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About 88V8

  • Birthday 01/14/1951

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  • Location
    Glorious Gloucs, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    Previously TR6 pi 1974, now AMC Rambler V8 1963 (Roger), Landrover Lightweight V8 1974 (The Shed), Pug 205 1990 (The Shopping Trolley).

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  1. Happy birthday Ivor, hope you are both well.

    JOK (TR6) is still with me and running well. Looking to do some bodywork this year



  2. Unless using silicone which I never did or will, the fluid absorbs water. The water corrodes the brake internals. That tears up the seals. The brakes leak. Change every two years, but for the small time taken and minimal cost, may as well be done annually. Applies to all cars, not only TRs. The benefit of this was illustrated in my own TR6 when I raised it from 5 years idleness. I had changed the brake fluid before layup, the brakes were perfect, but being lazy I hadn't done the clutch and both master and slave - new within a few years - were leaking. The slave was dripping fluid li
  3. 88V8

    Chassis Paint

    This stuff is bomb-proof. http://www.rust.co.uk/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/c28117/ Never tried spraying it though. Ivor
  4. I fitted a small diaphragm vacuum pump to my TR6 to boost the low manifold vac (hot cam). Even with the engine not running, the servo replenished in a few seconds. With 2.5 litres of pump, I think it must replenish in a gnat's crotchet, and until the brakes are applied the servo draws no more vac So as far as the PI system is concerned, not worth bothering about. For the record, the pump was a Charles Austen V2. Yes, it made a bit of noise but only for a few seconds. It upped the vac at the servo from 7"Hg to 19"Hg. Anyone who wants to try this, put a non-return valve between the pu
  5. 88V8

    Duckhams is back

    Used to use Comma Classic until they sneakily reduced the zddp. Now using Lucas 20/50. Would be nice if one could go back to Duckhams. Like to see some figures though, not just woffle. Ivor
  6. Add fuel stabiliser to the tank and run it through the system for a few minutes http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-Oil-Fuel-Stabilizer-237ml/292323564016?epid=1312015700&hash=item440fd799f0:g:-K8AAOSwJ59Z1Pv4. Change the brake and clutch fluid. Put the battery on a trickle charger. Jack the tyres off the ground so they don't flat-spot. Jack under the suspension, not the chassis otherwise it will reverse load the bushes. If not done recently, Waxoil/Dinitrol inside the chassis and the body cavities. And already present, fit wheelarch liners - body preservation at a modest pri
  7. Unless my car was unusual, when you go to drain the tank you will find that much of the fuel ends up in the wheel well. There is a rubber bung in there to let it out. Old fuel is no good for engines, but still burns well, One tip, Change the brake and clutch fluid. They absorb moisture and will corrode the brake internals and cause seal failure. Just bleed it out at each corner until it runs fresh. Ivor
  8. Yes, I put the warning light in the dash right in front of me. And the Revington kit was/is particularly cunning, in that the light could be selectively set to dim at night. A light which is bright enough to be seen during the day will be dazzling at night. It was somehow wired into the dash lighting circuit, and there was a potentiometer on the control box. Ivor
  9. 88V8

    MX5 Seat brackets

    TR Trader offers or did, two heights of bracket. I used the lower. With the higher brackets my head seemed to be above the top of the windscreen. I'm 6'0", 32" leg, if you want to know, ducky. Issue with my very comfy MX5 seats is that they were just slightly wider than the originals. When seeking maximum legroom, they either clout the trans tunnel or the B post. I had sufficient room, but I noticed as he drove off that the rather tall new owner of my car didn't. Ivor
  10. That's a good variant. Moly. I could go with that, if the oil leaks out. In my Rambler's box, parts unobtainum, I tried EP140 which leaked out more slowly, then went to ISO1000 Steam Cylinder oil, which leaks not at all. Or perhaps on a glacial timescale. No good for trunnions though. Ivor
  11. My TR6 had the Revington logic box. The best upgrade I ever put on the car. It also had a dash warning light to remind that the o/d was engaged, as with a mom switch there is no visual indication. As regards losing the o/d when changing down, this is more of an issue with the J type as it does not immediately re-engage, but losing the o/d on a downshift happens with or without the logic box. One thing I thought to do, given that the mom switch only needs a dab, was to put a second switch on the trans tunnel by the left knee. And one could put one on the gear lever as well. The sw
  12. Oil. You meant oil, of course. We know, when we think about it, it should be lubricated with oil. Not grease. And the factory shop manual says not to use grease, iirc. Yes, I know the oil tends to leak out so some people resort to grease, And grease can be OK if it is very frequently refreshed.. But trunnions are designed for oil, and with a new unit properly sealed it shouldn't leak.. My 63 Rambler has a trunnion setup. The top lube point even has a reservoir for oil. But this didn't stop some goon from lubing it with grease. Perhaps the same goon who, discovering that the steering box
  13. If you rebuild the diff, I presume you'll use new bearings, so I don't have to remind you not to apply new-part preload torque to old bearings. The R200 setup is very good. I had one on my car, and would do so again. Ivor
  14. My car started from cold in less than one engine rotation, even after standing a week. Can't take any credit for that, it had a full Prestige system fitted by Malcolm in 2007. NRV? Not that I know of. It didn't start on all six, so perhaps some of the injectors leaked, but after it started the others soon chimed in. Ultimately, for quick starting at least some of the injectors have to hold the pressure. Ivor
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