RogerH Posted May 27 Report Share Posted May 27 Hi Folks, I'm finding it hard to obtain decent bezels from the main suppliers. So I have made some to see what turns out. The attached pics are an original bezel and one that I made this morning. What are your views. Is it too angular compared to the original slightly curved version. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 27 Report Share Posted May 27 Looking good but yes you need a gentle curve all the way from back to front to be the same as original.There are different thread sizes for the various uses of them are you going to do all versions? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 27 Author Report Share Posted May 27 Hi Stuart, Yes, I agree with you. It is quite difficult to turn that curve on what was a cast item. But not impossible The majority are 9/16 x 24tpi (special) The rheostat is 9/16 x 28tpi (special) Heater fan 3/8 x 24 and the TR4A has a few odd ones compared to the TR4 but the base shape is of only two sizes And they will be chromed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox4 Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 Those look great Roger, just need edge "softened" a tad as Stuart notes - I want some> Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 Nice job Roger. I modified some standard ones to fit my heater controls. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 28 Author Report Share Posted May 28 6 hours ago, silverfox4 said: Those look great Roger, just need edge "softened" a tad as Stuart notes - I want some> Cheers Hi Alf, I will be softening them later today. It would be nice to have tool cut to that shape but today it will be free hand. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 (edited) 16 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Stuart, Yes, I agree with you. It is quite difficult to turn that curve on what was a cast item. But not impossible The majority are 9/16 x 24tpi (special) The rheostat is 9/16 x 28tpi (special) Heater fan 3/8 x 24 and the TR4A has a few odd ones compared to the TR4 but the base shape is of only two sizes And they will be chromed. Just embarking on this journey for the TR2. It has a TR4 wiper switch to power the two speed wiper Where was the 9/16 x 24 tap from? Do you know the thread size/pitch of the ignition switch ? We only have the Lucas hexagonal or deep nuts to retain it. I will probably go down the 303 or 304 stainless path and polish, chrome being stupid expensive unless you have sufficient weight for barrel plating. Thanks in advance Edited May 28 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 28 Author Report Share Posted May 28 Hi Peter, all taps and dies from TRacy Tools The Ign swit Bezel is 19mm x 0.75mm Bezel Dims.doc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 23 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Peter, all taps and dies from TRacy Tools The Ign swit Bezel is 19mm x 0.75mm Bezel Dims.doc 243 kB · 1 download Thank you Roger. I had suspected Tracy Tools as the place for the taps. I guess I should spend an hour setting up the lathe to single point turn the imperial internal threads. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 28 Author Report Share Posted May 28 Hi Pete If it is only the one or so threads you need tapping at 9/16x24 then bring it round here and use my tap. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 (edited) 57 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Pete If it is only the one or so threads you need tapping at 9/16x24 then bring it round here and use my tap. Roger Thank you for the kind offer Roger. It will be two for the wiper switch (9/16 x 24) plus two for the ignition switch. (M19 x .75). production technique will be to turn a tube that is more than deep enough for the required qty to be made. With tapping bore and correct od. Onto mill after that to slot face. Back in lathe to deburr & smooth radius. Part off to correct thickness. Repeat. Edited May 28 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 28 Author Report Share Posted May 28 Hi Pete, I will have a look to see if I have the M19 x 0.75 tap Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
North London Mike Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 (edited) Roger Very smart, just need the special tool for the last nip up Edited May 28 by North London Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 28 Author Report Share Posted May 28 52 minutes ago, North London Mike said: Roger Very smart, just need the special tool for the last nip up Indeed, I do them as well. Large and small Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glasgow4a Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 Excellent job as usual Roger can i collect at malvern for my 4a, cheers Ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 28 Author Report Share Posted May 28 Hi Ian, still in the design stage Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 29 Report Share Posted May 29 On 5/28/2024 at 10:46 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Thank you for the kind offer Roger. It will be two for the wiper switch (9/16 x 24) plus two for the ignition switch. (M19 x .75). production technique will be to turn a tube that is more than deep enough for the required qty to be made. With tapping bore and correct od. Onto mill after that to slot face. Back in lathe to deburr & smooth radius. Part off to correct thickness. Repeat. I’ve started so I will finish….. 1.5mm wide x 1.5mm deep slot for tightening Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 29 Author Report Share Posted May 29 Hi Pete, you mentioned a 'Ball Turning Attachment' for the lathe a few months back when you were doing gear knobs. I had to buy one. I am now attempting to make it fit my Chinese wonder. Nearly there. That curtve on the side of the bezel is just waiting to have its balls turned. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 29 Report Share Posted May 29 (edited) 3 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Pete, you mentioned a 'Ball Turning Attachment' for the lathe a few months back when you were doing gear knobs. I had to buy one. I am now attempting to make it fit my Chinese wonder. Nearly there. That curtve on the side of the bezel is just waiting to have its balls turned. Roger The trick of repeatability with the ball turning attachment is to lock the slide and set a lock stop on the slide way, once you find the correct set up. Have you considered grinding up a simple form tool to create the radius edge? Or just radius it freehand with a file. Edited May 29 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 30 Author Report Share Posted May 30 Hi Pete, Filing doesn't give the repeatability. Making a lathe tool is not easy for me. My grinder likes RSJ's and Mower cylinders The Ball Turning device is almost set up and should do a good repeatable job. I just need some M10x60mm cap screws from B&Q (this morning) If I can get each stage sorted for the best/quickest process then I can start on a batch. Attached is a pic of a quick way yo cut a 10mm slice o a 32mm round bar o Brass DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME. The angle grinder is securely strapped to the tool post. The cutting disc is a very very thin Plasma Disc apprx 1mm thick and it slices like a hot knie through butter. Out of camera shot I am wearing various amounts of PPE and standing to one side. Dangerous - Yes. But calculated. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 30 Author Report Share Posted May 30 Hi folks see attached pic - the side wall has now got a repeatable curve very similar to the OEM item Using the Ball Turning device certainly makes the operation quite simple. The tool does need to be set up spot on. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 31 Report Share Posted May 31 (edited) Excellent I see you have the vertical “real estate” problem I have to get the ball turning attachment under the chuck I often use collets or the tail stock chuck or my dinky little 80 mm 4 jaw self centring chuck, to get the tool below the rotating chuck. Have you seen this video about setting up a ball turner? Using known diameter pins to set the cutter or a flat faced pin to set to centre. It is a rather good way of doing things. Will mean some mods to your ball turner though. Edited August 3 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 31 Author Report Share Posted May 31 Aaah, spherical balls. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox4 Posted June 2 Report Share Posted June 2 great Roger - looks like you nailed it Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted June 2 Report Share Posted June 2 Please stop talking about nailing balls - it makes me shudder! Like everything which Roger undertakes, a marvellous standard (which includes the repair he made to the buckle of my original 1960s Volvo seat belt). Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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