YOW500 Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 The distance under the tank to the bodywork is very tight to make a nice bend using the manufactured pipe, with the ends attached, and using a bending tool. I have looked at two cars nearby and in each case the pipes are kinked, and just touching the bodywork below the tank. Has anyone found a nice way of making a tight bend at this location please. Thank you Russell Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 I've seen a wiper rack used as a pipe bending spring. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Hi Russell ~ I had no problems forming the new copper pipes in my TR3A. If you PM me your eMail address I'll send you a photo. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOW500 Posted October 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Tom. PM sent. Thank you. Russ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOW500 Posted October 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Peter. PM sent. Russell Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Sorry wrong pipe. I saw the rack used for 5/16 front to back fuel line not the 1/4 master cyl feeds. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 If you search this forum you will find that this is quite a common problem. If you fill the pipes with fine sand you will find that they can be bent without collapsing or kinking. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Ian is right but make sure you anneal the pipe first so its nice and soft. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 anneal = heat with blowlamp till very hot, then plunge into cold water (for those that may not know) Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Any thoughts in this: http://www.fedhillusa.com/ I bought a roll of something similar when I did some piping on a non- British car. Don't even know if mine is the same but it had the same sort of advertising claims and I found it almost almost impossible to kink. Of course, you'd have to supply end fittings and have proper flaring equipment. Also cannot confirm if tube size (standard fractional) would be the same. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Use an old inner speedo cable Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOW500 Posted October 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Thank you all. Job now done with the aid of a made up tool to bend 35mm dia, and annealing. A nice tight bend starting close to the fitting and missing the body. Russell Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 +1 on the speedo cable in conjunction with one of these used carefully you can get smooth tight bends with ease. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Pipe-Bending-Pliers-Automotive-Brake-Pipe-Bender-Work-Tools-/300883317500?pt=UK_Baby_BabyFeedingUtensils_EH&hash=item460e0b12fc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) The ones I tubes I bent to fit in 1989 during my restoration are made of steel - plated with "white zinc" I used the original ones to get the bends correct. Granted that copper tubes are softer and more likely to kink. So I bought long lengths of standard steel brake tubing and these came with a coil spring around the outside of the tubing. I checked that at least one end of these tubes had the correct flare needed for the end securing nuts. With the outer coil spring, I found it was quite easy to bend the steel tubing to the correct curves. Then I cut it to length and slid off the coil spring, slid on the second securing nut and set the flare. See before (1987) with 80,000 miles on the TR and a more recent photo after another 94,000 miles. Edited October 30, 2014 by Don Elliott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dwaters Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Dear All I have just rebuilt my cylinder assembly, trying to get the pipe rads as tight as possible under the tank. I am still worried about clearance when installed. Can someone please tell me the max measurement from the 'kitchen table' to the top of the lid? Many thanks, David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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