rvwp Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 Hi All, seems like everything I do seems to be frought with problems at the moment! I am trying to fit Inertia seat belts. The type sold to me by TR Bitz as suitable for the TR6, as it would seem comfirmed by the box, are the Sucuron Automatic Seat Belts. The fitting instructions are vague to say the least, in any event I don't see how if the Reel is fitted at the base of the B post as it has to be vertical, how it can work as there is no fixing at the top of the B post to ensure a straight vertical pull? There are posts on this subject back in 2006 but the outcome is not very clear to me. I'm sure there must be a solution and someone out there on the forum knows the answer. I await your reply's with eager anticipation!!! Thanks Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Oddball Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 Hi All, seems like everything I do seems to be frought with problems at the moment! I am trying to fit Inertia seat belts. The type sold to me by TR Bitz as suitable for the TR6, as it would seem comfirmed by the box, are the Sucuron Automatic Seat Belts. The fitting instructions are vague to say the least, in any event I don't see how if the Reel is fitted at the base of the B post as it has to be vertical, how it can work as there is no fixing at the top of the B post to ensure a straight vertical pull?There are posts on this subject back in 2006 but the outcome is not very clear to me. I'm sure there must be a solution and someone out there on the forum knows the answer. I await your reply's with eager anticipation!!! Thanks Rich Good Morning Rich As they say "a picture's worth a thousand words" hope this helps Cameron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 I have same arrangement as Cameron, with two exceptions. First, in order to have the reel 'pointing' at the pillar bracket - as that thing on the wheelarch is called - I bought the version with adjustable (tiltable) reels. My original vertical reels were binding and didn't rewind properly because they were, well, vertical, but the pillar bracket is not vertically above them. Second, because they came without pillar brackets and also would not fit under the cross-piece of the roll bar, I had to cut the B post fitting off the belt, then thread the belt through under the roll bar, through the pillar bracket, into the buckle, into the latch piece, and resew it onto the B post fitting. Bit tedious, but it works fine and is comfortable in use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodri Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 I don't wish to criticise your sewing ability, but would hate for those belts to come apart at the moment of impact in an accident, your life could literally depend on your sewing... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 I don't wish to criticise your sewing ability, but would hate for those belts to come apart at the moment of impact in an accident, your life could literally depend on your sewing... Yes. I used whipping twine - your local marine chandler - you can't break it. Many years ago I was in a head-on at 50mph. I remember it well. I re-sewed every stitch, every single stitch. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 I have same arrangement as Cameron, with two exceptions. First, in order to have the reel 'pointing' at the pillar bracket - as that thing on the wheelarch is called - I bought the version with adjustable (tiltable) reels. My original vertical reels were binding and didn't rewind properly because they were, well, vertical, but the pillar bracket is not vertically above them. Second, because they came without pillar brackets and also would not fit under the cross-piece of the roll bar, I had to cut the B post fitting off the belt, then thread the belt through under the roll bar, through the pillar bracket, into the buckle, into the latch piece, and resew it onto the B post fitting. Bit tedious, but it works fine and is comfortable in use. Hi, thanks for that. Looking at Cameron's layout I was concerned that the belt would'nt pull out of the inertia reel very smoothly. What make of belt are you talking about? Ta Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Hi, thanks for that. Looking at Cameron's layout I was concerned that the belt would'nt pull out of the inertia reel very smoothly. What make of belt are you talking about? Ta Rich They're Securon, I got them from Moss, their # is SBS514/30. They come with quite a decent fitting kit and some not too impenetrable instructions. Only problem I had - apart from the sewing - was that the centre stalk is straight and I needed the end cranked at about 80 degrees as my fixing is on the floor. Didn't fancy bending the stalk so I made up a cranked bracket. I see that Securon make other stalks which obviate this, but their website says they don't sell parts only complete belts so heyho. Anyway, the belts reel smoothly and retract totally, which I've noticed seems to be a problem with some belts, so many interior pictures one sees with the belts dangling over the floor, I do wonder if it's the verticality. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted February 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 Thanks Guys for all the info. However, no bodies mentioned it but I now understand the problem. The fixing point for the inertia reel as described does'nt exist on the pre 72 CP model, only on the post 73 CR/CF. Thats why I'm having difficulty. I have to create the anchor point at the base of the inner wheel arch by drilling a 7/16 hole and making up a reinforcing plate as the later cars. The fixing of the inertia reels will then make sense and should work. Thanks Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 They're Securon, I got them from Moss, their # is SBS514/30. They come with quite a decent fitting kit and some not too impenetrable instructions. The Securon 514/30 (angle adjustable reels) is for the TR2/3/3A apparently, and not meant to be used on a car with hood frame fitted, although they do supply some cranked brackets to extend the reel off the wheelarch to clear the hood frame and that in theory can be used, but look a bit odd and with a big leverage effect on the mounting I would think. The model required is 500/30 that has the extra belt loop fixing to the top of the wheelarch as shown in Camerons picture.......I have the wrong type too (not fitted yet) and will be contacting Securon to see if they can swap them. john Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Warrington Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 We had the adjustable reel belts fitted on our '6 for a while and wasn't at all happy with them. As well as the clearance issues with the hood frame, I found it was nearly impossible to set the reels so they wouldn't jam, even with copious amonts of fiddling with the dials to set correctly. Currently have the conventional belts, as in Cameron's picture - much better, slthough they do snag a little where the webbing passes through the bracket on the wheel arch, but can live with that. Easy to do on our car, though as it is a late CR model. Now kick myself for selling the adjustable ones as they would have been perfect as rear belts in my 2000. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 We had the adjustable reel belts fitted on our '6 for a while and wasn't at all happy with them. As well as the clearance issues with the hood frame, I found it was nearly impossible to set the reels so they wouldn't jam, even with copious amonts of fiddling with the dials to set correctly. Currently have the conventional belts, as in Cameron's picture - much better, slthough they do snag a little where the webbing passes through the bracket on the wheel arch, but can live with that. Easy to do on our car, though as it is a late CR model. Now kick myself for selling the adjustable ones as they would have been perfect as rear belts in my 2000. Kevin Hi Kevin, I have a new set of 514/30 adjustable reels (unfitted) that may be for sale shortly if I can obtain a set of 500/30 at reasonable price. john Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted February 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 Hi Kevin,I have a new set of 514/30 adjustable reels (unfitted) that may be for sale shortly if I can obtain a set of 500/30 at reasonable price. john Hi John, I bought my Securon 500/30's from TR Bitz for £43.40 + vat for the pair which I thought was reasonable. TR Bitz ensure me that they have fitted 100's of these to TR6's without any problem I,m still in course of fitting them so I hope their right! Rich (rvwp) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marks Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 Hi John, I bought my Securon 500/30's from TR Bitz for £43.40 + vat for the pair which I thought was reasonable. TR Bitz ensure me that they have fitted 100's of these to TR6's without any problem I,m still in course of fitting them so I hope their right!Rich (rvwp) Hi Has any one looked at the "Wesco" seat belt site? They make a retractor that sits on top of the wheel arch. Their site is very comprehensive and they talk about fitting to TR6's etc. The only question that springs to mind is would the belts be approved for uk use. Not a problem for me as we dont have MOt'S. A pair would work out about 200 US. incl fixing kit. The Securon belts are shown as 100 GBP each on their website, but I see on the Rimmers sale list they are around 30GBP ???? Interestingly there is a OZ company called Hemco that makes belts, there site gives no details of prices but they do say they conform to EEC stds. I'm leaning towards the Wesco ones as the fitting and operation looks simple. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 Well, here are my 514/30s with adjustable reels. They don't foul the hood frame, as I feared they might. And (second pic), the tiltable reel means you can get an exact line of sight to the pillar bracket on the wheelarch. Additionally, because it's spaced off the wheelarch by the rollbar mounts, the belt doesn't rub on its way to the pillar bracket, and this plus the line of sight means that it re-reels cleanly. So much so that even though I've cut off my rollbar since taking these pics, I cut it above the seatbelt mounts. So that's one job I've done without having to undo something I did before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SirHector Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 So can anyone update me on what would the best inertia seat belt sets to purchase for a 72. TR6 . I realise this was an old 2008 posting and things may have changed possibly. im also hoping these don’t need any welding reinforcement work if anyone could confirm. thank in advance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 (edited) Securon 500/30 or 514/30 for inertia reel type. Very close to the factory ZKC3303 original inertia reel belts. Your body shell may even have the mounting points on the side faces of the rear wheel arch for the inertia boxes. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/interior/seat-belts-harnesses/securon-seat-belts-tr5-6-57199.html alternative https://www.angclassiccarparts.co.uk/products/triumph-5981/tr6/body-parts-fittings/securon-front-inertia-seatbelt-kit-tr6 Edited May 6 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 Hi, on other threads my advice is to buy the lock side as short as possible and also to fix the belt end as steep down on the floor. This is to avoid sloping down under the belt. The issue is to hold you down in the seat and not „back“ on it. Please (if you want) look how this is done on modern cars. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brian -r Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 Fitted the Securon 500/30 to my 6 straight forward replacement for the original belts . Everything you need comes with the kit. PM me if you need a look I'm only in Waddington. Bri Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 (edited) photos, lock side 16 cm long, steep down (about 45°) belt side also steep down to the floor (about 45°) Edited May 6 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 2 hours ago, Z320 said: photos, lock side 16 cm long, steep down (about 45°) belt side also steep down to the floor (about 45°) TR5/6 stalk mounts are forward of the 4a ones anyway Marco. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 (edited) Question is, where is the lock? Near the seat (good) on your pelvic or belly (poor)? Edited May 6 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Z320 said: Question is, where is the lock? Near the seat (good) on your pelvic or belly (poor)? Right by the inner (Transmission tunnel) edge of the seat and this is with the seats right back against the wheel arches. Stuart. Edited May 6 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 After a good discussion with Quickfit Seat belt manufacturer I changed my belts to his.The centre stalks are the bladed type and the tops should be level or just below the seats so does not impact on your body side in a crash. The quality is streets ahead of what I have been used to. I knew them forty years ago when they were then called Kenton Seat Belts. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 7 Report Share Posted May 7 19 hours ago, harrytr5 said: After a good discussion with Quickfit Seat belt manufacturer I changed my belts to his.The centre stalks are the bladed type and the tops should be level or just below the seats so does not impact on your body side in a crash. The quality is streets ahead of what I have been used to. I knew them forty years ago when they were then called Kenton Seat Belts. Regards Harry The above ones in my picture are actually in the same place when in use theyve just kicked up a bit as the seats had been up and down for cleaning. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 7 Report Share Posted May 7 (edited) On 5/6/2024 at 3:36 PM, stuart said: Right by the inner (Transmission tunnel) edge of the seat and this is with the seats right back against the wheel arches. Stuart. Too high, too much backwards Edited May 7 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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