Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 Yep next will be steel crank/ upratated rods pistons etc etc Hmmm and we know where that ends up! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted August 31, 2016 Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 I think you can get shorter trumpets, which might be worth it as 10mm clearance is very little. They would shorten the inlet uct slightly, and raise the max torque revs slightly, but improve breathing so probably overall benefit. Anyway, with an air box on, you can't see the shiny, shiny bits!! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted August 31, 2016 Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 (edited) The trumpets also reduce 'entry loss': Vizard shows how trumpet shape influences entry losses: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X_j8G7hq4OQ/U5wqYwXf5pI/AAAAAAAAA7k/NY_MRrwDBCI/s1600/VizardVstack001a+(2).tif Jaguar data show how resonant tuning depends upon manifold length: https://www.dieselnet.com/tech/images/diesel/air/~vol_eff.png And all you need to know about air flow around the trumpet mouth: http://www.nsxprime.com/w/images/9/9e/%28Blair_and_Cahoon%29_Design_of_an_intake_bellmouth_Sept._2006.pdf -the importance of the free space in front and to the sides of the trumpet can be seen in the cfd images. Vizard's no 11 profile looks useful if the space in front of the trumpet is restricted. Peter Edited August 31, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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