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Kevin Warrington

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About Kevin Warrington

  • Birthday 04/12/1957

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    kj.warrington@btinternet.com
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Profile Information

  • Location
    FAREHAM, Hampshire
  • Cars Owned:
    TRs (of course!)
    Classic vehicles of all types
    photography and journalism
    canals and narrow boats
    classic buses and coaches

Recent Profile Visitors

288 profile views
  1. Yes.... Triumph wiring can be a bit marginal at best. When I put a relay into the fuel pump circuit, it fixed a few problems with the indicators. Kevin
  2. Thanks - Looks like I'd better start with checking the wiring first. I've had to sort a few bits out over the years due to bad earths, etc so I'll start with the obvious and check all the connections are sound. Kevin
  3. Driving along last Sunday, I noticed the fuel gauge was reading "empty", with the needle sat against the stop as if the fuse had blown. I use the trip meter as a backup and refill every 200 miles as I have never properly trusted the fuel gauge as I know it is pessimistic. I filled up to be on the safe side and the gauge moved up to approx 3/4 and having driven around 100 miles since refilling, it is now hovering just off the empty mark again. I'm pretty sure it is a gauge, sender or electrical problem. Fairly confident that it isn't the voltage stabiliser as this was replaced a year or two ago with a modern solid state one and the temp gauge is working normally. So, I suppose I am going to have to test the gauge itself or the sender. I assume it works like a voltmeter, so if I pull the wire off the sender, it should go to the full position and if I ground it, it should go to empty? Other than by substitution with a new one, is there an easy way to test the operation of the gauge itself? And if it is the sender (which I suspect is most likely) can this be replaced with the tank in the car, or is it a tank out job to get to it? Kevin
  4. At least TR's were spared the worst of the British Leyland colour palette. Any takers for a TR6 finished in Limeflower or Blaze?
  5. I've used the pliers type on various spin on canister oil filters and found it very easy to use. Mine is a bit like a pair of slip joint pliers with the jaws curved to fit the oil filter. When I've fitted oil filters, I always oil the rubber gasket ring thing and tighten the filter by hand, as tight as I can get it. Not sure if they should really be tighter, but not had a leak this way and never had problems removing them. Kevin
  6. Changed the brake pads this morning on my 6. I've never really thought what the purpose of the wire spring clips is for - the things that clip onto the metal part of the pads and are secured with the pins. I only thought about it because they proved difficult to get back into place correctly today. They don't seem to actually secure anything, other than put a bit of pressure on the pins. What do they actually do? Kevin
  7. JDO Instruments is the man for speedo repairs and recalibrations. Approx £60. I got mine back within 48 hours looking like new (although it was for the 2000, not the TR, but they are both similar). Was originally reading about 25% fast and jumping all over the place. Now spot on accurate compared with a GPS at various speeds. don't whatever you do attempt to remove the cable that rsets the trip as it will break. Theres a spring arrangement in the case that holds it in place and you need to remove everything from the case to release it. No connections with him, but very impressed with service. Kevin
  8. This may be an urban myth, but I heard it first hand from a bloke who had seen it happen. Picture the scene - a commercial vehicle yard on a slight slope with a large pond at the end of the field. The company has a breakdown truck that has been built from an old 1970's bus. One of the first ones to have a spring parking brake (the spring keeps the brake on when you move the little lever and the air pulls the brake off). Being an old bus, there isn't much security - no ignition key and no locks to the doors. So they secure it overnight by draining the air tanks whihc also applies the brakes solidly. Its a fairly common practce with HGV's and PSVs as it makes them much harder to nick. It takes 10 or 15 minutes to get it running when needed, but if someone is attempting to steal it - it'll maybe give a bit of time for someone to notice what's going on. Anyway.... the yardman is sent to start the vehicles in the morning, including the breakdwn wagon. It has a "fast idle" throttle (a housebrick that is placed on the throttle pedal). After starting it, he goes in the hut for his cup of tea. As the engine runs, the air presure builds up and the parking brake slowly releases because some numpty has drained the air, but not put the lever in the "on" position. The breakdown truck slowly rolls down the gentle hill and ends up in the pond ... The earlier comment about refilling the oild without putting the bumg back in - I've done that too, The oil stian on mother's drive was still there 20 years later. Kevin
  9. I can email pictures if you send me a PM with your email address (I've got no easy way to host them, so can't post on the Forum - or at least I think I can't) Seats and interior came from TR shop. The seats are very similar to the Mos aftermarket ones, but have a diamond shape in the leather that is very similar to the orignal Triumph pattern. Kevin
  10. Replying to own posting is a bit like talking to yourself - but I do that all the time.... Removed the steering wheel and boss (which was extremely tight) and inserted a home made, plastic insulating washer (cut from a plastic milk container - thanks to Pete Bailey for his suggestion) between the boss and the top of the column, heaving only the brass button being able to contact the ring. Reassembled and it all works fine now. Took the car for a test drive around the Meon Valley as there was a bright spell amongst the rain, just to check it really was fixed. Along the way, the fuel & temperature gauges stopped working, the alarm armed itself, the indicators and the brake lights all stopped working. Obviously, the fuse as they are all common. Drove home relying on hand signals, removed the fuse I thought was responsible, metered it and it was fine. Checked the other fuse - it was OK too. Now everythng is working as it should. Removed the fuse, checked it more carefully and found one of the end caps was loose and both ends were showing signs of corrosion. I suspect that going over a bump had dislodged a mechanically failing fuse. I've had this happen a lot with wire fuses, but never with the type that have a solid strip inside the glass segment. Next task to replace all the rear light gaskets with nice new ones I bought at Malvern. Old ones are like thin cardboard and are letting much from the road and exhaust into the lenses. Kevin
  11. Paint code is 096. Great choice of colour. I think the satin black rear panel (with soot features) has been addressed. I **think** a Sapphire Blue car shouldn't have a body coloured windscreen surround as this was only done on very early cars and Sapphire wasn't an available colour at that time. I've bought paint from various suppliers and it is all very similar in colour, although it isn't quite the same colour as my car, probably due to fading with age. Body colour goes well with a tan interior as well. Kevin
  12. The problem first started en route to Classic Le Mans last month. Driving through a small town in rural Normandy, a little old lady stepped out onto a pedestrian crossing. As I slowed to let her cross, the pressure on the steering wheel sounded the horn. What she said sounded very not in keeping with her appearance. At least they are only the original style twin-tones, not air horns. Anyway - lots of useful pointers to where the problem might lie - and talking to some other Wessex Group members today, it seems that self-actuating horns are almost a built in feature of our cars. At least the MOT test is only that the horn works Kevin
  13. Thanks, chaps - there is some play in the steering column if I pull hard on it, so that could well be the cause of my problem. It is embarrassing - yesterday , I came around a bend on a country lane and was confronted with the rear end of a large horse which required a rapid application of the brakes so I could go past slowly and quietly to avoid spooking the horse. The whole effort was totally defeated by the horn sounding:o . Kevin (Hornblower)
  14. I hope this isn't too dumb a question... My 6 has developed a habit of sounding the horn without the horn button being pushed. It has a Mota-Lita wheel and boss and the connection to the contact in the centre horn push is well insulated. The usual scenario is pressure on the steering wheel, for example when braking a little harder than usual. I've removed the horn push entirely to eliminate this as a cause and still if I press around the edge of the steering wheel hard enough, the horn will sound. I suspect that there is a short to ground somewhere. Is this a common problem and where are the obvious places to look first? I've not taken the wheel boss off yet... Kevin
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