Jersey Royal Posted November 26, 2012 Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 (edited) Hi All, I decided to replaced worn out seat covers , and in doing so found some repairs were in order on one of the seat frame base. I havent as yet completed the welding but nearly. The new covers arrived today. Will try to post up some photos tomorrow. For the spring base i have some foam and a nice cover for the spring base itself. I have had a quick go at gitting the new cover, it aint going to be easy due to the profile shape or slope of the base. So anyone any tips please.. Cheers Guy Edited November 26, 2012 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Hi Guy, Not a TR3, but Mark Even recovers some MGB seats on ‘An MG is Born’ may be provide some useful tips: Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 (edited) Duplicate - see above post. Edited November 27, 2012 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Hi Guy, How to Restore Triumph TR2, 3, 3A, 4 and 4A: Body, Trim and Mechanical ... - Roger Williams - Google Books. page 166 http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA180&lpg=PA180&dq=restoration+triumph+seats&source=bl&ots=cZGFmexRcV&sig=3boL7d9qJm9Xx7zJ5xcD0pRI6TA&hl=en#v=onepage&q=restoration%20triumph%20seats&f=false use the link and scroll back to page 166/167. TIP once you have adequate imitation horsehair /scrim padding glued taped in place cover with a bin liner and slide new cover over. rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve R Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Hi Guy I used small cable ties in place of the hog rings on the base, you can easily adjust the tension of the cover to get it even. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Thanks for those tips chaps Did a trial run on one seat base on one seat cushion, wanted to get the cover on to see how it fitted. At one oclock last night having finished off my second bottle of red (it was my birthday) i got the cover on by turning it inside out and pulling down the side of the front and pulling the cover backwards. To my suprise on second attempt it went on very well, was quite pleased. Strangely i had tried earlier in the day whilst sober and couldnt do it Anyway thought i would take apart the the other old seat base, well its unserviceable it too halfs, stuffed full of hesian and foam.BPO I thoUght i had a spare, but then remembered i had used that on the base i had just done earlier. So now i am stuck, will have to keep an eye out for a useable frame, buy new, or go foam. Bugger Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Easiest way to get a seat cover on is to roll it down the length . . . . . One job for the girlfriend, Guy . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Easiest way to get a seat cover on is to roll it down the length . . . . . One job for the girlfriend, Guy . . . . Cheers Alec Nice one Alec. Now get back in your garage and find me a spring base Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 (edited) Roadster Factory in USA have the spring seat bases. Then scroll down to page 8. http://trf.zeni.net/wc/specials8.6/ Edited November 27, 2012 by Don Elliott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Roadster Factory in USA have the spring seat bases. Then scroll down to page 8. http://trf.zeni.net/wc/specials8.6/ Nice to see they are using the smaller softer springs, a lot better than the ones that have been available over here. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Hi Guy, If you can roll the seat back cover down inside out then IMHO it will be too slack to get adequate tension. You need the plywood strips in place to tack or staple the leather/vinyl to. The tipping seat has the back side stapled or pinned first and then the back rest side stapled/or pinned to the same strip. On the 3a the two sections of piping need to sit evenly and need quite a bit of padding to get this right. I also think you may be disappointed with foam seat pads and I have noticed that they do not spring back to the shape as quickly as a proper spring base. They are available but it takes time to find good useable item, beware buying what you are told is a 3a spring base without seeing it as I bought one and found it was a tr2 one (totally different shape) that had been over stuffed to look like a 3a one. £60 inc carriage down the drain from one of the main suppliers of parts!!!! The spring base was rotten anyway. Rgds rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 (edited) Hi Guy, If you can roll the seat back cover down inside out then IMHO it will be too slack to get adequate tension. You need the plywood strips in place to tack or staple the leather/vinyl to. The tipping seat has the back side stapled or pinned first and then the back rest side stapled/or pinned to the same strip. On the 3a the two sections of piping need to sit evenly and need quite a bit of padding to get this right. I also think you may be disappointed with foam seat pads and I have noticed that they do not spring back to the shape as quickly as a proper spring base. They are available but it takes time to find good useable item, beware buying what you are told is a 3a spring base without seeing it as I bought one and found it was a tr2 one (totally different shape) that had been over stuffed to look like a 3a one. £60 inc carriage down the drain from one of the main suppliers of parts!!!! The spring base was rotten anyway. Rgds rod Hi Rod, I was working on the seat base not the back. The back i am still working on the ply strips, but once all the padding is in, i plan to slip over a thin bin liner to aid the fitiing of the cover and pull it down. I had sourced two seat springs, of the two only one was useable and thats the one i have used, but i didnt think that the seat base i have stripped today was going to fall into bits on the floor, most depressing. Don, thanks for info on TRF i have made an enquiry. I know i could get new spring bases from Rimmer and Moss, but the springs are larger and so as Stuart says too firm Seems to be one step forward and two back at present Cheers Guy Edited November 27, 2012 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 The bin liner is a good tip. I didn't use one and it was a struggle. I also like the idea of tie wraps, I used upholstery clips but they are a bugger to remove if if you get one wrong. I got my spring bases from Skinners - they claim they are made to original spec. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted November 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 (edited) Been doing some trial fits to the cover over the back rest, think i need some more foam to top edge. I have been looking for a good photo showing how the top of the seat should look, some seem to have a slight slope between the pipeing and others more so, so what is the correct way? Photo would be great. Please Thanks Cheer Guy Edited November 29, 2012 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bazzano Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 Guy......regarding your ply strips......... When I recovered my TR2 seats, I glued up my own homemade curved plywood strips. It was way too much work. Then I discovered that HDPE plastic will bend very nicely and hold the short carpet tacks I used to hold down the front of the seat back. I also used HDPE on the bottom of the seat frame as well. Much easier than using wood and quite reasonable. I was surprised that it worked so nicely. Pop riveted the strips to the metal seat frame. John B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted November 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 (edited) Hi John I ended up fixing 1/4 waterproof grade ply, and riveted it in place. As both of my seats tilt i only ply to the backs of the seats. Good idea and future tip for any readers using the plastic. Thanks Guy Edited November 29, 2012 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 Hi Guy, The stuff you need is this http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-219-paddings.aspx. To get the right level of padding that will keep it's shape you need the imitation horsehair covered by layers of wadding as padding. Tape it in position and put the bin liner over and slide the cover over it, the bag helps keep the padding in place while you set the cover. IMHO foam does not cut it considering that whenever you sit into the seat you drag the back cover. rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 Hi Guy link didn't work for some reason www.woolies-trim.co.uk Trimmings header Paddings Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted November 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 Check out these "original" seats? in this link http://www.classicstreet.com/1958_tr_3a_rally_car.htm Can you see the slope in the top edge of the seat, Should the rear most pipeing on the seat line up with the metal back of the seat? Or should the metal back be more central. I hope this make sense Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 Can anyone explain the difference between the shape of the TR2 seat bottom cushion and the later TR3A seat bottom cushion? The top front edge seems to be closer to square on my existing seats (with non-original springs) and in Guy's photo above, whereas the replacement seat covers I just got seems to have a more curved shape in that top front area. My look at Bill P.'s book with a picture of an original TR2 interior seems to have that more square type shape, so I am trying to sort out the difference so I get the correct replacement springs set. Thanks and cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted November 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 Can anyone explain the difference between the shape of the TR2 seat bottom cushion and the later TR3A seat bottom cushion? The top front edge seems to be closer to square on my existing seats (with non-original springs) and in Guy's photo above, whereas the replacement seat covers I just got seems to have a more curved shape in that top front area. My look at Bill P.'s book with a picture of an original TR2 interior seems to have that more square type shape, so I am trying to sort out the difference so I get the correct replacement springs set. Thanks and cheers Dan Dan Here a snap of my seat cover base on my 3a springs Heres a profile shot The cover is not finaly fitted yet, going to put some more padding on top, and wire the springs together to stop the odd bulge i have in the front, then fit correctly. TRF do both types of spring base, but are awiting stock , 1-2 weeks Hope this helps Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted November 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 There going in a skip in a minute. Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted November 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 Heres another question and whinge on my part. The spring base creeks like a tired old mattress would, and yes i know its old, but i can visualise going down the road bouncying in my seat and .. squeak squeak, and if i resolve a passenger seat i guess that will mean squeak squeak squeak aqueak. Or is this what i should call patina??? Cant have squeaky seats, is there an answer to this apart from new springs, or foam.? Cheers Guy Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 (edited) They should not squeak Guy Edited November 30, 2012 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 (edited) You boys may be interested in this: http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/Images/Customer-restorations/Runyan/T4-seat-springs/T4%20Seat%20Springs.html Al Edited November 30, 2012 by AlanT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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