randall977 Posted February 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Thanks Stuart - good advice as usual. Don't worry the car isn't left exposed as shown - and it will be put away as soon as I can move it... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Is there anything wrong with Rimmer Bros rear bumpers? £400 instead of £500 else where? Also TR Shop rear complete light clusters for £75 each - is that a good buy? I have 3 original boxed rear lenses but I assume the whole unit would be more cost effective than just the chrome? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mandarawessels Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Hi Christian only just read all of this thread good buy, good price! when i bought my tr4 in nov. 2006 it was as these pics show!! Obviously the nice shiny red car in the last pic is the car as she is now, but by no means finished. Hard but very rewarding work. Keep us updated with your project. cheers John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Is there anything wrong with Rimmer Bros rear bumpers? £400 instead of £500 else where? Also TR Shop rear complete light clusters for £75 each - is that a good buy? I have 3 original boxed rear lenses but I assume the whole unit would be more cost effective than just the chrome? As already stated the repro bumpers quality leaves something to be desired and the rears sometimes have the wrong curvature as well. Keep looking for good originals and have them rechromed. The TR Shop rear lights are fine but the wiring is wrong coloured.(Leastways the last pair I had were) The tail lights have green wires and the indicators are red wires Ok once you realise and swap the wires round. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Hi John, very impressive work - you certainly had your work cut out! Stuart, Harrington (who do the ss bumpers) have offered to take my TR4 over-riders so they can reproduce them (currently they only do the 4a over-riders) and sell me a full TR4 set in ss for £600 (including all shipping). Seems like a good deal to me... Looked into 165 HR 15 tyres - very expensive - the tyres I have are Michelin, no wear but nearly 20 years old...could they be reused? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 (edited) 20 year old tyres? Reuse? I, along with many others, certainly wouldn't chance it at all! I believe the common understanding is that no matter how much tread is left, all tyres should be replaced after 10 years... I have 185/55/15's (Avon) and seem pretty good to me... though they might just be 65 section:blink: Good luck! Brgds Edited February 16, 2010 by ianhoward Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Hi John, very impressive work - you certainly had your work cut out! Stuart, Harrington (who do the ss bumpers) have offered to take my TR4 over-riders so they can reproduce them (currently they only do the 4a over-riders) and sell me a full TR4 set in ss for £600 (including all shipping). Seems like a good deal to me... Looked into 165 HR 15 tyres - very expensive - the tyres I have are Michelin, no wear but nearly 20 years old...could they be reused? Dont forget that the overrider spacing is different on the front of a 4 so the bolt holes in the bumper need to be in the right place but if Harringtons are willing to reproduce them then go for it as they do a cracking job on them and they are fit and forget. The Michelins are expensive, £165 plus VAT each but they are the tyres to have. The age of the ones you have are really a no no especially if they have been sat around. Vredstien do a good 165 x 15 also Firestone which to my mind are equally as good and only slightly more expensive. Dont be tempted to go wider as 4s just work the best on 165s. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Leonardo Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 The TR Shop ones are virtually the same as the originals and far superior to the Moss ones. Remember you get what you pay for Original steering wheels do turn up on ebay fairly frequently and don't fetch as much as some of the aftermarket ones. Stuart. I was going to buy the crash pads at Rimmer but now I'm going to TR Shop, what about the rest of the interior (trim kits, carpets)? TR Shop too? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 I was going to buy the crash pads at Rimmer but now I'm going to TR Shop, what about the rest of the interior (trim kits, carpets)? TR Shop too? Thanks Their trim kits are pretty good as I have used a few of them. The only thing is the circular holes for the winders and door handles need opening out to allow the springs to compress enough to get the retaining pins in the handles. I used a hole saw carefully rotated by hand to just remove a circle of the hardboard backing just the same size as the escutcheon without damaging the trim.They also do several grades of carpet depending on your budget. But still as good and cheaper than other outlets and unlike some I could mention their footwell side carpets do have the backing board already fitted. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 My new dashtop and grab handle from the TR Shop should be with me on Thursday so I'll let you know how it compares to the original. Just looking at the door seals - is the draft strip stuck on - how does it fix outside the seal strip? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 My new dashtop and grab handle from the TR Shop should be with me on Thursday so I'll let you know how it compares to the original. Just looking at the door seals - is the draft strip stuck on - how does it fix outside the seal strip? The original door seals were in two parts. A furlex seal around the aperture and a rubber seal in a steel channel around the outside of that. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Is the Furlex seal glued to the outside of the frame? I think I have all of the seals but I havn't had a good rummage through the big bag of seals yet... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Is the Furlex seal glued to the outside of the frame? I think I have all of the seals but I havn't had a good rummage through the big bag of seals yet... The rubber seal fits into a small channel section welded around the door opening. The "furflex" is a push fit onto the lip around the door opening. There is a metal core. Furflex is the correct term for the fuzzy TR2/3/3A type seal - the correct term for the fuzzy seal for the TR4/4A/5/6 is draught excluder. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Hi Alan, not sure I have this additional channel then - do they generally get removed over a long period of time? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mandarawessels Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Hi Alan, not sure I have this additional channel then - do they generally get removed over a long period of time? Yes they do, they rust away. when I got my tr4 there was a few inches left here and there. I took it off. cheers John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) Yes they do, they rust away. when I got my tr4 there was a few inches left here and there. I took it off. cheers John Yes, they do tend to rust away. You should also be aware of the two different types of rubber seal and draught exlcuder. TR4s had a separate rubber seal in a channel section, 5s and 6s had a combined rubber seal and draught excluder. They are not really interchangeable as the TR4s had a triangular plate at the bottom of the door opening - this prevents the door closing properly if the later type combined section is used. Have you got the right type? If you PM me with your email address, I'll send a photo. AlanR Edited February 17, 2010 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Not sure what type I have yet but I know the addition channel is not there. How did the later TR's get away without the triangle reinforcement? One side of mine has not had it welded in yet - I wonder if this is because of the seal issue? Can it be left out? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Not sure what type I have yet but I know the addition channel is not there. The early type has a separate all-rubber seal and fuzzy draught excluder. The later type has a combined rubber seal and fuzzy draught excluder. Easy enough to tell the difference - one piece or two pieces. How did the later TR's get away without the triangle reinforcement? One side of mine has not had it welded in yet - I wonder if this is because of the seal issue? Can it be left out? I don't know when or why the triangular reinforcement was deleted. I'm sure someone will confirm when this happened. It's strange that you have this reinforcement one side and not the other. I would not have thought this would be related to the seal - people don't think about that until later, as it is assumed that you can get all the right parts - it's only later when you realise that you may not be able to get the early type sdeparate seals/strips. (You can now, but at one time, you could not, at least not in the right colours). More likely, I would have thought, that the reinforcement piece was left out as a matter of convenience when new sills and/or B posts were welded on, but I'm speculating as I don't know the history of your car. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) Essentially the triangle should be there as it is an extra re-enforcing for the "B" post and as Alan says it would have been left out when replacing a sill as it has to be removed and then replaced to fit the sills. It is cheaper and easier to use the later one piece seal and it also removes another rust trap as thats why most of the channels disappeared in the first place The only down side being that the one piece seal then goes up the triangle section and puts an imprint of the seal in the door trim lower rear corner. Unless you want absolute originality or concours I wouldnt worry too much. Stuart. Edit. By the way Happy Birthday. Edited February 17, 2010 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Thanks Stuart! Head bolts...can I reuse old ones if they appear in good condition? I was shocked to find new ones are a whopping £8 each! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Thanks Stuart! Head bolts...can I reuse old ones if they appear in good condition? I was shocked to find new ones are a whopping £8 each! Yes you certainly can, this is old technology no stretch once and throw away here! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Yes you certainly can, this is old technology no stretch once and throw away here! Stuart. Head bolts? I assume you mean head studs or was there a change between the 3a and the 4? Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Well I havn't found the bag which contains them yet so I assumed head bolts... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Well I havn't found the bag which contains them yet so I assumed head bolts... It is studs on a TR4 engine. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randall977 Posted February 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 (edited) Tomorrow I plan to strip the dash down and repaint - should it be white or an off white? I found two pairs of these this evening, any idea what they are? Edited March 11, 2010 by randall977 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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