Steves_TR6 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Steve, I checked my rear CV axle today, the play detected at MOT was not the bearings just a slightly loose wire wheel..! so no regrets fitting mine some years/miles ago john Thanks for the update Johnny. On balance I think that I will go for the CV shafts, as opposed to buying uprated hubs and Proptech shafts which is the alternative. Watch out for a new 'rear hubs and shafts' thread :-) Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Steve They are the last things I would ever fit not for me ta.Just my opinion Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 (edited) Just take it easy on those Yorkie bends Neil ! http://www.kolumbus.fi/triumph.tr6pi/highlights/broke-rear-shaft.html This is useful if you eventually fit them Steve as they need careful measurement...... http://www.kolumbus.fi/triumph.tr6pi/highlights/tr-nord-shaft-installation.html I don't see the big nut torque mentioned though.... The hub nut needs to be tightened to 180 to 210 ft/lbs, inner end to diff flange tighten to 20 to 25 ft/lbs. Just wait for the Moss sale.....pays next years membership too...... john Edited May 21, 2014 by johnny250 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Steve They are the last things I would ever fit not for me ta.Just my opinion Same here. Steve remember what I said to you. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alan57 Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Proptech shafts and cosworth type shafts work - and last!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I do appreciate the advice against cv joints, especially from two people that I trust. However I've decided to try the CDD shafts and hubs, let's see how it goes..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTOM2498PI Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I have tried and tested the CV joints with uprated drive shafts, as per below:- http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 10+ track days, 193BHP, 200lbs lbs ft, Round Britain Reliability runs -2000 miles in 48hrs, X2 10 Countries run, - 10 EU countries in 4 days, through the Alps, several passes, 130MPH (GPS recorded), and 20K miles without a single issue. At the same time, also tried and test Cosworth / Quaife hubs, as per D. Vessey, no issues either. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Proptech shafts and cosworth type shafts work - and last!! Yep and you will not contaminate them and never bust,biggest failure at mot time (granted most front wheel drive is cv joints ) but they fail on the rear also. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Proptech shafts and cosworth type shafts work - and last!! Yep, works for me too. Graeme (CV free) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith Warren Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Hi I removed mine using a section of tube in the vice with pressure on then heating up with a 2kw hot air gun, popped out quickly. Cheers Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 I notice 2 or 3 posts on this topic advising against fitting CV joints at the rear......care to tell us why not? Regards, Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 Did you also notice the post's from people who have fitted them?. I also fitted CV joints (from a Nissan Skyline) and am very happy with them, they're good for 300HP and I'm nowhere near that. I too, would be interested in the reasons for not fitting them. Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTOM2498PI Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 As per above in my comments, they are very well engineered, and mine are tried and tested, with regular use of 6500RPM + and no complaints. The race boys use the Quaife hubs / Cosworth shafts, which are tried and tested without any issues either, with cars that produce 240+BHP. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 I have the Goodparts set, not tried or tested yet, but never heard any negative feedback so far. Has anyone heard of a common failure problem? Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
junk yard dog Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 i'm interested in this modification/improvement does anyone have experience of fitting subaru or nissan diffs to match the good parts shafts john. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Rear hubs/shafts arrived today, look well engineered. Car is pretty much ready for the diff to go back in, then these, then the brakes..... Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Steve, Yes, I see what you mean! Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Despite it being a drisly day, and the TR is on my drive as garage is full of motorbikes...., I thought I would make a start on the rear end rebuild! First job was to make a small wooden cradle for the diff, so it would sit squarely on the trolley jack. This was just three bits of wood screwed together and with a hole in the right place for the diff drain plug, what do you mean you haven't got a drain plug ? :-) Removed the rear anti roll bar, slightly tricky with one very bent bolt, and the diff manoeuvred into position with relative ease. I got the new rear diff mounts is after some 'jiggling' and the fronts went in no problem after that ( I secured the upper fronts in place in advance) So bolstered by my success I pressed on! The new shafts and hubs fitted beautifully, I mean they really did 'bolt straight in' So on with the brakes and exhaust. Four hours on my own to refit it all :-) I still have to torque things up, replace the lost brake adjuster 'cone' ( andrew thinks he has a spare one), then a full brake bleed and we should be back on the road :-) Here's a couple of pics. Shall report back when I've had a 'test drive' Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Looking good Steve, should certainly give you peace of mind. Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Nice job its on my list of next thing to do, the diff(whining) and the drive shafts too. well when i get the o/d to work.......DOH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Clarkey, I rebuilt my diff and there was a slight whine when I first ran it, (there was a big whine when I spent money on it from my wife... .). The whine has now gone (wife is still here though), bedding in did the trick (the diff not the wife). Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Well I finished fitting and tightening up this afternoon, the out for the test drives. Result , excellent ! Nice smooth drive, no clonks or other noises. Suspension does seem smoother on and off the power, due to no more spline lock up or did I imagine this? I had a bit of an issue with one of the drum brakes, drum was a tight fit even with the adjuster backed fully out. Any thoughts on that? ( new wheel cylinders moving smoothly on the back plates, new shoes) Bled the brakes fully and they're working well. Diff doesn't seem to be leaking :-) So I'm very pleased. Will have a longer test run at the weekend, after checking everything is tight and that drum brake isn't binding. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 Hres a photo of the BIG axle nut looking through the minilight wheel. ...and one of the newly non leaking diff :-) Steve Ps, I'm wondering if the binding drum brake could be caused by one of the adjuster 'cones' not being seated correctly, they have a slot for the brake shoe to fit into so if misaligned would case the shoe to fit further out?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 All looks good Steve, Nice job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 (edited) Hres a photo of the BIG axle nut looking through the minilight wheel. image.jpg ...and one of the newly non leaking diff :-) image.jpg Steve Ps, I'm wondering if the binding drum brake could be caused by one of the adjuster 'cones' not being seated correctly, they have a slot for the brake shoe to fit into so if misaligned would case the shoe to fit further out?? The cones will self centre them selves onto the adjuster screw due to there shape. You may well not have the shoe in the slot but that difference is quite noticeable when re- fitting. Whose drums are they? There are some poor ones around. Stuart. Edited May 30, 2014 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.