steve26 Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Hi, I purchased my 1958 TR3A in March this year. Having had great fun driving through the summer months I have decided to spend some time tidying the engine bay - cleaning, routing wires etc. The petrol pipe that connects the two carburetors currently passes directly around the air filter from the front carb to the rear. But I see from pictures of other cars, and a diagram in the rimmer book that it seems to be a downwards 'U' bend passing below the filter. My car runs without any problem as it is. But I would appreciate any thoughts as to the reason for the 'U' bend. Regards Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Just neater I think. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 (edited) Just neater I think. Bob. So where is the wiring loom Bob? - hiding it is very neat. You have carbs with push on connectors for the fuel lines (HS type as well) TR3A, which had H types, may have had banjo fitment fuel lines. Push on type fuel lines dropped below the air filters. The banjo type went over the top. Fit what is neat and most pleasing to you. Peter W Edited November 27, 2015 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 (edited) Mine: Edited November 27, 2015 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 So where is the wiring loom Bob? - hiding it is very neat. You have carbs with push on connectors for the fuel lines (HS type as well) TR3A, which had H types, may have had banjo fitment fuel lines. Push on type fuel lines dropped below the air filters. The banjo type went over the top. Fit what is neat and most pleasing to you. Peter W Photo taken before wiring loom went in ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Steve If you have HS6´s like my 58 TR3A then you have a tee piece in the main line before the front carb, to serve the rear one as there are differences in the float chamber tops, to say nothing of the throttle linkage. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 (edited) Steve If you have HS6´s like my 58 TR3A then you have a tee piece in the main line before the front carb, to serve the rear one as there are differences in the float chamber tops, to say nothing of the throttle linkage. Dave Not necessarily (see my photo above) front carb has fuel in, & fuel out, rear carb has just fuel in. Not shown in photo is that now, both have overflow pipes going to below chassis Bob. Edited November 28, 2015 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Not necessarily (see my photo above) front carb has fuel in, & fuel out, rear carb has just fuel in. Not shown in photo is that now, both have overflow pipes going to below chassis Bob. There are a shed load of different HS type float lids with varying inlet/outlet/overflow arrangements - I too have inlet at the front with feed on to the rear without using a fuel line T peice. see this link http://sucarb.co.uk/float-chambers-spares/float-lid-assemblies/hs-float-lids.html Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve26 Posted November 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Thankls all for your input to my question. My carbs are also fuel in / out on front, with fuel in only on the rear carb. Does raise another question - re overflow pipes, most appear to be angled towards the air filters, however Bob has now apparently routed his to below the chassis? Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 I take my overflow pipes via a tee piece to just below the chassis. I think I used an overflow pipe kit from a Stag of all things as it was cheaper than buying the piping, rubber connectors and tee piece individually. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 (edited) I firstly purchased two new float chambers ( see Bulins link above) which a. had the correct orientation to suit my situation (HS6 in a TR3) & b. had additional pipes to route any overflow away I then made my own pipework to connect to b. above, both going into a "T" & then down to below chassis, I used nylon air hose pipe of the correct ID. Bob. Edited November 28, 2015 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Before we go too far down parallel SU paths it might be useful to confirm exactly what carbs are on your car. The float lid style on the SU H6 carbutettors on my and Menno's cars is the "flat" type, part number AUC 410 (different from the HS6 link Bob has provided). Burlen tell me they replaced this one with the domed type, probably due to cracking in the flat type. Not all of the bits may be available new, but lots of used parts are out there. The most well-know TR carburettor rebuilder in the US is probably Joe Curto. His website shows a number of photos of all kinds of British carburettors. HERE's the TR3 H6-late page. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 My 1958 TR3A (TS 27489 LO) came brand new with the banjo fittings used on earlier TR3s and TR3As. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Peter W Thanks for that chart I will print it off and add it to my spares book incase I ever need to replace one. Mine each have two connections, one is fuel in and the other is the overflow which I also lead to below the chassis in copper pipe for anti fire risk should I get a flooding, not into the filters which at the time I thought looked dangerous. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Does raise another question - re overflow pipes, most appear to be angled towards the air filters, however Bob has now apparently routed his to below the chassis? The 'original' routing of overflow into the filters is a recipe for fire if you get a serious overflow problem which is all too possible with the rapid degradation of some rubber fuel lines with modern petrol. My overflow pipes were routed down to the inner wing area but during one MOT it was noted that there was a significant overflow and a potential fire risk if fuel got onto the hot exhaust system. It would have been an MOT failure but I extended the pipes down to below the chassis so both my MOT man and I feel a lot safer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
T Rusty Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 I am trying to reach "Lebro"...My "new" 1957 Tr3,TS 16454 L, under the rust and various colors seems to be the same blue as yours. The official manufacturers certificate does not list the colour. Would you mind sharing the colour code with me? I haven't been able to find it. Thanks, Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hi Paul. Not a Triumph colour I'm afraid, can't give you a code, but mine was painted in a British Leyland colour - "Teal Blue" paint was 2 pack. Hope this helps Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
T Rusty Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Thanks Bob. Nice colour. I'm probably two years away from painting so still have time to think about it. Thanks again, Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Speaking of overflow pipes, on my TR2 with H4 SUs, I am switching from the short curved pipes routed into the filter to long straight pipes running down to the chassis. Can someone advise how (or if) the long pipes should be anchored down at the bottom? Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) You can opt for copper pipes, but flexible hose (rubber) works good too. Start with copper pipes, bent downwards and attach the rubber fuel hoses. Make sure they run down, about an inch lower than the bottom of the chassis. No rocket science here. Menno Edited November 30, 2015 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 I use a cable tie around the chassis leg. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Speaking of overflow pipes, on my TR2 with H4 SUs, I am switching from the short curved pipes routed into the filter to long straight pipes running down to the chassis. Can someone advise how (or if) the long pipes should be anchored down at the bottom? Cheers Dan Dan, I routed my overflow pipes through a couple of holes in the inner wing to discharge under the wheel arch. Not original and yes it involves drilling the inner wing but it solves the problem of a length of pipe hanging down unsupported. Happy to post a picture if anyone is interested. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 When bridging the pipes from one part of the car (engine + chassis) to the body there's a risk that both parts of the car don't 'interact' and that the copper pipe will come loose. A solution can be a loop in the copper pipe from the carbs to the inner wing - more or less like the thermostat line from the thermostat to the gauge on the dash. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Menno, I totally agree with you about relative movement between the engine and the body. My overflow pipes are narrow bore and pass through grommets that allow them to move with the engine. The alternative would have been coils similar to the thermostat line. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.