qkingston Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 Something that has been bugging me for a while is how the L & R door windows sit compared to each other. The LH sits with fairly parallel gaps to the screen frame and the backlight and seems to sit pretty central. The RH window is more canted so that the leading edge touches the screen capping and the trailing edge nearly touches the backlight at the top. Door gaps are good both sides and the fact that the screen frame and the backlight would logically be the same angle on the L & R sides, even a tilting of the RH glass wouldn't sort the problem. I have read in previous posts about the lack of availability of 4a glass in the past and the fitting of TR6 glass instead. Question is would this RH glass look to fit that scenario, ie its the wrong glass, is this what an incorrect glass looks like? Many thanks for advice David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 Hi David, there are many areas where things can sit oddly comparing laft & Right. Did you place both glass panels against each other to see if they are identical. It is the bottom edge that is different between TR4/4A and TR5/6. Do both glasses sit in the bottom channels the same Are they both fore and aft the same. Is the centre pivot for the regulator in the identical place both sides - there is slight vertical movement that can affect things. If you can't find a difference/problem then there is an escape For the glass that is sitting wrong it is possible to rotate it slightly by cutting into a regulator arm and bending it slightly. This feels savage but works. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted January 14 Author Report Share Posted January 14 Thanks Roger, I'll have a check of your suggestions, the bit I can't quite get my head round is that any rotation of the glass would look to make one side better but the other worse, but I guess a bit of fore/aft and a bit of rotation might make the difference; I'll have a look Thank you David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phil Dean Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 Thanks Roger I have a similar problem But both drivers and passengers windows are the same, when I wind them fully up they are touching the screen surround at the top,and yet at the bottom you can almost poke your finger through the gap between the Screen frame and side window glass. Because mine is a soft top I dont have the reference point at the back like the pictures above showing the targa. Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Colin Symonds Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 When I bought my 4a I had a similar problem. When TRGB were doing my engine rebuild I had them look at it for me and yes, I had a TR6 window in the drivers side. They replaced my drivers door window with a 4a one and I now have perfect fitting windows in my Surrey top. When i checked back in all of the paperwork the drivers window had been replaced some years earlier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 Also....Have you compared the measurements across the top of the A to B pillars? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 23 hours ago, qkingston said: Something that has been bugging me for a while is how the L & R door windows sit compared to each other. The LH sits with fairly parallel gaps to the screen frame and the backlight and seems to sit pretty central. The RH window is more canted so that the leading edge touches the screen capping and the trailing edge nearly touches the backlight at the top. Door gaps are good both sides and the fact that the screen frame and the backlight would logically be the same angle on the L & R sides, even a tilting of the RH glass wouldn't sort the problem. I have read in previous posts about the lack of availability of 4a glass in the past and the fitting of TR6 glass instead. Question is would this RH glass look to fit that scenario, ie its the wrong glass, is this what an incorrect glass looks like? Many thanks for advice David I would say you have a 5/6 glass fitted, the correct 4/4a glasses were unavailable for years hence why this topic comes up now and then, I had the same problem with my 4a restored 30 yrs ago and with the soft top fitted the fit was sort of acceptable but when I fitted the Surrey and the hard roof it became obvious so I swapped the glasses and now have a good fit. You can see it in this picture before the swap. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 Stuart is absolutely correct David. I have a 4A restored some years ago when 4A glass was unavailable, hence TR5 glass was fitted. I have kept mine with the TR5 glass fitted as it fits quite well with no water ingress. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 Thank you all for your suggestions. I seem to recall comparing the window glasses and checking measurements after someone (might have been you Roger) kindly posted a sketch of the different window dimensions; unfortunately I didn't take any photos of the comparison. It is still possible that there could be an incorrect glass on one side, although as the car came from California; I don't know whether there was a similar non-availability of 4a window glasses stateside? What I did was to adjust the windscreen rake slightly to improve the top RH gap, it's not perfect but at least the glass doesn't hit the screen capping now and is within a mm from top to bottom between the glass and the frame. I also discovered that 2 of the clamp screws had slightly stripped threads and might have allowed a bit of movement in the screen frame. Like many others, I removed the rusted metal channels which run down the inner side of the frame into which the original seal fits during the rebuild. Without this seal (replaced with the Woolies seal as recommended by Stuart) there is quite a gap between the frame and the front edge of the glass (as per photo) do people fit any other seal to the inner edge of the frame ??? Many thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Seber Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 This has jogged my memory, I wonder if someone can shed some light on a window/roof gap. Mohair hood from Moss fitted by a local trimmer before I purchased the car. I put the roof up at a local show when rain was imminent and noticed the window finished an inch or so under the external sealing flap on both sides, pretty sure I would get pretty wet if driving it in the rain. incorrectly fitted roof or door glass? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 4 hours ago, qkingston said: Thank you all for your suggestions. I seem to recall comparing the window glasses and checking measurements after someone (might have been you Roger) kindly posted a sketch of the different window dimensions; unfortunately I didn't take any photos of the comparison. It is still possible that there could be an incorrect glass on one side, although as the car came from California; I don't know whether there was a similar non-availability of 4a window glasses stateside? What I did was to adjust the windscreen rake slightly to improve the top RH gap, it's not perfect but at least the glass doesn't hit the screen capping now and is within a mm from top to bottom between the glass and the frame. I also discovered that 2 of the clamp screws had slightly stripped threads and might have allowed a bit of movement in the screen frame. Like many others, I removed the rusted metal channels which run down the inner side of the frame into which the original seal fits during the rebuild. Without this seal (replaced with the Woolies seal as recommended by Stuart) there is quite a gap between the frame and the front edge of the glass (as per photo) do people fit any other seal to the inner edge of the frame ??? Many thanks David I would refit [no need to weld, panel type adhesive will work] some new steel channel and fit the appropriate rubber seal into the channel....likewise the B pillar of the hard top.......Did you measure across the top? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 17 Report Share Posted January 17 14 hours ago, Malbaby said: I would refit [no need to weld, panel type adhesive will work] some new steel channel and fit the appropriate rubber seal into the channel....likewise the B pillar of the hard top.......Did you measure across the top? No need to do that for the windscreen, fit item 24 here as fitted to TR5/6 Seal frame. If you have a Surrey then the channel will probably still be there or it can be retro fitted by riveting as it was originally items 2 and 4 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/weather-equipment/hard-tops/surrey-top-fittings-tr5-tr250-1967-68.html Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted January 17 Author Report Share Posted January 17 Thanks Stuart, that first one is the ones I'm missing, I have the backlight channel and seal in place. Do you use the sponge type item? There are 2 listed Rgds David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 17 Report Share Posted January 17 16 minutes ago, qkingston said: Thanks Stuart, that first one is the ones I'm missing, I have the backlight channel and seal in place. Do you use the sponge type item? There are 2 listed Rgds David It largely depends on the final gap as to which one you use, Moss is out of stock of the sponge one at the moment (Thats for a large gap) I also sometimes use one from these guys too as you can get a better in between fit https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shop/category/rubber-extrusions-p-sections-457 Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted January 17 Author Report Share Posted January 17 Thanks Stuart David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted January 17 Author Report Share Posted January 17 18 hours ago, Malbaby said: I would refit [no need to weld, panel type adhesive will work] some new steel channel and fit the appropriate rubber seal into the channel....likewise the B pillar of the hard top.......Did you measure across the top? Thanks Mal, I did and L & R are within a mm Rgds David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 19 Report Share Posted January 19 On 1/15/2024 at 12:15 PM, stuart said: I would say you have a 5/6 glass fitted, the correct 4/4a glasses were unavailable for years hence why this topic comes up now and then, I had the same problem with my 4a restored 30 yrs ago and with the soft top fitted the fit was sort of acceptable but when I fitted the Surrey and the hard roof it became obvious so I swapped the glasses and now have a good fit. You can see it in this picture before the swap. Stuart. Hi Stuart, I am just curious as to what changed on the 5/6 that makes the windows different to the 4/4a? I could understand the 6 being different but thought that the 4 and 5 would have been the same, being the same shape body, yet from your photo above it seems the roof line was different, perhaps a lower windscreen frame, is that so?. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 19 Report Share Posted January 19 Different regulator Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 19 Report Share Posted January 19 24 minutes ago, RogerH said: Different regulator Roger Cheers Roger, yes I can understand why that could entail a different window, but I was looking at Stuart`s photo and it seems like if the window was pushed up at the front to meet the roof line then the front and back edges would be out of alignment with the screen and surrey frame which is what confused me. Anyway, being a sidescreen owner I don`t have that problem . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted January 19 Report Share Posted January 19 (edited) The "B" post is different on the 5, the door has different locking mechanism and the wind up mechanism is different .. so is the window These continued on the 6 as I understand it MichaelH Edited January 19 by MichaelH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted January 19 Author Report Share Posted January 19 On 1/17/2024 at 4:13 PM, stuart said: It largely depends on the final gap as to which one you use, Moss is out of stock of the sponge one at the moment (Thats for a large gap) I also sometimes use one from these guys too as you can get a better in between fit https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shop/category/rubber-extrusions-p-sections-457 Stuart. I contacted Moss and they had stock in another branch, so I got that today and it's an excellent fit, jobs a good un! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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