Glenn_Howard Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Happy New Year everyone! In anticipation of my road trip to the Laon Historique Festival this May, I’ve decided that it’s time to sort out the strange noises coming from the rear of my ’63 TR4. I wonder if you could help me to diagnose where the problem is likely to be? It’s a series of loud knocks, bangs and squeaks which I can only hear when I drive over bumps and into potholes (not deliberately, I might add!). The noise isn’t there when I’m driving on a level road although I’ve sensed some slight ‘movement’ when I drive into bends, like something is slipping at the rear. I’ve already checked that my wire wheels are bolted on securely and that the castellated nut holding the bearings in is set to the correct tightness. I suspect it could either be the rear suspension bushes, the lever shocks, or the links (or all of the above), but I’m not sure how I would go about testing each component. I’m no mechanic but I’m quite happy to wield the spanners when needs must. I just need to know what to look for as I’m loathe (i.e. too tight fisted) to replace everything just for the sake of it! Or... could it be something else? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Regards Glenn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MKTR Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Hi Glenn, I suspect you will get a wide range of possibilities. On my TR4 it was loose bolts that hold on the lever dampers to the chassis. Nothing obvious to move or see but the bolts needed tightening and it sorted out the banging. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Hi Glen, we had similar issues exposed by the rural lanes of Knockholt! Often a large knock or clunk when turning out of a corner / junction under ower. The causes included those that you have highlighted: dampers failing springs not great (leaves sticking) absence of the larger spring washer bushes worn out body mounts needing repair (and that was only the back end !!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 "Something is moving at the rear" Start off by tightening the u bolts holding the rear axle onto the springs. Tighten to the appropriate torque, the progress onto checking and tightening the front spring bush nut and the nuts on the rear of springs drop links. After that go for the shock absorbers links and chassis mountings for the s/a bodies. Then give it a road test before attacking anything else. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 "Something is moving at the rear" Start off by tightening the u bolts holding the rear axle onto the springs. Tighten to the appropriate torque, the progress onto checking and tightening the front spring bush nut and the nuts on the rear of springs drop links. After that go for the shock absorbers links and chassis mountings for the s/a bodies. Then give it a road test before attacking anything else. Mick Richards Reminds me the horror story.... https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1089104818&sk=photos&collection_token=1089104818%3A2305272732%3A69&set=a.10202264632032415.1073741850.1089104818&type=1&l=7ac031b447 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuartmac Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Grab hold of the lever arms and give them a shake - it took me weeks to trace loose mounting bolts as the source of my knocks and bangs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 My tr4 had same kind of sounds, lever arms were end of life. After replacement sounds were gone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 My Guess would be loosening of the shock absorber mounting bolts. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Concur on loose shocker bolts. Got the noises and looked underneath. Shockers seemed tight so looked everywhere else first, then tightened them. Problem solved. But..... A few hundred miles later the problem was back. Really really tightened new bolts etc. plus Loctite. that seemed to work. Later converted to poly bushes new springs and shockers etc as part of planned winter restoration job. This was one of the best things I have ever done to my car. Till then it had been slightly disappointing compared to youthful memories, after it was as good/better. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn_Howard Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Good call chaps! The nuts holding the lever arms on were loose (one was very loose indeed). I replaced them all with new locknuts and oiled the springs while I was there. The result? I found some pot holes to drive into (not hard in north Kent) and there's no more worrying knocks, squeaks or bangs. That was the cheapest fix ever! Thank you all for your advice. Glenn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Glenn, You might want to think about replacing the hex head bolts/screws holding on the dampers with socket cap screws - much easier to hold with an allen key when tightening, as there is very little room beside the damper for a socket. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn_Howard Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Mike... YES, that would be so much easier. I'm definitely going to do that. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Glenn, Loose shocker mounting bolts must be the favourites to check those first. Difficult to get good purchase on the front bolt to hold it, but the bolts must be really tight. IF the noise goes away briefly, then returns, suspect the hole in the chassis mounting to be elongated. Then move onto the other causes mentioned above. Starting with cheapest first - shocker links - then work through the rest of the possibilities. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 (edited) Why didn't we think of that !!! (see above posts) Try to keep up Alan Seriously though, the holes in the mounting plate probably do elongate, & it's asking a lot for the tightened up bolts to hold the shocker still using compression only. I am wondering about the benefits of welding the bolt heads (or conversely the nuts) to the mounting plate rear, thus eliminating movement there. One may have to use socket head bolts if spanner access is not possible on the shocker side ? Bob. Edited January 10, 2016 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Heritage2 Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 I had the same problem with rear knock on bumps and it was the rear damper nuts being loose. I replaced the bolts with Allen head bolts for proper purchase and all seems good now and haven't come loose since. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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