rvwp Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 Hi Guys, The radiator on my 4A seems to be too high and touches the underneath of the bonnet strengthening member, even though it's bolted directly to the chassis, no spacers are used, therefore as low as possible. Having looked at several 4A's at the TR@70 yesterday, the top hose seems to be horizontal, whereas mine is pointing down, yet the top of the radiator still touches the bonnet. I recently had a boil over for no apparent reason, now I'm wondering as the hose points down the level of water in the radiator is very high and this might have been the reason. My radiator was supplied by SC Parts No ARK30160 171679-201805 sold to me as correct for a 4A. Have I been sold a pup!! Photo's attached showing my installation. Any comments are appreciated. Thanks Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 Looks lower than mine and also puts my engine bay to shame Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted August 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 Hi Jase, Well I guess yours hasn't had a 2 year complete nut and bolt rebuild . Your radiator looks the same shape at the top as mine but I guess your not having the bonnet fouling? Oddly Moss show two radiators for the TR4A, part number 402001 with sloping top which would possibly eliminate my problem, but the fixing is not via the two side studs, but top brackets. The other one on offer is as mine and yours which I guess is original with side stud fixing with body monted brackets. Confusing. Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Colin Symonds Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 (edited) Here is my '67 4A, I do seem to have a sloping top to my radiator. I have put a straight edge off the top of the radiator to the wing and along the top of the alli rocker cover. No hint of the radiator touching the bonnet. Also it seems In fact my bonnet member is outside the line of the radiator one 'hole' to the left of yours. Edited August 13, 2023 by Colin Symonds Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 Rich, It looks like you may have a TR4 bonnet fitted with a parallel reinforcement. The TR4A bonnet reinforcement is angled to avoid the radiator as Colins photo shows. Can you show us a photo of the complete underside of the bonnet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 I suggest checking how much free space you have under the bottom of the radiator...If there is sufficient space, then your easiest recourse to the problem is to modify the mounting tabs on the sides of the radiator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted August 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2023 Um . strange my bonnet is a long hump as it should be according to Bill Piggott's bible as the car number is 64837CT. However the reinforcing bar is parallel to the bonnet line ends between the 2nd and 3rd holes. Colin's photo shows his bar ending between the 1st and 2nd hole, not parallel to the bonnet line thus avoiding the top of the radiator. The bonnet came on the car which had been unused since 1982 and appeared to be original. Certainly the reinforcing bar is in it's original factory position. Yes, I can possibly lower the rad by repositioning the mounting brackets and lowering the rad perhaps 3/8 to 1/2 inch and move it forward a bit which would resolve the interference problem, but would this create more issues with the level of the top of the rad relative to engine water level? Any comments ? Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 14, 2023 Report Share Posted August 14, 2023 The problem is the re-enforcing bar in the TR4 position, they had a slightly narrower taller rad. The fact that it has a long bulge is irrelevant as they were fitted from CT6430 TR4 There are 3 different bonnets, early short bulge/straight re-enforcing bar from CT1 to CT6429. Long bulge/straight re-enforcing bar from CT6430 to CT37689 and finally Long bulge/angled re-enforcement from CT37690 through to end of TR4A production. I suspect your car had a replacement bonnet sometime in the intervening years from new to 82 Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted August 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2023 Ah well thanks Stuart. I will lower the position of the rad by 3/8 inch and move it forward a bit which will avoid contact. I'm not changing the bonnet! It's strange that the original colour of the car from factory was Wedgewood blue as it is now. The bonnet does not show any signs of any colour other Wedewood blue in all those difficult areas to paint. Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trchris Posted August 14, 2023 Report Share Posted August 14, 2023 Hi Rich could you not tilt the top of the back by 1/2 or so as you’re removed mechanical fan there’s plenty of room all you need to do then would be drill extra holes in the top mounting brackets and shorten top hose accordingly??? Just a thought Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted August 14, 2023 Report Share Posted August 14, 2023 Could the stays be a bit too long, does the top of the rad tilt forward a bit, may be easier to short them a bit? I thought they should be nearly vertical? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 14, 2023 Report Share Posted August 14, 2023 3 hours ago, rvwp said: Ah well thanks Stuart. I will lower the position of the rad by 3/8 inch and move it forward a bit which will avoid contact. I'm not changing the bonnet! It's strange that the original colour of the car from factory was Wedgewood blue as it is now. The bonnet does not show any signs of any colour other Wedewood blue in all those difficult areas to paint. Rich It may well have been renewed and painted within the first few years of the cars life starting with a bare factory panel Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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