martinjohn Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Anyone know how to adjust front wheel to a positive camber if there are no shims to remove on the lower wishbone arms to chassis brackets,on a tr6. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 I believe standard is slightly negative camber. If you have mo shims to remove then it may be the springs are dictating the camber so a change here may help. Also you can buy adjustable top suspension fulcrum pins, which allow adjustment, Moss and TRF in the US sell them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alan57 Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 BUT - why on earth do you imagine positive camber is needed???????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Positive camber ~ NO! Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Perhaps Martin is wanting to correct for excessive negative camber. In which case check that the upper wishbone pivot is the right way round. I can't recall which way is correct for the 6 but someone will remember. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
martinjohn Posted December 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 well i am pretty sure that i saw a positive camber figure quoted somewhere on the internet,but having looked at my old intereurope workshop manual it does say1/4 degree neg plus or minus 1/2 a degree,whether this is with the car loaded and with what load or whether its with no load is not stated. At the moment with a quick check in the unloaded state using a magnetic angle finder its coming out at approx 2.1/2 to 3 degrees,but of coures if one wanted to reduce this then how is this possible if there are no shims to remove. i will replace the top wishbone bushes with new ones and then re-measure. The question still remains and that is what is the preferred camber angle for general road use. Regards Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 (edited) I used 1 degree neg on my 6 and that is what I have on the 4A. Nice and stable at any speed. Check your upper wishbone mounting though, it can be fitted two ways which will affect camber. Edited December 22, 2013 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Until you have the car on its wheels and in the correct loaded road going position its a waste of time trying to measure anything. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
martinjohn Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Yes It seems to me to be a bit of an unknown science, but I think the best is to load up the car with some bags of concrete comparable to the weight of the average person and the re-check the camber and adjust to 1 degree negative if possible. I have checked the upper wishbone mounting and it is the right way around. It possible that all this has been caused by our pot holed roads. Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Do you have the cross bar in place between the the two suspension turrets in front of the engine timing cover? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 As Stuart said unless you establish the correct ride height you are wasting your time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 According to the official(Blue, Loose Leaf) TR4/4A/5 workshop manual 150lbs are required to be placed on both front seats before any suspension or steering measurements are taken, I'm guessing that a similar loading is required for a TR6. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
martinjohn Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Thanks Rob I will try that weight ,as you said the cars are of a similar weight and i should think plus or minus a few pounds would not make that much difference to the spring compression. So much also depends on the accuracy of the measuring gauge and the way its carried out, lets face it you cant really expect the same ride and response as a modern car. Regards Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Martin You are barking up the wrong tree,all the measurements are in the book's do you know what springs you have? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spiro Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Upper wish bone fulcrum brackets are opposite way on the TR6 to that shown for earlier cars likes of the TR4a's and TR5's. Which will have effect and alter camber but again true measuments with car fully assembled and all wheels on the ground. Cheers Spiro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Upper wish bone fulcrum brackets are opposite way on the TR6 to that shown for earlier cars likes of the TR4a's and TR5's. Which will have effect and alter camber but again true measuments with car fully assembled and all wheels on the ground. Cheers Spiro Spiro, This is incorrect. All TR4A, 250, 5 and 6 have the fulcrum brackets the same. Only the TR4 is different. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
martinjohn Posted December 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 I have standard road springs on the front,This all started when i noticed that when driving a reasonable speed and applying the brakes the car would want to pull to the n/s.I have replaced the front brake calipers on both sides double checked them and bled them,there is definitly no air in the system.I do wonder sometimes with reproduced parts that equal efficiency particulary with brake parts can be questionable. Anyway thats why i started to look at the nearside bushes and camber and i need something to do over the christmas holiday. Regards Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 I have standard road springs on the front,This all started when i noticed that when driving a reasonable speed and applying the brakes the car would want to pull to the n/s.I have replaced the front brake calipers on both sides double checked them and bled them,there is definitly no air in the system.I do wonder sometimes with reproduced parts that equal efficiency particulary with brake parts can be questionable. Anyway thats why i started to look at the nearside bushes and camber and i need something to do over the christmas holiday. Regards Martin Could well be bushes - whats the tyre wear pattern? How old are the bushes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trtyme Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 Reviving an old thread. Rebuilt the front (and rear) suspension few months ago, all new. I remember the right side had a couple shims, left side none, ZERO shims either side now. Have driven a hundred miles or so. Checking from camber I stood a level next to the tires. Right side straight up and down. Left side 1/4 inch in at the top, negative which I think is good. Any easy way to get 1/4" negative on the right side? I haven't checked toe in out yet but looks straight. Thanks Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaelfinnis Posted December 22, 2020 Report Share Posted December 22, 2020 Hi, according to the official workshop manual camber is 1/2 deg. pos +/- 1 deg. unladen or 0 deg. +/- 1/2 deg. loaded(two up)for a PI car. Carb cars are 1/4 deg. pos +/- 1deg. unladen or 1/4 deg. neg. +/- 1/2 deg. loaded. I assume the differences are due to different weights and tyre sizes. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted December 22, 2020 Report Share Posted December 22, 2020 13 hours ago, trtyme said: Any easy way to get 1/4" negative on the right side I haven't checked toe in out yet but looks straight. Put the shims back in to push the lower wishbone out which will increase negative camber. You can't verify toe-in by sight I'm afraid. It needs to be measured. You'll also need to measure the rear geometry, or you will have a very ill-handling car indeed. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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