TR5 & TR6 Springs

[Gary Flinn]

Can anyone confirm if TR5 & TR6 Springs are the same?

 

There is a set of N.O.S Standard TR6 Springs on E-Bay with dimensions quoted as:

 

Front 261mm Long x 100mm Diameter

 

Rear 292mm Long x 95mm Diameter

 

My TR5 Is fitted with Moss Uprated and lowered springs which give too hard a ride for me and I'm thinking of changing to standard.

 

A link to the springs below hopefully, do these springs look like Stanpart N.O.S. Springs?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR6-PI-69-76-ROADSPRINGS-COMPLETE-SET-N-O-S-/282003713082?hash=item41a8bb2c3a:g:Uq0AAOSwbwlXBV7G

[openroad]

Hi Gary, I have just done my front suspension and fitted what Moss call their fast road spring, which looks more heavy duty than the old ones, which I thought were probably original, quite wallowy .

These also look quite heavy duty, but could easily be original.reasonable price too

My new slightly up rated give a good ride, and firmer when cornering,it's all a matter of personal needs,

Have fun,

Conrad

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Most people go for stronger rear springs to stop the wallow/sinkage issues.

 

The rears in the ebay ad do not look like a pair to me. different colour paint dabs.

 

I think the spec for OE coil springs is found in the ROM - it certainly is in the appropriate ROM for the sidescreen cars.

 

Peter W

Edited April 18, 2016 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[stuart]

The two rears dont even look to be the same wire gauge!

Stuart.

[Gary Flinn]

I reckon I'll give these a miss, maybe some new standard one off Moss or Rimmers are the way to go.

 

You guys have better eyes than me with regards to the Guage of the Coils?!!

[barkerwilliams]

Gary,

 

I went through three sets of new ever longer springs before I could get a reasonable ride height to clear road humps and a sensible not rock hard ride.

My advice would be to look at your existing ones for the dabbed paint codes which will tell you what you have on there at the moment. At worst whip off the rears and measure them - maybe half an hour at most. Then you can look at the literature for what is available then find a stockist. Many of the usual suppliers have different ideas what the original spring lengths were and only offer lowered harder springs.

 

Eventually I ended up with a wonderful set that rides smoothly, clears speed humps at sensible speeds, not two or three mph and keeps good adhesion on bumpy road surfaces not skipping over as the harder springs did.

 

I would not use mine for a track day on a decent road surface but great on the potholes around here.

 

Alan

[Peter Cobbold]

I reckon I'll give these a miss, maybe some new standard one off Moss or Rimmers are the way to go.

 

You guys have better eyes than me with regards to the Guage of the Coils?!!

The guage of the wire is absolutely critical: stiffness increases with the fourth power of the wire diameter.

 

Adding stiffer springs to the front only will make for more understeer. Adding stiffness to the rear only will reduce the built-in understeer that Triumph designed. Unless too much is added to the rear and then the car will overtsteer on the limit.

[KiwiTR5]

FYI I have attached a copy of an article originally published in TRaction #242 December 2012 I wrote that spells out how to update the rear suspension of TR5 & early TR6 to the later configuration with the stronger springs. It works!

 

Good luck

Dec 2012 TRaction 242 IRS Suspension Mods.pdf

[Gary Flinn]

I'm still thinking of changing the front and rear springs on my TR due to a harsh ride.

 

The Front and rear springs are both Powder Coated Red and the Rears still have the Part Number sticker on of GSV1001U (See photo?)

 

I believe they may have been purchased from TRGB and are lowered and uprated, can anyone tell me what rating the rears are likely to be?

 

I've had a look on the TRGB Site but I can't find anything telling me ratings.

[Peter Cobbold]

I reckon I'll give these a miss, maybe some new standard one off Moss or Rimmers are the way to go.

 

You guys have better eyes than me with regards to the Guage of the Coils?!!

The stiffness rises with the fourth power of the wire diameter:

http://www.engineersedge.com/spring_comp_calc_k.htm

So a visible gauge difference means a huge difference in stiffness and hence ride height etc.

Yes, give them a miss.

Peter

Edited May 11, 2016 by Peter Cobbold

[TRTOM2498PI]

Hi Gary,

 

You appear to be using SPAX dampers ?

 

Have you looked to see what setting they are at, or tried a softer setting before changing the road spring ?

 

I ask, as SPAX (if you have them installed), are very easy to soften and adjust in situ, with a screwdriver.

 

Apologies if you have exhausted already ?

 

 

Cheers.

[openroad]

Hi Gary, if you google gsv1001u, a register thread comes up, and indeed they are an uprated rear spring from TRGB, check out the thread.

Cheers,

Conrad

[Gary Flinn]

Hi Gary,

 

You appear to be using SPAX dampers ?

 

Have you looked to see what setting they are at, or tried a softer setting before changing the road spring ?

 

I ask, as SPAX (if you have them installed), are very easy to soften and adjust in situ, with a screwdriver.

 

Apologies if you have exhausted already ?

 

 

Cheers.

 

Tom

 

I haven't checked what setting they are at, so this is definitely a good idea.

 

Anyone else run Spax dampers and if so what are the preferred settings?

 

PS - I realize it is a sports car and I'm not expecting saloon car comfort but the ride is just too harsh for me at the moment

[Gary Flinn]

Hi Gary, if you google gsv1001u, a register thread comes up, and indeed they are an uprated rear spring from TRGB, check out the thread.

Cheers,

Conrad

 

Conrad

 

I realize they are uprated but just wondered by how much?

 

After searching on his site it would seem standard TR4A springs where 280 lbs/Inch and where originally criticized for being to soft, Original TR5 springs where around 320 lbs/Inch and still received criticism again from road testers for being to soft?

 

I believe the standard Springs available now are rated at 354 lbs/Inch which are the Later TR6 Types?

 

Some of the up rated ones are 420 Lbs/Inch (I'm guessing this is what I have fitted?)

[TR NIALL]

Anyone near you that competes in Rallying/ Motorsport should be able Measure the Spring Rates for you,a simple type Compression Tool with a Poundage Guage fitted should do the Job.

Edited May 11, 2016 by TR NIALL

[carld]

Gary I have adjustable spax fitted all round, can't tell you what the settings are though, but very simple to wind them down to the stiffest setting, go for a drive and keep adjusting until your happy. I also have spacers for the springs when your going away fully laden to keep the rear end from dragging on the ground when being given plenty

[peejay4A]

The fronts are a bit fiddly to sdjust as the spring coils get in the way.

Edited May 12, 2016 by peejay4A

[Gary Flinn]

Thanks for all the advice guys, I will have a go at softening up the Spax dampers at the weekend.

 

Got to replace the Tank and go for a test drive anyway to check I've solved my Miss-firing and cutting out problem.

 

Fingers crossed it will be problem solved?

[Guest ntc]

Gary

Be very careful you need to know what spax are fitted

[Gary Flinn]

Gary

Be very careful you need to know what spax are fitted

Neil

 

I know they are the adjustable types, a screwdriver is needed to adjust them.

 

I was going to loosen both front and rears 2 Clicks anticlockwise and see how the car rides?

[Guest ntc]

Gary

You need to find out how many clicks ,they go from 8/16/32 turn up to the top to find out,ask Clarky he found out the hard way.

[Gary Flinn]

I've no idea what type they are or what they are set at?

 

I suppose it won't be difficult to count the clicks anti-clockwise till I can't turn anymore then count clockwise till I hit the stop again to find out the total?

 

Any idea what the best settings are front and rear?

[Tom Fremont]

Hi Gary,

 

If you do change springs for a different stiffness there will probably be a change in the camber as a result. I bought " stock " springs for my '250s and in both cases they increased the ride height and gave positive camber in the rear - a big no-no. Playing with different bracket recipes I managed to get them back into negative territory ( 1/2 - 1 degree ). The left side required more correction on both cars, a mystery compounded by tales of the same experience by others.

 

A friend with a 240 BHP supercharged TR6 complimented my driver's suspension for its ability to smooth bumpy surfaces. His is of course " uprated " where mine uses all stock rubber bushes, springs and dampers ( OK, Konis in front ). Where I live the roads are often, er, irregular and I'm glad to have a modicum of softness in the suspension - it takes away none of the fun and puts me more at ease when I'm not flogging it.

 

Cheers,

Tom

[stuart]

I've no idea what type they are or what they are set at?

 

I suppose it won't be difficult to count the clicks anti-clockwise till I can't turn anymore then count clockwise till I hit the stop again to find out the total?

 

Any idea what the best settings are front and rear?

Make sure you have a small screwdriver and that it only engages in the small adjuster screw when unwinding them (Ask Clarkey how that is significant!) There are two types of Spax, early ones had about 12 clicks and the new ones something like 32 so start with the rears unwound to 0 and the fronts on about 4 and then chose a piece or road near to you that you know well then drive it round on that setting and increase the settings until you are happy. You will more than likely find that the rears wont need winding up much but the fronts will need a lot more. At least you dont have Konis as you have to take them off to adjust each time.

Stuart.

[Gary Flinn]

Ok, Sounds straight forward enough?

 

The Shocks aren't that old so should be 32 clicks, But I'll see