MOT failure tyre wear after 12k miles

[TRTerry]

My car nearly failed it's MOT due to uneven wear on the rear Pirelli P6000 195/65 R15 91V's I had fitted back in 2009, just a mere 12500 miles ago.

 

It could be my lead foot, but I am certain I had much better wear from the Bridgestone ER30's that were previously fitted. Are the P6000's fast to wear? Should I consider another brand of tyre for my enthusiastic motoring?

 

The wear is on the inside edge, the outers look untouched, so what needs adjusting (apart from me).

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Terry

 

Edited August 22, 2011 by TRTerry

[peejay4A]

Excessive toe out on the rear trailing arms is my bet. Is the wear the same on both sides? I'd have it looked over by a tyre depot that can do 4 wheel alignment checks.

I've had Pirelli P-Zeroes wear quite quickly compared to the Dunlop and later Toyo Proxes I replaced them with. Not on a TR though.

[Austin Branson]

Hi. There is embossed on the tyre wall, a 'Wear Rate Indicator', which is (allegedly) a figure to give you an idea of comparative wear. Here, in Northern Europe, the average is around 220. Michelins in particular, tend to have higher numbers. In my experience Pirelli's use a rather less hard wearing structure, with a lower number (my P Zero's were 180, and wore relatively quickly). Unfortunately, most tyre depot's do not have access to the Wear Rate Indicator for tyres in their spec sheets.

 

I hope that sheds a little light on it.

 

Austin

[Denis]

A 'mere 12,500mi' you say!...I run Pirelli P6000 on my front wheel drive Peugoet 406 HDi Estate everyday car, and that's all I get out of mine (in 14 months)

I don't mind that mileage at all, as I get great grip in the wet and dry! However it's the N'Side front that wears it's shoulder off (Understeer in Roundabouts) and the rears wear out evenly.

 

On my TR6 I don't believe in running wider tyres, I stick to what it was designed for (165 Michelins) Why run ugle fatter and more expensive tyres anyway?

 

Mine passed it's MOT today without any advice notes which is always nice

Edited August 22, 2011 by Denis

[Peter Cobbold]

Excessive toe out on the rear trailing arms is my bet. Is the wear the same on both sides? I'd have it looked over by a tyre depot that can do 4 wheel alignment checks.

I've had Pirelli P-Zeroes wear quite quickly compared to the Dunlop and later Toyo Proxes I replaced them with. Not on a TR though.

 

Yes, I agree, too much toe-out.

[Rob72CP]

Could be excessive negative camber, or toe out or quite possibly a combination of both - either way it needs the allignment checking and setting up.

 

Rob

[PJM]

I have Pirelli's on my TR6 and have so far completed 28K miles so perhaps your lead foot needs to go on a diet as well as sorting the tracking out.

[Alec Pringle]

"perhaps your lead foot needs to go on a diet "

 

It's a TR . . . . I wouldn't expect to get 20K miles out of any sort of rubber on a TR, P6000s nearer 10K, if that.

 

I mean, you don't drive a TR for economy. Or am I missing something ?

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[rpurchon]

My car nearly failed it's MOT due to uneven wear on the rear Pirelli P6000 195/65 R15 91V's I had fitted back in 2009, just a mere 12500 miles ago.

 

It could be my lead foot, but I am certain I had much better wear from the Bridgestone ER30's that were previously fitted. Are the P6000's fast to wear? Should I consider another brand of tyre for my enthusiastic motoring?

 

The wear is on the inside edge, the outers look untouched, so what needs adjusting (apart from me).

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Terry

 

 

i have same problem on my car perhaps a tad worse.tyres 205/60 on 6" rims now 5 years old and 18000 miles.

rear drivers side inside edge.i had 4 wheel laser tracking done when i fitted them.because the old ones were the same.

i had to swap one shim round on the ofending wheel then took it back for re checking.so not tracking/toe in.the rear brackets are the right way round and poly bushes fitted.so how do you alter the rear camber. before i fit some new tyres. 195/65 next time.

richard

[had17462]

Richard you can get adjustable brackets instead of the combination ones with the notches but there are many different ways you can set the original ones up ,i think theres an article telling you which way for certain alignments,one of the guys on here will post it iam sure,

regards nick.

[Stag powered]

Definately a tracking problem on the rear. I had this same problem when I rebuilt my car 20 years ago, and I have my own tracking gauges, however, when I tracked it the fuel tank was empty and it had no driver in it. I rechecked it due to tyre wear and it was ok, until I put in a full tank of fuel and a few bags of sand (no I am not a fat b*****d, I only weigh 11 stone), then the tracking was out due to the rear suspension squatting. Tracked it up when ballasted and it has not worn any rear tyre edges in the last 70,000 miles. Shame I can't say the same for the front, but that has more to do with my enthusiastic driving style!

[TRTerry]

Tracking when ballasted sounds a good idea.

 

Will get Jigsaw to laser align me and re-shim etc.

 

Thanks everyone for chipping in.

 

 

Terry

[Matt]

Tracking when ballasted sounds a good idea.

 

Will get Jigsaw to laser align me and re-shim etc.

 

Thanks everyone for chipping in.

 

 

Terry

 

 

Unless the specification states to load a vehicle with balast for wheel alignment it should be empty. The specs (caster/camber/SAI) are worked so that when the car is static and the car matches those specs it will, once in motion, be as the factory (or later specialist) intended!

I would recommend getting a good 4 wheel alignment check done by somebody who knows what they are doing. In the right hands laser is good but most don't really know what they are doing. A computerised 4 wheel alignment is always best as it takes the 'guesswork' out of the alignment.

[88V8]

Unless the specification states to load a vehicle with balast for wheel alignment it should be empty. The specs (caster/camber/SAI) are worked so that when the car is static and the car matches those specs it will, once in motion, be as the factory (or later specialist) intended!

I would recommend getting a good 4 wheel alignment check done by somebody who knows what they are doing. In the right hands laser is good but most don't really know what they are doing. A computerised 4 wheel alignment is always best as it takes the 'guesswork' out of the alignment.

 

Can't remember about the toe-in, but the BB gives camber values laden. Pretty sure the toe-in is unladen, I had no ballast when I was pulling mine over the Trakrite.

 

Ivor

[rpurchon]

Unless the specification states to load a vehicle with balast for wheel alignment it should be empty. The specs (caster/camber/SAI) are worked so that when the car is static and the car matches those specs it will, once in motion, be as the factory (or later specialist) intended!

I would recommend getting a good 4 wheel alignment check done by somebody who knows what they are doing. In the right hands laser is good but most don't really know what they are doing. A computerised 4 wheel alignment is always best as it takes the 'guesswork' out of the alignment.

 

i did have laser tracking doing on mine and the oldish guy knew what he was doing.but its still wrong.

the camber changes a hell of a lot when you jack the back end up.he wheels droop out.

and if you jack the front corner up the oppsite rear wheel goes in.so it makes sense to do it loaded.

i think checking should be done with the car loaded.that is with the driver sat in the drivers seat.

driving into the garage with no reversing or manouvering about.

now the tyres shot i will move 1 shim from outer to inside bracket.put a stripe of paint on the tyre and see how it wears on a short run.

richard

[rpurchon]

i did have laser tracking doing on mine and the oldish guy knew what he was doing.but its still wrong.

the camber changes a hell of a lot when you jack the back end up.he wheels droop out.

and if you jack the front corner up the oppsite rear wheel goes in.so it makes sense to do it loaded.

i think checking should be done with the car loaded.that is with the driver sat in the drivers seat.

driving into the garage with no reversing or manouvering about.

now the tyres shot i will move 1 shim from outer to inside bracket.put a stripe of paint on the tyre and see how it wears on a short run.

richard

 

 

finaly got around to moving a shim on the rear of the car.heres a very low tech way of checking the tracking.

i used a strip of black gaffer tape which has a grey backing.can of squirty contact adhesive.

the picture is after a 10 mile drive.it took longer to wear than i thought.

its still wearing more on the inside.but looks to have moved across 1/3 of the tyre

i will try again with a unworn tyre,and see if makes any difference.

trouble is its raining now.

this would be a good way of getting the tyre pressure something like.

richard

Edited September 10, 2011 by rpurchon

[Anschutz]

If the tracking is OK what camber are the wheels running at? If you are running with lowered springs you may have too much negative, it depends on what you use the car for.

5mm spring seat insulators are avalable instead of 3mm which will reduce negative camber ( top and bottom of spring) or for touring use try the Moss Road spring set rear - uprated raised (pair) TT4211PR

[tr6tuga]

Hi felow members

 

I've being running 165 goodyear I ges for the last 5k judging for previous owner records, smoth, balanced, until I felt a slight tack tack rear left, that eventualy I traced to a failling suspension, on back order the replacement.

But after a fastidius, troublesome, hard working hot day with a #@??; and more, original sizors jack, managed to see the inside !!! to find what a lump can turn into; (I'll post a image when I understand how to)

Change the tyre and a couple of days after bang! it the felow before me (see my other post).

The issue is how can you find out how old or damaged is your classic tyre, marks aren't reliable

[rpurchon]

If the tracking is OK what camber are the wheels running at? If you are running with lowered springs you may have too much negative, it depends on what you use the car for.

5mm spring seat insulators are avalable instead of 3mm which will reduce negative camber ( top and bottom of spring) or for touring use try the Moss Road spring set rear - uprated raised (pair) TT4211PR

 

never touched the springs.the insulators are probably 3mm and rubber,and it doesnt sit low at the back end.

the back end is nice and soft for want of another word.i recon they are the original springs.

they look like they have been on 40 years.but who knows

richard