JOHN'S TR6 Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Can any one tell me if there is a specified torque setting for the six Nylock nuts and studs on the rear hub to the trailing arm? If there is, I think it is sweet FA. One of my threads seem to have had better days. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 The torque setting should be 16lb. If at or approaching it you think that it doesnt feel right then its highly possible that the stud is starting to pull out. Best to helicoil them in as it makes them much stronger. 5/16" UNF is the size you need.. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JOHN'S TR6 Posted August 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Thanks Stuart May that be 5/16 x 24UNF? as I found a set on E-bay. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 (edited) I had mine helicoiled by Roland Alsopp (Chobham, Surrey). But I thought it was UNC that was needed for alloy, isn't the use of UNF the root of the problem? See Chris's post here: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....=trailing++stud* Ivor Edited August 24, 2009 by 88V8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JOHN'S TR6 Posted August 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Moss have confirmed that the Standard stud is 5/16 UNF. In relation to the 5/16th UNF Helicoil set I am looking at on E-Bay, can any one tell me what the 24 UNF stands for. May it be threads per inch? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Moss have confirmed that the Standard stud is 5/16 UNF. In relation to the 5/16th UNF Helicoil set I am looking at on E-Bay, can any one tell me what the 24 UNF stands for. May it be threads per inch? John Exactly. UNF is fine thread, 24 tpi. UNC is coarse thread, 18 tpi. Unclear why UNF was chosen for this application but the 5/16 24 into helicoil seems to hold up ok. Rick Patton makes a great jig for painless TA repair, its a bugger to do by hand and still get the studs perpendicular to the TA. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JOHN'S TR6 Posted August 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 (edited) Thanks Stan I will get the set ordered up. A Jig, now you have got me thinking about this one. I have some large lumps on Nylon I could use. Got to see the Helicoil tool set first. On the few occasions I have threaded in the past, the job has been sufficient but not fully convincing as the threading tool has bobbed about at all angles. A deep Nylon jig with two extra bolt reference points will enable the threading tool to be at the perfect angle and not wonder. Cheers John Edited August 24, 2009 by JOHN'S TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 (edited) John the setting is in the book around 16lbs i had 5 out of 6 go as the previous owner maybe didnt understand alloy TA and mild steel studs dont like the torque i got a good second hand one to do the job for Malvern (£50 from TRGB) and have a spare one now to helicoil at leisure cheers david Edited August 24, 2009 by dblenk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Davies Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 John, As others have said Moss stock a stud that is 5/16 UNC one end and 5/16 UNF the other. You can helicoil the trailing arm with UNC helicoils and loctite the studs in there leaving the standard UNF thread on the outer end for the nut. If the thread has stripped you probably wont even need to redrill the arm - the threadless hole will be about the right size for the helicoil tap. I have the tool and probably some spare helicoils (in Pontypool) but I'm away for a couple of weeks with work. I suspect that you're wanting to get it done faster but if it's a longer term thing let me know. By the way I purchased the helicoil tool set from County Industrial Supplies in Cwmbran. Cheers, Ben Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Look The threads in the arm should be UNC Not UNF. UNF was a bodge. Do it properly, old bean. Here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Armstrong-Helicoil-k...id=p3286.c0.m14 Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Davies Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Agree absolutely Ivor. John - the Moss part number for the UNC/UNF studs (which is probably the easiest way of doing this) was TE505121 when I ordered them - (the first few people I spoke to on the phone didn't know about them so it might take a while). The kit on ebay looks a bargain Ivor (until everyone just found out about it....!). Cheers, Ben Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JOHN'S TR6 Posted August 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Thanks very much for all your comments on this subject. I will admit that I ordered the UNF24 helicoil set earlier yesterday but after more comments last night I am some how wishing I ordered the UNC18 set. Yes, Moss still do the double threaded studs and I could order a UNC18 helicoil set and re flog the UNF24 back on E-bay. I keep telling my self it is just one stud thats up the duff. so I am in a state of uncetainty at the moment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Hi John, don't panic, fit the 5/16UNF helicoils and in 30 years time you can then fit the 5/16UNC. Good 5/16UNF threaded holes in either ali alloy or helicoil are strong enough for what you want. The weakness comes when the alloy becomes corroded and the threads slowly disolve - this take time - apprx 30 years Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
M. Pied Lourd Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 Hi Guys, Just jumping in from the TR3 forum.....I own a 6 as well....... This works really well.....NFI I have done several sets of trailing arms with this jig. http://www.pattonmachine.com/TARepairJig.htm Cheers, M. Pied Lourd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 This works really well.....NFI I have done several sets of trailing arms with this jig. http://www.pattonmachine.com/TARepairJig.htm Thankyou. That looks good. Presumably it works with UNC or UNF. Given that just one stud out of place will result in the brake back plate not fitting properly, $60 well spent. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 Thankyou. That looks good. Presumably it works with UNC or UNF.Given that just one stud out of place will result in the brake back plate not fitting properly, $60 well spent. Ivor Rick's jig wont work with UNC in my experience because for reasons that I cant explain the UNC tap is wider than the UNF tap even though they are both 5/16 so the UNC tap will not go through the tap adapter that Rick supplies. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jd6 Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 I need to replace one of the my hubs - question is: what is the likelihood of having to redo/helicoil the studs on the trailing arm? Highly likely or not that likely. Also any experience of TR Shop hubs? - cheaper than other places Jules Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 I need to replace one of the my hubs - question is: what is the likelihood of having to redo/helicoil the studs on the trailing arm? Highly likely or not that likely.Also any experience of TR Shop hubs? - cheaper than other places 50/50 I'd say. TR Shop hubs.... TR Shop in general, great. But Simon Winter was looking for a hub recently, he went to the TR Shop on 28 July and, quote 'TR Shop London! What a waste of time. Called to make sure they had stock, one and a half hours on the train and tube to get there all five "recon" hubs were no good. All five were as notchy as hell and all made a metallic grating sound when turned. Hopeless waste of my time and money! ' Buy cheap buy twice.... Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JOHN'S TR6 Posted September 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) I would just like to thank everyone that gave me help on this one. When I stripped the thread the other day on one of the six stud holes on the TA, I wanted to stick my head in the oven. But thanks the suggestions to helicoil the thread, the job is now successfully complete. In fact the helicoiled hole feels the best one of the lot. I think it was Stan that first mentioned a jig to drill and tap the hole, so I plundered a stock of Nylon block and came up with a suitable jig to keep the threaded helicoil hole true to the TA. Pictures below. John Edited September 1, 2009 by JOHN'S TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 Hi all Old thread but I'm in the same situation with two of the studs on the drivers side if I try to torque them to 14ft/lbs they feel like they will strip. The rest have been fine at 18ft/lb. So the plan is to Heilcoil back to 5/16 UNF given they are not taking a lot of load plus if I balls up I could go to 3/8 UCF. Never had a need to Heilcoil before and was thinking of this kit on flea bay https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=5%2F8+UNF+x+15%2F16+nyloc+nuts&_sop=10&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=5%2F16+heilcoil+set&_sacat=0 or open to suggestion. Also anyone got a jig they would be willing to lend me? Based in Wakefield West Yorks. Thanks all Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 Hi Andy, there are two thoughts on which way to progress. 1 - 3/8UNC 2 - 5/16UNF helicoil The first will work. In my view the second will work better. The helicoil improves the grip considerably. The UNF thread will assist in keeping it tight as there is no locking mechanism. I have a jig and the 5/16UNF helicoil bits and pieces. Give 30 minutes to check and I'll be back. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 Hi Andy, I have all the bits ( jig, drill, tap, coils etc) PM me your address. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted April 20, 2021 Report Share Posted April 20, 2021 On 1/31/2019 at 12:01 PM, RogerH said: Hi Andy, there are two thoughts on which way to progress. 1 - 3/8UNC 2 - 5/16UNF helicoil The first will work. In my view the second will work better. The helicoil improves the grip considerably. The UNF thread will assist in keeping it tight as there is no locking mechanism. I have a jig and the 5/16UNF helicoil bits and pieces. Give 30 minutes to check and I'll be back. Roger Hi Roger, sorry to resurrect this old thread but do you have a link to a 5/16 helicoil set suitable for the trailing arm? There seem to be loads on ebay but I'm not sure if any of them are any good. Cheers Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 20, 2021 Report Share Posted April 20, 2021 13 minutes ago, DRD said: There seem to be loads on ebay but I'm not sure if any of them are any good. Buy it from somewhere reputable then Darren: https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Recoil_Thread_Repair_Kits___Inserts_122.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted April 20, 2021 Report Share Posted April 20, 2021 11 minutes ago, RobH said: Buy it from somewhere reputable then Darren: https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Recoil_Thread_Repair_Kits___Inserts_122.html Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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