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Stag powered

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  1. For years I ran 185/60 15 tyres on wire wheels using 155 tubes. Using a larger tube resulted in creases in the tube and multiple flat tyres after the first year or so as the tubes cracked on the folds, as well as balance problems as there were three layers of rubber in the folds. It was a shame I found this out the hard way as I ordered the tyres and asked for appropriate tubes to go with them, and the suppliers obviously didn't know their stuff! I have exactly the same problem with very low profile wide tyres on my hay turner and tedder machines on the farm. The originally fitted
  2. Makes my stag engined TR250 look a bit feeble, but there is no way I could get that into my yard with the exhaust under the chassis. Neil
  3. If you have a pressure gauge on the fuel line, try extending it to somewhere you can see it while driving. If the fuel pressure drops as the revs build there is a supply problem, if the pressure holds up the problem is elsewhere. Neil
  4. Make sure the yokes are aligned on opposite ends of the shaft. When I first got my 250 I replaced one of the joints on the shaft as it was knackered. I did this without separating the two halves of the shaft. A couple of years later after much high speed vibration the same joint failed again. This time I decided to separate the two halves of the shaft to make the job easier, but when getting ready to mark the shaft before I split it, I realised the shaft had been assembled one spline out. Having replaced the knackered joint I reassembled the shaft with the yokes aligned properly and
  5. Exactly the same thing had been done to the rear wings on my TR250. I was really surprised when I ground off the fibreglass covering the join and I found the outer wings were near perfect, but the double skinned join between the rear deck and inner wing was swollen with rust. I cut out the rusty join in sections and replaced it with a single layer of metal welded top and bottom, 25 years later it still hasn't rusted there due to no water trap being present, shame about all the other double skinned bits though! Neil
  6. Interesting video, I knew why input and output angles had to be the same but I have never seen it so simply demonstrated. When I first had my TR it had a persistent vibration at certain speeds that I didn't get to the bottom of for years. Eventually the propshaft munched one of its joints and on removing it for joint replacement I realised that the front and rear yokes were one spline out of phase. I don't know if the joints had been replaced before, I didn't bother changing them when I rebuilt the car as they had no play in them and they lasted until several years later. Having r
  7. Interesting read.... In that case it must have more to do with the change in squish characteristics. When I pulled the rover engine apart to free a stuck piston ring (it had been standing for 8 years before I bought it), I found that it had been fitted with thick 3.9 head gaskets. Despite it saying it was a 9.35 CR engine (from the numbers it was a factory new short engine) the compression measured 9.7 :1, but it is obvious the heads had been worked on. I tried fitting a set of original tin thin 3.5 gaskets and this lifted the measured compression to 10.5 :1. No chance it was going to r
  8. I have now got three engines running on megasquirt, two Stag V8s and a Rover V8. The ability to easily get a base map for the Triumph 6 cylinder is its greatest advantage, I had to start with a Rover V8 base map for my stag engined cars so it takes a lot more fiddling about to get everything up and running correctly. Also the fact that the six engine has a decent inlet set up already fitted is a massive advantage against the stag engine where I had to build my own inlet manifold. If I still had the straight six in my TR250 I would keep the individual throttles if I was running a long dur
  9. I had a similar problem caused by the solenoid. Bought an O ring set for the overdrive then found the plunger was coming unscrewed internally and screwing it back together cured the problem. Neil
  10. Yes I am talking about the original filter, I had it so I thought I would use it, and it did the job!
  11. I have got 3 Triumphs on efi using the TR6 type of filter as a pre filter for the Bosch pump. Pipe size is in theory too small, but works far better than the glass tube type which just caused cavitation. Neil
  12. I balanced the pistons and rods myself using a set of digital scales. The rods are pretty good from the factory, they must have selected sets that matched as I have several sets from scrap engines that are all within 3 grams for a set, but different sets may be 15 -20 grams different. It was more difficult for the end to end balance of the rods, so I made sure all the small ends were similar thickness by swapping a couple of rods from different sets, then balanced the big end. I could only find 2 companies who could balance V8s, and went with Oselli engineering on recommendation from
  13. At last it lives again! Much to my amazement no leaks of fluids occurred as I ran it up to temperature. It certainly sounds better without a dozen or so pin holes in the old exhaust system. Tomorrow I can take it for a bit of a run and see if the fueling needs a bit of re mapping, I am not expecting much difference except at wider throttle openings. Hopefully I can get it on the rolling road at the International Weekend and see how much difference the new exhaust system has made. The TR now has the same design system as the Stag, the remaining differences in output will be down to
  14. Getting a lot closer to finishing now, got the hood back on and the interior refitted, needs a damn good clean as everything vinyl is covered in mildew due to the damp garage. Took a couple of photos of the front end, engine bay as it can't normally be seen from this angle, and the TR6 front spoiler I fitted when I first fitted the Stag engine. The idea behind fitting the 6 front spoiler was to help with the cooling when I fitted the Stag engine, but I didn't expect the huge difference in high speed handling it caused. When I had my TR6 before this 250, it had a front spoiler fitted and was
  15. When I had my 6 and was running into hot pump problems I fitted a cooling coil plumbed in to the return from the PRV as was suggested at the time. It made a marginal difference, but that was all. Not enough fuel was returning to do much good. I then decided to plumb the coil so it was on the supply side of the pump so all the fuel went through it. This worked brilliantly, the quantity of fuel flowing through the cooling coil meant that the pump stayed cool (coating the coil with grease helped the heat transfer), but the fuel never picked up enough heat to cause boiling problems. As
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