Magoo Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 Hi all, I have a TR4A with overdrive. The gear lever rattles/vibrates when accelerating hard. I put some grease around the 'ball' and cover plate at the bottom of the gear lever where it goes into the gear box. This helped a little but it has come back. Is there a better/correct solution? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dykins Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 Magoo Interesting - I have the same problem! I was told that in my car's case it was a combination of when the gearbox was rebuilt, the previous owner forgot to insert an "anti rattle spring" at the base of the gear lever, and because I had an after market wooden gear knob it apparantly made the rattle worse. Anyway, have replaced the gear knob with an original and the rattle has eased considerably. Fitting the "anti rattle spring" is on the ever expanding jobs-to-do list Regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 Hi there's a spring AND plunger to fit, and they're a complete bugger to get in (swearing essential). The spring is virtually coil-bound on insertion. However, when it's done your rattle should have gone! Have fun! Adey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 Be careful with the spring choice as some of the ones around at the moment are too long and are coil bound before the pin goes in far enough to fit the gear lever into the selctors. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Robin Powell Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 I agree with Stuart, the spring provided is too long and impossible to insert. I shortened it and managed to insert it with its plunger and cured the rattle. I remember in the past ( in the 60s!) having the same problem in a TR2 and doing nothing about it for many thousands of miles without any ill effects. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ian richardson Posted September 28, 2007 Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 Be careful with the spring choice as some of the ones around at the moment are too long and are coil bound before the pin goes in far enough to fit the gear lever into the selctors.Stuart. I have had the same problem. By the time I got the spring and plunger into position, the gear lever was locked solid and could not move between the gears. I removed it and just packed it with grease. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 28, 2007 Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 I think a lot of the problem is the use of the pin instead of a ball bearing as some cars used to have, they are still a b****r to fit. If you measure the spring lengths from an original there is a fair bit of difference. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 And all these years I had thought that the rattle was to tell the driver and passenger that the engine was supposed to be accelerating the car! I've never even seen an anti-rattle spring and ball - they are lost as soon as the lever is removed the first time, and that will have been a very long time ago. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 And all these years I had thought that the rattle was to tell the driver and passenger that the engine was supposed to be accelerating the car! I've never even seen an anti-rattle spring and ball - they are lost as soon as the lever is removed the first time, and that will have been a very long time ago.Ian Cornish Hi all, I have developed a way to fit the plunger and spring, proceed as follows; With the lever off the car cut the spring down so the plunger can just be compressed flush with the lever with a mole grip Use a suitable jubille clip, stainless steel ones with the through slots are best and tighten it round the lever to compress the plunger so its nearly flush. Push the lever into position and as it locates the clip slides up the shaft. hold the lever square in this position and get a helper to remove the clip from below by undoing it completly and then screw in the lever retaining studs, or through bolt on a 4A. It might take a couple of goes to get it right but I have done 3 or 4 now and it always works eventually. The one on my 4A has been in 5 years now and it does not rattle any more. Hope this helps, Chris Hope this helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Magoo Posted October 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Hi all, I have developed a way to fit the plunger and spring, proceed as follows; With the lever off the car cut the spring down so the plunger can just be compressed flush with the lever with a mole grip Use a suitable jubille clip, stainless steel ones with the through slots are best and tighten it round the lever to compress the plunger so its nearly flush. Push the lever into position and as it locates the clip slides up the shaft. hold the lever square in this position and get a helper to remove the clip from below by undoing it completly and then screw in the lever retaining studs, or through bolt on a 4A. It might take a couple of goes to get it right but I have done 3 or 4 now and it always works eventually. The one on my 4A has been in 5 years now and it does not rattle any more. Hope this helps, Chris Hope this helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Magoo Posted October 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Many thanks for all the advice and words of wisdom. It is just an annoying noise, cannot hear the exhaust note properly, just the rattle! Will attempt this winter Thanks John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Magoo Posted January 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 Just now got down to fixing this. When I took the lever off there appeared to be no spring or plunger! However in the hole in the bottom of the lever there appears to be something stuck. It is movable and sits almost at surface level but does not appear to want to come out. Question. Is this the old plunger/spring stuck up the hole or is it something that is meant to be there? What depth should the hole be? I suspect that it might be the old plunger stuck without a spring but will take advice before I try removing it. How to get it out? Will now order new spring and plunger from Moss and see what appears. Thanks for all useful fitting advice so far, I will keep you informed John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 23, 2008 Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 Just now got down to fixing this. When I took the lever off there appeared to be no spring or plunger!However in the hole in the bottom of the lever there appears to be something stuck. It is movable and sits almost at surface level but does not appear to want to come out. Question. Is this the old plunger/spring stuck up the hole or is it something that is meant to be there? What depth should the hole be? I suspect that it might be the old plunger stuck without a spring but will take advice before I try removing it. How to get it out? Will now order new spring and plunger from Moss and see what appears. Thanks for all useful fitting advice so far, I will keep you informed John It could be the remnants with a broken spring jammed behind it. A sharp rap on a piece of wood with the hole downwards may eject it. Dont forget to check that the new spring and pin will go in far enough to fit the lever as it is usual now for the springs to be too long, Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 23, 2008 Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 Hi folks, with the roof off and doing 80MPH, sorry 70MPH and the radio on full whack - what rattle!!!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted January 24, 2008 Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 It could be the remnants with a broken spring jammed behind it. A sharp rap on a piece of wood with the hole downwards may eject it. Dont forget to check that the new spring and pin will go in far enough to fit the lever as it is usual now for the springs to be too long,Stuart. Hi, If the wood does not shift it try heating it up on the gas stove (not red hot which will affect the heat treatment but at least boiling) then quickly place it over a slightly opened vice with the plunger downwards and hit the back with a copper or hide hammer or with a hard hammer using a piece of wood to protect the lever. If this fails you could try drilling the plunger but it will need a pillar drill with a vice and a centre drill to stand much of a chance. In the meanwhile check out the price of a good secondhand lever, this may be the quickest route. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4Geoff Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Just now got down to fixing this. When I took the lever off there appeared to be no spring or plunger!However in the hole in the bottom of the lever there appears to be something stuck. It is movable and sits almost at surface level but does not appear to want to come out. Question. Is this the old plunger/spring stuck up the hole or is it something that is meant to be there? What depth should the hole be? I suspect that it might be the old plunger stuck without a spring but will take advice before I try removing it. How to get it out? Will now order new spring and plunger from Moss and see what appears. Thanks for all useful fitting advice so far, I will keep you informed John Hi Magoo - Would respectfully suggest you try someone like Revington for the spring and plunger - I tried Moss last year and their spring was about twice as long as it should have been and there was no way on earth it would have fitted - and it was all they had!! Geoff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Magoo Posted February 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 Hi all, thought you would like to know how I got on. As suggested I tapped the lever on a piece of wood and eventually the plunger and broken spring came out. The new one from Moss arrived and, yes, it was far too long. With a bit of experiamenting I eventually cut it down until it sat inside the hole just below the surface. This allowed the plunger to just sit slightly into the hole. The plunger I got from Moss was a cylinder without a rounded end so I decided to use the old one again which had a nice rounded end. I put some grease into the place where the lever sits, not a lot! Still wondering if I should put more before I completely reassemble the dash etc again? Anyway before fitting I thought that a cable tie would also help with assembly instead of the jubillee clip suggested-thought it might take up less space and be easier to cut after use! Managed to get one on and tightened ok. As it happened with the plunger sitting just into the hole it seemed to stay with a little grease so I went for it without a clip. I could see into the space between the box and the lever ball support so knew exactly where I was aiming for. Because the plunger is at a slight downward angle I was able to manipulate it in and holding pressure against the plunger it suddenly slipped in first time!!!! Someone else held it steady until I got the lever and cups bolted through. Job done! Well I think it is. I can feel the plunger working but will not know if it is cured until I get the car out in the spring. Thanks to all for the advice. It is good to know what to expect and how to overcome potential problems before they arrive. Regards to all John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 Don't know if it's relevant but I have just fitted one of Racetorations fancy harmonic dampers, and now no more gear lever rattle , even though less than two years ago I put in a new spring and plunger. Darryl told me that the damper not only protects the crankshaft but also the gearbox. Not sure if it's just me............................? Justin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 A really nice set of restoration photos there Justin, well done! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 A really nice set of restoration photos there Justin, well done! Johnny Hope you're refering to the car ! Thanks..... Just realised all my photos were on display now rectified, I hope!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 Hi all, thought you would like to know how I got on. As suggested I tapped the lever on a piece of wood and eventually the plunger and broken spring came out. The new one from Moss arrived and, yes, it was far too long. With a bit of experiamenting I eventually cut it down until it sat inside the hole just below the surface. This allowed the plunger to just sit slightly into the hole. The plunger I got from Moss was a cylinder without a rounded end so I decided to use the old one again which had a nice rounded end. I put some grease into the place where the lever sits, not a lot! Still wondering if I should put more before I completely reassemble the dash etc again? Anyway before fitting I thought that a cable tie would also help with assembly instead of the jubillee clip suggested-thought it might take up less space and be easier to cut after use! Managed to get one on and tightened ok. As it happened with the plunger sitting just into the hole it seemed to stay with a little grease so I went for it without a clip. I could see into the space between the box and the lever ball support so knew exactly where I was aiming for. Because the plunger is at a slight downward angle I was able to manipulate it in and holding pressure against the plunger it suddenly slipped in first time!!!! Someone else held it steady until I got the lever and cups bolted through. Job done! Well I think it is. I can feel the plunger working but will not know if it is cured until I get the car out in the spring. Thanks to all for the advice. It is good to know what to expect and how to overcome potential problems before they arrive. Regards to all John Finally, found this thread again so I can say thanks.. I remember reading this thread a while back thinking now here's a good idea and tonight I used it to replace my spring and plunger. Indeed a small cable tie will secure these pieces so the whole thing can be installed with no fuss. Due to everything (on a TR6 anyway) being curved you cant just strap a cable tie around the end of the shaft directly but I found that by making a "noose" and gradually making it smaller I got to the point that I could ease it over the end of the shaft to secure the compressed spring and plunger enough to let me shove it into the slot. The cable tie was ejected further up the shaft as a by product of that action where working under the rear end of the top cover I was able to snip the cable tie and remove it. This was a great suggestion and made something that has otherwise always been a PITA a simple operation. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 This was a great suggestion and made something that has otherwise always been a PITA a simple operation. Maybe I should know, but I don't. Give us a clue, please? AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 Maybe I should know, but I don't. Give us a clue, please? AlanR PITA - Pain In The A*s. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 Sounds like the gearbox rear mount might have had it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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