saggy Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Hello to all, New on here and looking for some advice please. Can anyone recommend much better headlights (preferably with integral side light) for a TR4A irs with -ve earth and alternator? Also, I KNOW it's been said on here that the original heater is ok with a backflush etc but I can't be doing with mere modest improvements... I'd like a real blast of proper HEAT for top down in the winter. Can anyone recommend a good heater/fan combination to give me that please? Thank you in anticipation/hope. Regards, Saggy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Hi Saggy?? Welcome to best forum for TRs. I have fitted the Clayton three speed heater to my 4A and it is a significant improvement over the original. It fits into the original casing with slight mods for clearance of the inlet/outlet pipes. I only use the low and high speed on the fan which can be achieved using a two speed switch as a suitable three speed switch is not available. Clayton are very classic friendly and helpful, link here: http://www.claytoncc.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=22&Itemid=37 Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 For headlights, I would recommend the Wipac quad optics. I run them with higher-power bulbs (plus relays/new wiring) on night rallies in in Canada, not totally legal btw, but the general feedback from others on the forum is good even with UK-legal wattage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 (edited) Hello and welcome. Headlamps are not polarity sensitive. You can get side-in-head units from Moss and all the major sellers, also SVC etc. If you plan to fit bigger bulbs then a relay is essential and probably new wiring. A relay is a good idea anyway as it will protect the switch. I ran 100/80 bulbs in my hot hatches for 12 years with no aggro from plod, just make sure they're properly aimed. I put the Clayton alloy element in my 6. As Graeme said, it pretty much fits the casing. I kept the standard 2-speed fan, but I have since read that the MGB squirrel-cage fan will also fit. There was an improvement in output but not quantum. You may do better with a DIY radiator blind to ensure the engine gets properly hot. A Breezebreaker will greatly reduce the gale blowing from behind. And wear lots of layers. Ivor Edited February 22, 2010 by 88V8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Revington does replacement heaters which are, I believe, 3-speed and are said to be really fierce! I don't imagine they are cheap, but Neil has a reputation for engineering things properly. As with lamps, heaters are not polarity sensitive. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 (edited) Revington's heater upgrade is excellent. It really does provide a "blast" of air. I kept the original heater switch as a "Master" on-off and then routed the speed control knob into the glove box. The relays I mounted on a piece of perspex as a single "assembly" which I then squirreled-away under the dash out of sight. Result is a powerful 3-speed fan and very good heat output (new style heater matrix included in the kit) plus original looks. However, it requires complete disassembly of the heater casing, which means taking it out of the car. I suspect that when Triumph built the TR4 they started with the heater casing and built on/ around it as it's just about the least accessible thing in the car/ on earth. Enjoy, Ade Photos available of switch/ relays if required Edited February 22, 2010 by Ade-TR4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saggy Posted February 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Phew! What a nice welcome on here?! And what a mine of useful information! I think that's my first questions sorted in one hit. Well done and thank you to one and all. Revingtons are my closest so I'll speak to Neil and also check out Claytons. I note the point about the windbreak as well. On the lights, someone elsewhere suggested Wipac Freeform with Osram bulbs... anyone have any experience of these? (or indeed any other pearls of wisdom generally?) I'll check out some prices on these these things as well. I may have some other Q's as I progress with trying to get it all back together but for the moment many thanks again and regards to all. Saggy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saggy Posted February 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Ade, Sorry forgot to ask.. if you do have any photos of the switches/relays and wiring diagram that would be very helpful too. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Ade, Sorry forgot to ask.. if you do have any photos of the switches/relays and wiring diagram that would be very helpful too. Thanks Hi Saggy, I have various wiring diagrams for TR4A (or most other TRs). They are typically too big to send over this forum connection, but I can email them to you if you provide email address. Or email me on tony@thomson-of-marlow.co.uk and I'll send them via reply. Welcome to the TR Register Forum. TT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 I'll get some posted ASAP. Cheers Adey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Collins Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 As with lamps, heaters are not polarity sensitive. Not entirely true, the fan motor would run backwards if the polarity is reversed. As long as neither wire is earthed inside the assembly that can easily be corrected. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Hello to all, New on here and looking for some advice please. Can anyone recommend much better headlights (preferably with integral side light) for a TR4A irs with -ve earth and alternator? Also, I KNOW it's been said on here that the original heater is ok with a backflush etc but I can't be doing with mere modest improvements... I'd like a real blast of proper HEAT for top down in the winter. Can anyone recommend a good heater/fan combination to give me that please? Thank you in anticipation/hope. Regards, Saggy See the alternator threads in TR2/3 forum. Moss London are offering HID headlamp conversions for H4 headlamp units (HID are the infuriatingly bright white lights the cretin in the BMW behind has) Heaters are from Clayton and I guess Revington has added a fitting kit. If you are near Clayton go and talk to them with your heater in your hand (and some cash) Cheer Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted February 26, 2010 Report Share Posted February 26, 2010 Hi Photos as requested! Ade Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trevor Posted February 26, 2010 Report Share Posted February 26, 2010 Just noticed 'which' magazine have done a headlight survey and found 'Bosh Pure Light' to be better than some of the much more expensive one's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smokey Posted February 28, 2010 Report Share Posted February 28, 2010 The Clayton heater fan motor is polarity sensitive, because it uses a solid state controller. If you reverse the polarity, you will fry the innards. I have positive ground, so I had to reverse the wiring, and ran the positive wire through the two-speed switch to ground. So be careful. The Revington kit is a Clayton, so I dealt directly with Clayton. They were very helpful on the phone, and their pricing was better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Evans Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 RE: Better headlights. I changed to 100/80watt halogen bulbs nearly 20 yrs ago and have had no problems. Needless to say they are a great improvement! I did fit a relay and an alternator though. RE: Heater. I replaced the matrix with a new, orignal design one many years ago. (I don't think upgraded ones were available then). What a pain! After removing the 'H' piece I do remember that removing the glove box gave much better access to a recalcitrant third bolt holding the unit it place! Draughts: Obviously a good fitting hood and door seals, but thick cardboard cut outs pushed into place over the dashboard air vents work wonders too, simple and cheap! Ian Evans Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 Welcome Ian, Good to see you on the Forum at last ! After all your years and miles in the 4A, your advice will doubtless soon be in demand !! Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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