grumpy2 Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Hi anyone fitted the kit with any advice to offer before I start the job next week thanks in advance gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Gary, what is Type C , if its the Moss kits they are type 1,2,3 or is it someone eles's kit, please clarify Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 The 6 piece typ routed through luggage compartment? In my opinion the best type and no problem to fit. I have modified types for my BILSTEIN shocks on both TR6 in use. Only the side of the PI pump need a little bit of attention to get access. Easiest way is to remove tank but with an little angle driller and a small driller the necessary marks to find the proper holes can be easily made, too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Yep is the moss kit type 3 or c, with 6 pieces that go through the boot Not really looking forward to the drilling through bodywork but I believe other members consider the kit to be the best one on offer The fitting instructions are a bit odd though so I'm just looking for experiences Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 None should be bolted through the bodywork. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Gary, many would agree with Neil, in my experience the type 2, ie a bracket that bolts to the chassis where the lever arms are located is best. This is because the original suspension is located both front and rear to the cars chassis, which is designed to provide the robust mounting that suspension requires.Given the work done by these components and the relative weakness of the body you can see why many prefer to locate any replacement suspension parts to the chassis. Have a look at the Remington, Tr shop, TRGB and many others who only provide these upgrades mounted to chassis. As ever the choice is individual. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTOM2498PI Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Agreed, do not like the ones that bolt through the wheel arch. Best to buy the mounting kit that picks up existing lever arms points on chassis, and some, the bump stop. TR Shop do some very heavy duty brackets.Very well made. Racetorations do some lightweight alloy ones. I have tried and tested both. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 If using the type 2 that attaches to the original mounting positions then be careful of your wheel choices and camber settings. With a decent load the tyres can scrub on the damper. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) Just to understand the type 3 correct: It also bolts on the original points where the levers have been. But than it rootes the better way and is much stiffer than the other types because there is more space for better structure and its the direct way the force takes. On its way through the body it stiffens the body and adds one more point to connect the body to the chassis. No doubt, it is more work to fit but it pays back with better engineering. I tried out all three types and the lever dampers and different telescopic dampers, the KONI, the Spax and at last the BILSTEIN. Would not do that work on my second TR6 if there is no advantage and believe me the advantage is really big! Edited December 19, 2014 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Just to understand the type 3 correct: It also bolts on the original points where the levers have been. But than it rootes the better way and is much stiffer than the other types because there is more space for better structure and its the direct way the force takes. On its way through the body it stiffens the body and adds one more point to connect the body to the chassis. No doubt, it is more work to fit but it pays back with better engineering. I tried out all three types and the lever dampers and different telescopic dampers, the KONI, the Spax and at last the BILSTEIN. Would not do that work on my second TR6 if there is no advantage and believe me the advantage is really big! Bilstein01.jpg You will end up with seam crack's and where is the bump stop? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 I have rebuilt my lever arms, but looking at the geometry surely the best idea would be coil overs ...does anyone do such a mod? I must admit the TUV approved shock kit looks ok. The ones that bolt though the body must transmit the loads through the shell to the chassis mounts, tested obviously but I'm still a bit sceptical. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) You will end up with seam crack's and where is the bump stop? I can not agree to that opinion. Three main reasons make me think different: 1.) The item looks much more stable than the other units. 2.) I have the first set in use for 6 years, the second for two years, with the SPAX I was driving this first Type "3" earlier for more than 20 years. If length is designed properly nothing will break, definitely not! 3.) I designed bump rate of shocks and whole setup properly that heavy bumps opposite to "normal" dampers are smoothed out without jumping off the seat what I had to suffer earlier with the levers. I have two bump stops built in: The first is the stock one, located behind the brake drum the second is inside the shock dust cover and hits on the damper what is especially designed for that. This is the former Spax and the bump stop is arrowed Edited December 19, 2014 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 The ones that bolt though the body must transmit the loads through the shell to the chassis mounts, tested obviously but I'm still a bit sceptical. The type "3" has an intersection in the trunk. The three pieces perform a perfect arm for the telecopic damper and would exactely work same way if mounted together on bare chassis without the body in place. The set is only cut into threee pieces that it fits without cutting sheets of metall out of the trunk and inner wing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 didn't intend this to turn into another 'which is best' thread, I did that some months ago and found little consensus other than the type A or 1 is the worse. I chose the kit I have because I have 195 tyres and want a fraction of extra clearance, also the balance of advice I received earlier suggested this was the best setup, although also the most complicated. I have some specific areas of interest... does the tank have to be removed?, if not how were the holes located and drilled? what should I paint the brackets with before fitting?, or after?? what initial setting on the dampers, hard, soft or middle? cheers Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 The type "3" has an intersection in the trunk. The three pieces perform a perfect arm for the telecopic damper and would exactely work same way if mounted together on bare chassis without the body in place. The set is only cut into threee pieces that it fits without cutting sheets of metall out of the trunk and inner wing. Cheers Andreas I understand that now.Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Daven (Post #11): FYI - Revington places the damper inside the coil spring at the rear of IRS cars. Dampers specially made for the job to Neil's specification. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) I have some specific areas of interest... does the tank have to be removed?, if not how were the holes located and drilled? what should I paint the brackets with before fitting?, or after?? what initial setting on the dampers, hard, soft or middle? I am on 205/65 with no clearance issues and have additional bigger 50mm thick dampers. Camber is only 1 degree because more looks ugly in my opinion. To remove the tank helps but is not necessary. I used an Accudriller with a little angle drive and a bitsdrill to fit. Start with the part under the trunk and fiddle from below into the trunk and than drill that hole bigger and fitt the inner angle part. Than you can fiddle between tank and inner wing and drill a little hole through the inner part to locate and than from the outside the bigger holes. The parts come painted black if I remember right and maybe will like a respray. SPAX have been set to 5th click but that is personal taste. Anyway fully open is a bit weak but as you can see from the 2nd picture with the SPAX access is easy. Edited December 19, 2014 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 If using the type 2 that attaches to the original mounting positions then be careful of your wheel choices and camber settings. With a decent load the tyres can scrub on the damper. Roger For someone who has inherited a car w type 2 (Spax) & camber/wheel/scrubbing issues.... What recipe do you use? Currently have 185 tyres on minilites but decent 185s hard to come by these days. Putting 205s on would simplify tyre choices significantly but if they scrub on 185s... (Spacers aren't an option in NZ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 (edited) For someone who has inherited a car w type 2 (Spax) & camber/wheel/scrubbing issues.... What recipe do you use? There are many solutions, anyway the problem is not the principle how the damper is fitted but the damper itself, where I use big 50mm dampers with no problem. If you already have set the camber to 1 degree as I mentioned above I would than go for less inset of wheels. If spacers are forbidden, the wire wheels can be modified to get more than 10mm more offset. If you have steel wheels the center can be cut out and reset with more offset. Also a good chance to change to 6.5" outside rims from Mercedes and connect/weld them to the inner part of the wheel. Sounds crazy but was often done here in Germany and never heard of trouble. For motorsports I used such wheels by myself that were extended by fitting a tubular sheet of metal into the rim to come from 5" to 7.5" and also a reset of the inner part was necessary for the proper inset. All that was cheap and reliable. The last option is to set trailing arm outside maybe by help of the brackets or simply adding shims behind the brackets. TR6 in my opinion looks best anyway when end of the wheel is just plain under the wing. This setup will work with 205/65 and bigger dampers without touching anything: Edited March 28, 2015 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 (edited) I fitted the type 2 or B kit non TUV apprv. to a TR6 with 195/65/15 tyres on standard steel rims - no issues with tyre touching. It had the uprated strength but std height springs fitted - TT4212. Peter W PS MattNZ - Here are 12 options for the 195/65/15 just down the road from you. http://beaurepaires.co.nz/Find-a-store/6576/ Edited December 21, 2014 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 Hi! I used the original type1s over 30 years ago with Spax Shocks, Moss 390lb spring rate springs, 6J Cobra Super Slots with 205/60/15 tyres. These type 1s were used for 25 years, my only criticism of them was with the body mounting only part. There was always a bit of banging and crashing from the rear end on certain road surfaces. I had no problems with clearances etc. but note that my car is a CR type which has different rear suspension geometry to CP cars. When one of the springs started to sag on one side, I looked at replacing the type 1s as well as the springs. Reviewing what was available in the market which included the type 3s, I went for the CTM type which mount directly to the old lever arm shock mounts and the old chassis bump stop mount ( 3 point fixing to the chassis ). The reason I did not go for the type 3, I was still not convinced that they are made out of a heavy enough gauge of steel and with the CTMs having much thicker steel and having the 3 mount fixing to the chassis, you only have to compare them side by side. The springs were replaced with Moss 420lb as they did not have any 390s and did not know when along with a new set of Spax. Still no problems with clearance. My wife certainly noticed the difference in ride. Lastly I would not use the Revington type ( shock within the spring) as the top spring mounts have to be re-enforced to stop splitting, a known problem !!! Bruce. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 (edited) I fully agree with Triumphv8 Many years ago I fitted the type 3 with Konis to my 6. Since, the car drives like a tram on rails, it just goes where you want it to go. In my fiend's garage I have seen a number of broken,cracked chassis members on which towers were fitted.. With suspension movement the towers flex at the top and to prevent this you will have to bolt them firmly to the wheel arch or add an additional strut from the top to the rear chassis, the only solutions to safe your day I would like to add that this brackets are custom-made, not the usual stock product.. Edited December 22, 2014 by jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Used these for 15+years and never had an issue. AXL 405. http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page96.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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