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Rear Fire wall Tr4A


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As usual I am always thinking 2 projects ahead of what I am working on at the moment. Just sorting out a oil catch tank and I have managed to source some  K&N air filters at a not reasonable but cheaper price by£60.00 than my usual supplier or anywhere else I have seen advertised.

I've got about 4 weeks before I drop the diff out and take it to be checked. So my next biggish project is a rear fire wall. I have found a post on somebody fitting a firewall to a TR3A however I cannot find one on the 4/4A. As anybody got any pictures of one they might have done. Revington mention folding a flange at the bottom of the panel to make a better seal again has anybody got pictures of this or are they talking about fitting it from the boot  with the tank out. I hope to fit it from the passenger compartment.

Also this is a soft top do you have to take the soft top and frame off.

Thank you as usual for all the helpful advice  the club member take the time and trouble to give me .

Phil.

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Hi Phil

I've just finished fabricating and fitting a fuel barrier on my 4A made from 18g rather than the  aluminium offering from Revington. I wont' be racing the car, so the extra weight of the steel isn't an issue for me, plus its more rigid and will provide additional stiffening. The comment made in the article Drewmotty posted is true, in that the  2 'wings' over the wheel arch take a bit of fettling. I fitted mine between the tank and the frame rather than from the inside as I didn't want the panel thickness  to infringe the rear upholstered panel. I can't comment on the removal of the soft top as mine is still in shell state but can't see why you would need to remove it (Stuart might be along to answer that one). I used the tank board as a template; don't try and be too clever by being exact at this stage, add a margin!!

Not worth me posting  a photo as mine is exactly as the photo in the article,  although I think I'll pinch the idea of fitting a flange over the diff housing as well as sealing all round with intumescent mastic. Good luck, choose a day when patience is in abundance:D

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Hi Phil, I have a template for a 4a firewall which I used for mine. If you want to PM me your address I can send you a paper copy

David

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Thanks david I have pm you. i know doing the ears is a pig I did my Avenger and the time taken on the side bits was 5 times longer than the centre panel.

I have sent you a pm but just with my email address sorry just reread your post and will send you my address and thanks for your help.

 

Phil

Edited by phil Dean
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You only need to undo the rear bar of the soft top and then fold the rear of the hood forward onto the frame, Ive not long done this on a 5, biggest problem with that one as it had been restored sometime previously and whoever did it had replaced the rear deck but hadnt fitted rivnuts in the deck for the rear hood bar and just nut and bolted the bar down. Obviously with a firewall in place that was not viable so I had to fit rivnuts (Theres a separate thread somewhere of the faff I had to find the right size ones!) then I could fit the firewall. I usually make them in 3 pieces with the main section being patterned from the rear cockpit board and in 18SWG ally then the two sides made with the use of CAD (Cardboard aided design)

Heres one in a 6 same fitting obviously. One thing to point out is if fitting one to a 6 with an ally tank and a Surrey rear its nigh on impossible to get to fit the nuts up under the back as the 6 deck is slightly flatter across and you cant get your hands in so it needs the tank easing back.

Stuart.

 

IMG_5054.JPG

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Phil, this is the one I did in 2mm Ali sheet (as per the template I'll send you), sealed around the edges with Intumescent Sealant, the profile worked out pretty well with a gap on the RHS for the loom to run

Rgds David

Firewall.JPG

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I put the Revington kit in my 4A. I sealed all the joints with 3M “fire-barrier”. The hardest part was getting a good fit in the upper corner “ears”. I added pictures with details of these pieces. Also I did this with the interior already in place, so that added to the complexity. I had to peal back the wheel arch covers a bit. I am no metal worker, so if I can get this to work, anyone can.

Jim

 

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Edited by Tr4aJim
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Wow. Thanks for all the fantastic replies I can always work better with Pictures I hadn't thought about the rivnuts on the back. Now I understand about the up turned flange on the one from Revington. I will cut and paste all these into the TR file on my computer then I can come back and refer to them.

Phil.

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Having been hit from behind in a Spitfire, hard enough to squash the tank: the filler cap burst open and fuel entered the cockpit, showering me. The tank and filler are similarly sited as in the TRs.

It didn't catch fire but I got out pronto.

The firewall won't prevent this but should keep leaking fuel out of the cockpit.

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3 hours ago, phil Dean said:

TBH Andy I was thinking of changing the filler cap I have never trusted that type of cap it almost like you look at it and it will flip open. Want something similar but with a over centre clamp on it. 

Phil

I have a new unused but marked USA spec TR6 fuel cap that clips closed with a spring latch operated from below the flip up bit.

Yours for £50.00 plus postage

The first picture is of a cap for sale in USA

The following pictures are the cap I have with detail of the marks on it.

See the link at the end to the discussion on fuel caps.  The cap requires either a screwed in vent line or the screwed in vent line blocking and the rubber seal piercing like a UK spec cap.

723040-713040-Triumph-TR6-Alloy-gas-cap-2-1-1536x1152.thumb.jpg.e6330e857278569197d018b088e641ba.jpg

 

 

Views of the cap I have for sale follow.   Yours for £50.00 plus postage

 

IMG_5620.thumb.jpeg.223f3e6fc6a245d690deb45ee504f475.jpeg.868706f63e015c5ebd1b497575dd1891.jpegIMG_5619.thumb.jpeg.4585a64e3193155b47badffe532bf8fc.jpeg.1c035d8c96260a213d6239d9119d391a.jpegIMG_5618.thumb.jpeg.2c0c7fd8f64455c364f85a8ced258656.jpeg.96eb574225ac6a1b2ecb66bd184cb7e8.jpegIMG_5617.thumb.jpeg.3c770a117a44affa7e437de06379ca7a.jpeg.bbceda92daf7f7624cc649b6ff792922.jpeg

 

 

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Or you could fit a locking insert, made by Marco Zelano (on the Forum), saves changing your cap and gives fuel security also, really good fit

Rgds David

fuel cap locking.jpg

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