JohnG Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 All Good evening I want to get to the underside of my '75 6, but do not have the luxury of a pit or lift. As a result I have to work with a jack and axle stands. As this is my 1st time jacking this car, can I ask the advice of the forum, before I start. I have both a trolley jack and a bottle jack. How is it best to jack the front and then the rear in turn? Where should I position the jack each time? Where should I be aware of potential for damage when jacking? I have been told that 6's do not like to be jacked up corner at a time Is this the case? Once she is up, where is it best to position the stands? Very many thanks in advance John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 don't know if this is right or wrong but this is how I jacked by car up off all 4 wheels (i have two trolley jacks) from the front put one jack under each chassis rail where the front wishbone is located raise the jacks steadily and equally until the front wheels are about 3 inches of the ground put sturdy axle stands under the chassis and lower the jacks move to the rear and again use the two trolley jacks roughly level with the rear wheels until the tyres are about 8 inches above the ground put axle stands under the chassis just ahead of the jacks and carefully lower move back to the front and repeat the lifting until the wheels are the same height are the rear adjust the front axle stands to suit harder to explain the carry out gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 I dont jack centrally on the front chassis crossmember. Jacking either side alongside the gearbox at the 'triple junction' allows me to put the axle stands under the spring uprights, between wishbones. At the rear I jack either side, as far forward along the chassis as possible alongside the trailing arm, and put axle stands at the rear, or sometimes wood blocks under the trailing arm chassis. I dont trust old steel so always put ramps or more wooden blocks under the chassis before going under. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Ashworth Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Hi Gary, Ensure that the doors are closed properly and DON'T open them once it is jacked up, as they probably won't close again. All the best, Dave. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 (edited) Interesting Dave. My aim was to keep the jack and axle stand locations as close to the suspension mounts as possible. My thinking is that this replicates the loading when the car is on its wheels. Certainly when I had the car in the air over Xmas to change the exhaust and strip out the radio, opening the doors to get the seats out to sort out the wiring was no problem. Gary Edited January 28, 2015 by grumpy2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Hi John, be mindful that whatever method you use there will be a certain amount of rotation (about the front or rear axle stands) this can make them lean. Keep an eye on all the jacks/stands etc for any movement.. Have you considered ramps? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Thanks all Peter The front cross member looks as though someone has jacked centrally. It does not appear to have done the cross member any good. Yes, blocks for added comfort, and, when I take the wheels off, they go under the car as well. Better busted wheels than a busted back! Roger Ramps I would prefer, but, the car rides lowish, (courtesy of a PO) and getting onto the ramps will mean extentions. SWMBO is beginning to add up the card receipts as they come in, not something I had planned on If I can get an initial look underneath, I will then be able to make an informed decision for the long term, if there is significant work needed then it will have to be ramps and stands (for when the wheels have to come off) Is my comment about TR's not taking well to being jacked at a corner valid? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Think jacking as close to the points in the chassis that link mechanically to the suspension is the way to go.. between the wishbone mounts at the front and near as possible to the spring mounts at the rear (but not the diff).. Doing this I have never had issues with doors not closeing even with my very wrotten chassis.. Hopefully the beautiful new chassis should be even more rigid.. Tim PS ramps and or wheels stacked underneath are good for safety Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Hi John, as per the others, but i lower mine down on the small car ramps, putting one the opposite way round, so no chance of rolling off.....this puts no more strain on the chassis than it normally has stood on the ground.Good to work under too,,,, i am dreaming of a two post ramp too. Cheers, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I have tried to post a pic but alas it will not upload? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 All Thanks for all the sound advice Decision made; I will be getting a 2nd trolley jack soonest, then, if there is more than just a little work underneath, some ramps to drop her onto, otherwise, I will just use the axle stands. I have been looking at prices and 1/2 decent kit is not going to break the bank John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Hi John, when looking at a new trolley jack get one that will lift the wheels/tyres high enough to allow the ramp to slide underneath in one go. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 And one Low enough to go Under the Chassis,some of the Alloy Racing Jacks are the better options. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SteveB21 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 A very useful thread on a question I was about to ask myself - off to get a 2nd trolley jack as well now and I agree with the need for a low profile one based on recent experience trying to get a 5" min. height one under the front chassis. I see SGS have a 2te one discounted down to £33, plus they sell rubber jacking pad inserts, which seem a good idea. Cheers Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 whilst on the subject I cannot recommend the 1.25 ali racing jacks. I have one and compared to my cheaper 3 ton steel jack its very hard work to use. both mine a from machine mart, the ali one was about £100 and the steel one £90. The steel one also lifts more quickly and higher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 not recommended https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-ctj1250ab-1-25-tonne-aluminium-racing-j recommended https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/ctj3qlg-3-t-quick-lift-pro-trolley-jac gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Steve Yes, just ordered a jack from the very same people. Looking at new axle stands, going to go for 3 tonne rachet type and will order these in a day or 2 I'm probably going to just go the whole hog, incur the wrath of SWMBO and get a pair of ramps with low clearance extentions, at least this way I can get the car off the ground and still shut the door on my small garage. The green eyed God is present here whenever I see pictures of TR6's in 2 / 3 car garages or barns with all the room a guy could ask for. Hey ho John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Hi John, boggo ramps with a bit of scaffold plank in front to ease the climb might do the job . . . . . If you're not in a hurry I think I have a spare pair of scruffy old ones lurking somewhere, and I'd guess we'll be over in Maldon in a couple of months' time - SWMBO might not notice a couple of beers rather than a card receipt ? Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Alec SWMBO would be blissfully unaware of the passing of a beer or 3, it's the only bit of training I have managed Seriously, if you have them, a monitary donation to your coffers would not be out of the question If you do manage to get down this way, please let me know (with or without ramps) there is some good beer in Maldon BR John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grabea Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 I use a set of standard ramps I've owned for years and simply put a 12" length of timber about 6" wide and an inch or thereabouts thick to ease up the first bit, I found that I need the extension for just about everything including my Bentley Turbo R and it works a treat, had to add a length of 2x1 under the middle when getting the Bentley on as it's a bit heavier Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted February 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Trolley jack from SGS arrived today, nice . . . all black and shiney Collecting a pair of ratchet axle stands (rated at 2 tonnes each) from Euro Car Parts tomorrow for under £22.00, including the dreaded VAT There are cheaper on the net, but carriage charges jack the price up Once I have them, I can get some quality time under the wings! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Test to see if upload is working Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted February 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 (edited) Neil Many thanks for the diagram . . . . . Saved! I now have 2 jacks My reasoning was; She is a low slung sports car, with most of its weight in the engine bay and jacking on a single point could get lairy. I have been lead to believe that 6's do not like to be jacked at a single corner so a straight lift is important Is single jacking as per your diagram reasonably stable? Where do I positon the 2 jacks, so that the jacks are not in the way when I set the axle stands? Thanks John Edited February 3, 2015 by wjgco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 John Yes it is at the front but use some wood to protect,as for the rear if?your jack is low enough use the centre of the diff if not use both jacks under the rear trailing arms Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted February 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 (edited) Thanks Neil I have specific pieces of timber for specific jobs already, so, I will add a couple more to the stock I also plan to make some low adjustable (3" - 5" high) timber ramps so that I can quickly raise one end of the car safely, without having to jack, when I need to get to the 'almost accessible' places. I plan to use 180mm wide x 1" thick timber planking, which can stack, held together using steel dowels I have a small, single car garage and need kit I can use that is flexible John Just noticed the mix of metric and imperial . . . .do it all the time in my head! Edited February 3, 2015 by wjgco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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