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engine breather / catch tank


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I am going to fit an oil catch tank to the inner wing of my 3A. I will need to make one of these fittings to push into the hole in the side of the block with a AN10 thread on it. Not a problem to turn one on the lathe with a thread on but does anyone know the diameter of the hole in the block where it pushes into?

I will run a second tube to a mounting on the side of the rocker cover using black braided nylon tubing with AN10 fittings.

This will hopefully provide better breathing to the engine especially the top as that has a tiny hole in the cap and hopefully prevent extra oil being put onto the road.

This set up should make a neat installation and nice little project for the weekend

breather.jpg

tr engine.jpg

catch tank.PNG

catch tank 2.PNG

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Hi I have just measured the original breather hole as mine had I was sure a 28mm copper plumbing pipe and elbow which worked very well fitted with a bit of mastic

hope this helps. Actual is 28.34mm. With precision Aldi caliper

IMG_0110.jpeg

Edited by Hamish
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4 hours ago, Rocketman said:

I am going to fit an oil catch tank to the inner wing of my 3A. I will need to make one of these fittings to push into the hole in the side of the block with a AN10 thread on it. Not a problem to turn one on the lathe with a thread on but does anyone know the diameter of the hole in the block where it pushes into?

I will run a second tube to a mounting on the side of the rocker cover using black braided nylon tubing with AN10 fittings.

This will hopefully provide better breathing to the engine especially the top as that has a tiny hole in the cap and hopefully prevent extra oil being put onto the road.

This set up should make a neat installation and nice little project for the weekend

breather.jpg

tr engine.jpg

catch tank.PNG

catch tank 2.PNG

Does your engine currently have the snorkel type breather pipe fitted in the side of the block?  If not be prepared for a bit of a game in removing the core plug that is in the hole that you want to place the breather in.

 

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I turned up an aluminum elbow with an O ring to fit inside the block. It has a small flange on the outer surface against the block. I then taped a small (3mm) thread next to the block breather hole and after fitting the new elbow screwed in a short screw with a washer that worked with the flange to prevent the elbow coming out. The elbow was then secure but could be turned to any direction required. This has been in place for about 12 years now.

I did this with the engine out so would be a bit hard with it installed. It may be a bit to understand exactly what I done from this description but I am down at the Melbourne F1 so cant take any pictures.

Brian

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  • 1 month later...

Well top breather hose fitted and bottom plug for the block made. The plug I made 1.125" diameter to fit into the hole in the block but just need an O ring to seal it and a retainer that I will make to stop it vibrating out. The plug I drilled and tapped 3/8 bsp (only because I have a set of taps that size) and screwed in an AN10 x 3/8 bsp fitting. The snorkel breather has been removed so I just need to fit it neatly then pipe up the fuel pressure regulator/filter I have also installed (I fitted this because the car now has an electric fuel pump)

catch 1.jpg

catch 2.jpg

catch 3.jpg

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3 hours ago, Rocketman said:

Well top breather hose fitted and bottom plug for the block made. The plug I made 1.125" diameter to fit into the hole in the block but just need an O ring to seal it and a retainer that I will make to stop it vibrating out. The plug I drilled and tapped 3/8 bsp (only because I have a set of taps that size) and screwed in an AN10 x 3/8 bsp fitting. The snorkel breather has been removed so I just need to fit it neatly then pipe up the fuel pressure regulator/filter I have also installed (I fitted this because the car now has an electric fuel pump)

 

 

 

Dont forget as you have an electric pump to fit a collision switch for safety.

Stuart.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, John Morrison said:

That's a really tidy installation, 

Well Done.Presumably the catch tank was off the shelf?

John.

Yes and a lot cheaper than some for sale £16.50

 

Edited by Rocketman
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6 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Is there a specified capacity for oil catch tanks if competing in UK?

 Hill climbs , sprints etc.

No but most go with a litre

circuits I think is 5 litres for all  fluid catchment 

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On 4/29/2024 at 11:24 AM, stuart said:

Dont forget as you have an electric pump to fit a collision switch for safety.

Stuart.

Hi Stuart

Do you have any recommendations for a collision switch supplier?

Cheers

Dave 

 

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I think there are 35 fluid ounces in a litre.  

At 5 ozs that is a fairly small capacity - sort of yogurt pot sized.

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2 hours ago, dpb said:

 

Do you have any recommendations for a collision switch supplier?

 

I'm sure Stuart will be along soon but in the meantime.

 I got mine from a scrapyard, it's from a Ford Focus and cost a massive £5 including a good length of the wiring harness with the matching plug.

George 

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2 hours ago, Rocketman said:

IMG_2692.jpeg

I just spotted your distributor timing is 180 degrees out compared to standard.  If it does not confuse you or the person who services the car leave well alone.

To Rectify.  With the engine set on No 1 firing remove the housing and distributor.  The drive gear drops in with the keyway starting at 90 degrees to the engine block.  As it rotates into the cam gear the drive slot of the gear ends up pointing at NO1 spark plug.....unless whoever built the distributor put the offset drive dog on wrong.

Refit the housing with as thick a gasket pack as came out as that sets the end float of the drive gear in its housing.  Too tight and your cam and gear get damaged.  This is a TR250 failure 

IMG_2069.jpg

IMG_2062.jpg

IMG_2067.jpg

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9 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I just spotted your distributor timing is 180 degrees out compared to standard.  If it does not confuse you or the person who services the car leave well alone.

To Rectify.  With the engine set on No 1 firing remove the housing and distributor.  The drive gear drops in with the keyway starting at 90 degrees to the engine block.  As it rotates into the cam gear the drive slot of the gear ends up pointing at NO1 spark plug.....unless whoever built the distributor put the offset drive dog on wrong.

Refit the housing with as thick a gasket pack as came out as that sets the end float of the drive gear in its housing.  Too tight and your cam and gear get damaged.  This is a TR250 failure 

IMG_2069.jpg

IMG_2062.jpg

IMG_2067.jpg

Thanks for that, I will check it. I did notice it was set 180 out but as yet not done anything about it. Its on a list of jobs I will attend to. Next job is piping the fuel pleasure/filter regulator up then re setting the carburettors

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10 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I just spotted your distributor timing is 180 degrees out compared to standard.  If it does not confuse you or the person who services the car leave well alone.

To Rectify.  With the engine set on No 1 firing remove the housing and distributor.  The drive gear drops in with the keyway starting at 90 degrees to the engine block.  As it rotates into the cam gear the drive slot of the gear ends up pointing at NO1 spark plug.....unless whoever built the distributor put the offset drive dog on wrong.

Refit the housing with as thick a gasket pack as came out as that sets the end float of the drive gear in its housing.  Too tight and your cam and gear get damaged.  This is a TR250 failure 

IMG_2069.jpg

IMG_2062.jpg

IMG_2067.jpg

Just curious as to the gasket mentioned as I haven't had the distributor out and cant see a gasket shown on the moss site

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.  The clearance you want is detailed in the service manual and how to establish.  Most recent engine I did needed 3 gaskets to get the setting.  
Item 5 here

 

IMG_5915.png

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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