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Engine cut-outs


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I'm no expert, but this happened to me last summer after a long run on a warm sunny day. Several people suggested that the fuel pump overheated (Bosch pump in the boot space). 

It happened a couple of times both on hot days and after sitting idling; once in traffic at a level crossing, and once in a car-park waiting for my OH.

Now tend to avoid sitting with the engine idling in warm weather and it hasn't happened since.

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Save some money first and change the rotor arm and coil out (Both from DizzyDoctor) if its something else down the line at least you have a spare coil.

Andy

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Yes rotor arm is a known problem with that rivet.Ditch it and make sure it goes into the disposal bin.There is some fake red rotor arms about. Dizzy doc ones have DD stamped on them ( but easily stamped)

So get from a trusted source.

I normally  have a spare in the boot to help others when on tour. I do not need them as been on EFI since 2010.

Regards Harry 

 

 

 

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I've had your problem a few times and the causes have been spark and fuel  initiated.

If you don't change anything and the engine stops again pull a plug  , see if you have a spark and check if the plug is wet with fuel. If the plugs are dry  open the tank cap and see if the engine immediately restarts. If they're wet you have an ignition problem.

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Symptons pointo to coil, had 2 fails last 10 years...,

This time it took me some nights cave dweling to find that I had the low tension wire connection from the coil to distributor internaly  broken, outside and spade connectors in perfect condition.

It was a intermitent failure, a litle greemling was eating the fine copper mesh.

Test the voltage or the ohm resistance of this litle cable while moving it

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new Lucas Sport Coil (+ spare) on way, new Red Rotor on way as well plus new HT lead.

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11 minutes ago, Steve-B said:

new Lucas Sport Coil (+ spare) on way, new Red Rotor on way as well plus new HT lead.

Hate to say this but if theyre Lucas gold ones they have a very poor reputation now.

Stuart.

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Steve -

I fitted a Bosch Blue Coil to mine - have used them for many years on my old Land-Rover, and would avoid Lucas badged ones - 0 221 119 027 GENUINE 12V OEM BOSCH IGNITION COIL 

Mark

 

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...also check your ignition timing with a strobe - mine was way out the other day and as a result the engine had a hissy fit and would not restart after an hour's run!

Mark

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1 minute ago, mrehke said:

...also check your ignition timing with a strobe - mine was way out the other day and as a result the engine had a hissy fit and would not restart after an hour's run!

Mark

When it was restarted it was running perfectly on song, nary a hitch so I kind of may put this aside for now.

Oh, and supplier of Lucas coil just informed me they're backordered so I've accepted a Remax instead.

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I have been a user of the Bosch Blue coil, non ballasted one on my TR4 for several years without problems. I have been looking for another one, this time ballasted for my TR6 CR but everyone I have tried says they are on back order. Can anyone suggest a supplier who may have one in stock?

Does anyone know of an equivalent good reliable coil alternative supplier, please?

John

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7 minutes ago, J R Martin said:

I have been a user of the Bosch Blue coil, non ballasted one on my TR4 for several years without problems. I have been looking for another one, this time ballasted for my TR6 CR but everyone I have tried says they are on back order. Can anyone suggest a supplier who may have one in stock?

Does anyone know of an equivalent good reliable coil alternative supplier, please?

John

Martin (Distributor Doctor) will supply you with top quality replacement coils https://www.distributordoctor.com/

Stuart.

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18 hours ago, J R Martin said:

Many thanks Stuart I have a Flamethrower from the DD but would like a spare to carry with me just in case!

Ive never known one of those fail but if you really want a spare I would go for another one of the same.

Stuart.

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I’ve just this afternoon installed a new Remax sport coil as couldn’t find Bosch replacement. Then as recommended I’ve also installed a new red rotor from DD. Now waiting for adhesive to set on new cam cover cork gaskets which has weights in overnight then hopefully we’re good tomorrow evening. Fingers crossed all!

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Well the problem is not gone!

Drove to near Silverstone from Marlow this morning , a journey of 48 miles. Ran mostly flawlessly(think I’ve got a forked plug)  up the M40 and on the A43/422 no issues. Coming back this afternoon same route I once again <10 miles from home on local A road and it was an identical repeat of last Sunday with the cut-out. Open fuel cap, no whoosh  

Fuel pump wasn’t whirring-more a weird moaning-ish hum but it wasn’t hot to touch. 
Popped the bonnet open saw no oil or obvious issue, with new coil touchable though warm.
Left bonnet open for 10 mins and it started so got another 4-5 miles down road and it did it again. Gave it 15ish minutes car started and go it home. 

I’m guessing either reconditioned MFU, new PRV, something gumming up fuel pump, or <unlikely?> electric condenser (though it never was an issue in last year heat)

Totally stumped. 

Edited by Steve-B
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You need to see if you still get a spark so you can determine if it's electrical or fuel related. 

Gareth

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3 hours ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

You need to see if you still get a spark so you can determine if it's electrical or fuel related. 

Gareth

Hi Gareth, I presume your point for me to investigate is when it cuts out?

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6 minutes ago, Steve-B said:

Hi Gareth, I presume your point for me to investigate is when it cuts out?

Yes exactly that, you should be able to test you have a spark or not, you can even remove some of the injectors and see if they are spraying while cranking over, that way you'll find the area that's stopped working.

Gareth

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I experienced the symptoms you describe many years ago. It turned out to be a tiny bit of plastic film in line to the pre-filter. Never worked out how it got there. When the engine was running it would eventually block the line. Stop the engine and it would fall out of place. So, maybe check the lines to your pump & filter, and a look into the fuel tank might not go amiss.

JC

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9 hours ago, JohnC said:

I experienced the symptoms you describe many years ago. It turned out to be a tiny bit of plastic film in line to the pre-filter. Never worked out how it got there. When the engine was running it would eventually block the line. Stop the engine and it would fall out of place. So, maybe check the lines to your pump & filter, and a look into the fuel tank might not go amiss.

JC

Yes the foil cap from a bottle of additive is another favourite for getting accidentally dropped in the tank 

Stuart

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On 6/3/2023 at 10:17 PM, Mk2 Chopper said:

Yes exactly that, you should be able to test you have a spark or not, you can even remove some of the injectors and see if they are spraying while cranking over, that way you'll find the area that's stopped working.

Gareth

Today we've used some of the plug lead caps that have an LED inside them and ran the engine to near overheating, no failure and loadsa spark.

Then a secondary test of the pressure pulling fuel from the tank to the pump sees fuel deprivation to the pump, which when hot may be the source of the moaning pump when this has happened. As the pump could be a limiting factor, and several here have noted lack of secondary filter, am fitting a Prestige pump with big bore from the tank + extra filter plus removing the tank, adding a bigger bore outlet.

Next the < 1yr old NGKs are being replaced, just as a precaution with BP6ES ones.

It will be hotter here in So. Bucks later this week and given both failures have happened later in day after 20--40 mile runs, will be taking car back out.

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