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Brake Restrictor Valve


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We have been having problems with the brakes and have diagnosed the problem as the brake restrictor valve.

Having spoken to a few people most suggested that we just do without it.

​This doesn't seem ideal and I wondered if it had been put together correctly as the screw part could easily be reversed.

Photo attached, can anyone confirm if this is the correct alignment for all the parts?

 

post-12355-0-78557800-1460564153_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

Many thanks

yours

Tim

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Thanks Bob.....and where would it usually be located?......I might just have left that off 35 years ago..unwittingly :-)

Edited by iain
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It goes between the master cylinder and the rest of the braking system and sits on the multi way manifold on the chassis rail just behind the offside turret.

The theory is that it maintains a very low pressure in the system to keep the pads in light contact with the discs. Practice showed that it made the brakes drag and wasn't required so it was deleted from later models.

I've taken the spring and poppet out of mine.

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Thanks Chaps its there, and I have a very early 3A with 10" rear brakes. Whether the guts are still in the valve I will check. Currently a dry system so no issue to have a look!

What is the current consensus wrt keeping the valve in an operational state?

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That's not where Triumph fitted it.

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/brake-system/brake-controls-hydraulics/brake-pipes-girling-system.html

.....and if they had it wouldn't have restricted the pressure as it actually restricts the return.

Just to check that I'm not in the wrong profession I've done a quick forum search and found that there has been plenty of discussion on this before.

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This valve was always a mistake.

 

A long time ago I had a brake problem. In those days we still had main agents and used them.

 

My local ST agent, Moores of Brighton, removed the valve and I still have the invoice.

 

  • Remove wheels
  • Check calipers
  • New front brake pipe
  • Remove hydraulic restrictor
  • New hose 115459

Total £3.18.10 dated 30.10.1967

 

Those were the days.

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Thanks Chaps its there, and I have a very early 3A with 10" rear brakes. Whether the guts are still in the valve I will check. Currently a dry system so no issue to have a look!

What is the current consensus wrt keeping the valve in an operational state?

With 10 inch yes you will find out in bad road conditions when you hit the brake pedal .

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Just checked and the restrictor is still in place, whether its has the guts I will establish this evening :D

As always many thanks.

 

This valve was always a mistake.

 

A long time ago I had a brake problem. In those days we still had main agents and used them.

 

My local ST agent, Moores of Brighton, removed the valve and I still have the invoice.

 

  • Remove wheels
  • Check calipers
  • New front brake pipe
  • Remove hydraulic restrictor
  • New hose 115459

Total £3.18.10 dated 30.10.1967

 

Those were the days.

 

 

Sounds cheap, about £110 in today's money?

Edited by iain
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Looks like I was wrong to say that it goes in the rear brake line only.

This is often done on other old cars, but perhaps not in this case.

Sorry for any misinformation.

 

Bob.

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The restrictor valve was fitted between the master cylinder and the multiway connector, and intended to maintain a low residual pressure in the hydraulic system to ensure that the front brake pads did not withdraw too far and thus leave a 'long pedal'. Early days of disc brakes, remember, Triumph were pioneers . . . . .

 

Good theory, and it did work initially, but the valve wasn't really necessary and tended not to work correctly for very long - brake fluid not changed regularly, resulting corrosion prevented the valve from working properly.

 

Subsequent owners often refitted the valve incorrectly on rebuild, assuming that it was intended to act on the rear brakes - understandable, neither the TR2/3 workshop manual nor the parts book as printed clarified the fitment adequately. Only those lucky enough to have an ex-dealer book with supplementary service notes would have had a clear understanding.

 

Available from aftermarket suppliers in period was a very different sort of restrictor valve intended to help prevent rear brake lock-up, and fitted between the same multiway connector and the rear brakes - this was not, as far as I'm aware, ever a factory fitment.

 

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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The value of the forum is that we can discuss these issues and get the correct answer. Many heads and all that ...

 

Will take the restrictor out later and see whats in it..........the suspense I know is killing you! :lol:

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Well. Taken apart and low and behold,some minor grime but all the bits there and perfectly serviceable.No rust all very clean when the old bf was washed off.

So these bits have been there for 36 years plus with no attention.....must have been lucky I guess.

 

Question is do I reassemble and see what happens or is the perceived wisdom to leave the guts out and then see what happens?

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If Standard Triumph agents were instructed to remove them the answer must be to remove.

 

My brakes are the least of my recurring problems over the years.

 

I have had no pressure troubles since mine was removed. It has been a long test so we must assume that it is better without.

 

Nowadays there would be a factory recall.

 

Good luck, Richard & H.

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We have been having problems with the brakes and have diagnosed the problem as the brake restrictor valve.

Having spoken to a few people most suggested that we just do without it.

​This doesn't seem ideal and I wondered if it had been put together correctly as the screw part could easily be reversed.

Photo attached, can anyone confirm if this is the correct alignment for all the parts?

 

attachicon.gifBrake restrictor valve.JPG

 

 

 

 

Many thanks

yours

Tim

 

I think your plunger is the wrong way around and your picture doesnt show the copper washers but really you should just gut it and re-fit.

 

Here's how mine looked when dismantled.

 

IMG_1786_zps90ec0fcb.jpg

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I notice that some modern cars have devices built into the calipers to pull the pads away from the disc after braking as a fuel economy measure.

 

Stan

Stan,

This is not much of a problem with hydraulics on both sides of the disc as it is with the newer ones with hydraulics on one side and a mechanical connection on the other.

Tom

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