Drewmotty Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 Here’s my wiring for the Fergie switch. 30 unswitched feed 15 switched feed from ign switch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 Exactly the same circuit as mine above, just using a different switch type. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted May 28 Author Report Share Posted May 28 “Drewmotty”, thanks for the diagram. What type switch did you use, pull/push? Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 3 minutes ago, Tr4aJim said: What type switch did you use, pull/push? The picture is in Andrew's link on the first page of the thread. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted May 28 Author Report Share Posted May 28 Oh, ok. Thanks Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted May 29 Author Report Share Posted May 29 Folks, here is another wiring diagram for adding Hazard flashers to my 4A (using LED indicators). The last one I sent was based on using TR250 components and adding a second flasher unit. However this one is based on Bob’s and Drewmotty’s diagrams that utilize the single flasher already installed for the indicators. First let me give a big tip of the hat to Bob for patiently answering my questions! Initially I am going to use the same type 3PDT On/On toggle switch Bob used, that I sourced locally. It’s least expensive and will be easier for the initial install. Once I get it all working, I’ll probably switch to the Hazard pull switch that Drewmotty used (I found one on US eBay). The LED compatible flasher I'm currently using is a 3 pin (P, B, L) unit made by “Flosser” (1621003). It does not have a separate ground wire. However, I also have a 3 pin (P, B, L) flasher unit made by “CEC” (EF-33RL/24414), that does have a separate ground wire. It should work for Hazards too, as it also works with my LED indicators. Please look over the diagram and give feedback. New wiring/components are in red. Again thanks to all who responded, you guys are a great resource!! Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 Not quite right Jim. Try this: Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted May 30 Author Report Share Posted May 30 Ahh, 4/5 down to L, thanks! I ordered the 3PDT ON/ON toggle switch, so as soon as it arrives I’ll get to work. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 Just now, Tr4aJim said: Ahh, 4/5 down to L, thanks! Also disconnected the green wire from the voltage stabiliser to the flasher. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted May 30 Author Report Share Posted May 30 Thank Rob, missed that one! Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted May 31 Author Report Share Posted May 31 Ok, here is my revised-revised diagram. Please give it one more check. Thanks! Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 31 Report Share Posted May 31 Again, nearly !! By taking the supply direct from the battery (via a fuse) the current does not pass through the ammeter. It would be more conventional to take that feed from the non battery side of the ammeter. Also (I missed this last time) The wiring to the ignition switch terminals was wrong. see below: Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted May 31 Author Report Share Posted May 31 Thanks Bob! So third times the charm? BTW - If you recall I made that same “12v source direct from the battery” mistake with my headlight relay config, and that you guys brought it to my attention. I relocated that to the 12v terminal on the ignition switch as well. So as a review, here’s what I currently (no pun intended) have connected to the ignition switch: 12v terminal - Alternator & Ammeter, feed to Headlight Relays, Horn Ign terminal - Alternator warning light, Coil/Distributor, feed (white wire) to fuse box, then (green wire) to an Electric Fuel Pump, (green wire) to the Voltage Stabilizer, then on to the new hazard switch Acc terminal - Headlight switch (DRL mod to guarantee headlights are off when the engine is off) Once I get the ok from you guys on the hazard wiring, I’ll create a combined diagram of all these mods I’ve made. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 31 Report Share Posted May 31 (edited) 2 hours ago, Tr4aJim said: Thanks Bob! So third times the charm? BTW - If you recall I made that same “12v source direct from the battery” mistake with my headlight relay config, and that you guys brought it to my attention. I relocated that to the 12v terminal on the ignition switch as well. So as a review, here’s what I currently (no pun intended) have connected to the ignition switch: 12v terminal - Alternator & Ammeter, feed to Headlight Relays, Horn, & fused feed to Hazard switch Ign terminal - Alternator warning light, Coil/Distributor, feed (white wire) to fuse box, then (green wire) to an Electric Fuel Pump, (green wire) to the Voltage Stabilizer, then on to the new hazard switch Acc terminal - Headlight switch (DRL mod to guarantee headlights are off when the engine is off) I would have connected this via a relay to avoid full headlamp current being pulled through ignition switch Once I get the ok from you guys on the hazard wiring, I’ll create a combined diagram of all these mods I’ve made. Jim Comments in red above Bob Edited May 31 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted May 31 Author Report Share Posted May 31 Thanks again Bob! The switch arrived today. Just waiting on the color coded wires I ordered. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David B2 Posted June 3 Report Share Posted June 3 I used the SBF300 unit. As a system worked well. Stripped it down and fitted into the dash. Some years earlier I purchased a replacement wooden RHD dashboard at Stoneleigh for my rebuild. In my ignorance at that time it was for a 4 not a 4A and had a hole cut for the panel lights Rheostat to the right of the rev counter; not used on the 4A. I fitted the Push button of the SBF300 their and it all fitted well and looked the part. David B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted June 5 Report Share Posted June 5 (edited) You might also find some interesting comments on this much older post and its own links or this one ( am getting strange duplicates of links so hope that works. As posted in another link I purchased a system from eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235022478156?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gnvCGhCvRzm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=4URzF6V3RUK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY it’s basically a switch, relay and two diodes, pre-wired. Paul Edited June 5 by PaulAnderson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted June 9 Author Report Share Posted June 9 (edited) Well folks…………………… I HAVE HAZARD FLASHERS! I basically used Bobs wiring schematic (as well as pestering him with a ton of questions), and using a 9 pin 3PDT On/On switch. With the switch on one position, and the ignition on, I get normal indicators. With the switch in the other position, and the ignition off or on, I get hazards. The configuration utilizes the single LED compatible flasher I have been using for the indicators. The indicator light on the dash also works with the hazards. The wires are all over the place at the moment, as I wanted to test things before finalizing the wire runs, but before I tidy things up, I’m going to try and swap in the same 7 pin Ferguson Tractor hazard switch that Andrew used. I’m thinking of mounting that in place of the dash light rheostat, which I never use. TBD Once everything is finalized, I will post a new wiring diagram, in case others want to go down this road. Anyway, thanks to all of you for your help and suggestions, and a huge tip of the cap to Bob. cheers Jim Edited June 9 by Tr4aJim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 9 Report Share Posted June 9 You sound pleased Jim - and rightly so. Well done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted June 11 Author Report Share Posted June 11 Here’s an update - With Andrew’s help I succeeded in swapping in the 7 pin Ferguson hazard switch! A nice feature of this switch is the knob lights up in hazard mode. I was hoping to mount it in place of the dash light rheostat (which I never use anymore). However the Ferguson switch is just a little too big to fit in the plinth. So I’m going to make a mounting bracket for it, and mount it just to the driver side of the plinth. I will make a second “final” wiring diagram based on the Ferguson switch, and a “final” diagram based on the 3PDT switch, and post them both here to close out this thread. Stay tuned. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted June 12 Author Report Share Posted June 12 Folks here are my latest wiring diagrams- one with the 3PDT switch, and one with the Ferguson hazard switch. cheers Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 13 Report Share Posted June 13 Very good, well done Jim. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted August 8 Report Share Posted August 8 Following this thread, I obtained a Lucas Hazard switch at one of the shows (It's a JL155SA - normally fitted to Bedford/Volvo), I guess it should be usable in the TR4a? It has 7 tails (G/R, G/W, LtG/K, LtG/N, G(x2) & G/B plus centre B for earth) ; would I need a separate flasher unit (LEDs)? VMT David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 8 Report Share Posted August 8 (edited) That is intended to use a separate 2-pin flasher relay for the hazards, which has an un-switched power connection. LtG/K goes to the output of the hazard flasher unit. G/R and G/W connect to the existing indicator lamp feeds from the indicator switch. The two G are both switched-power in - you only need one of those, connected to the existing power lead for the indicator flasher unit. LtG/B is power to the existing indicator flasher unit in place of the original connection. B is earth for the internal lamp. (You may find the bulb fitted is a 24v one depending on the application. The end of the pull-knob unscrews to get at it.) What is supposed to happen is that normally with the switch off, G connects to LtG/B providing power to the indicator flasher unit. Everything else is on the switch is disconnected. When you pull the switch on, G to LtG/B is disconnected, removing power from the flasher unit. At the same time the new hazard flasher output on LtG/K is connected to both G/R and G/W and to the internal bulb. It ought to work OK with LEDs as long as the hazard flasher is the right type. Edited August 8 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted August 8 Report Share Posted August 8 Thanks Rob, that's clear. The bulb in the pull-knob is missing, what type should it be? Rgds David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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