oxf2 Posted December 6, 2022 Report Share Posted December 6, 2022 Showing below is a pic of what's under the distributor cap. Since I'm checking the points for 15 thou, I've got the spur on the heel of the cam. But which screw to turn, screw 1 or screw 2, as shown in the pic below? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 6, 2022 Report Share Posted December 6, 2022 The adjustment isn't just to turn either. They are there to clamp the points plate to the base-plate. If you look closely you can see that the hole under screw #1 is slotted, which allows the C -shaped plate carrying the fixed points contact to swivel on the base-plate. Slacken both screws slightly and then swivel the plate until the points gap is correct, then tighten both securely. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
billy l Posted December 6, 2022 Report Share Posted December 6, 2022 I would do something about the bare red with yellow tracer wire before it shorts out. Cheers, Bill. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 6, 2022 Report Share Posted December 6, 2022 Good point Bill. That has obviously been 'repaired' at some point as the wire shouldn't be a solid-core one anyway, it should be flexible. (Although that dizzy doesn't seem to have vacuum advance, the wire does need to be moved sometimes to adjust the gap and replace the points, so a solid-core wire will eventually fracture from the bending) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
billy l Posted December 6, 2022 Report Share Posted December 6, 2022 6 minutes ago, RobH said: Good point Bill. That has obviously been 'repaired' at some point as the wire shouldn't be a solid-core one anyway, it should be flexible. (Although that dizzy doesn't seem to have vacuum advance, the wire does need to be moved sometimes to adjust the gap and replace the points, so a solid-core wire will eventually fracture from the bending) Rob, Isn't that the vacuum advance at the bottom of the pic? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 6, 2022 Report Share Posted December 6, 2022 (edited) I thought that might be just a manual advance-retard screw adjustment but looking again it might be vac as you say. If it is vacuum A-R then that wire would soon break. Edited December 6, 2022 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DesNoble Posted December 6, 2022 Report Share Posted December 6, 2022 The best way to set points is by using a dwell meter. It's cheap and easy to use. The easiest way is to remove the distributor cap and rotor arm, set the points roughly with a feeler gauge then connect 12v across the points with the dwell meter attached. For a 4 cylinder engine it's 60 deg. so you just motor the engine over and set the timing while you are doing that. Job done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oxf2 Posted December 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2022 Thank you all for your help and suggestions. Points are fine now, though I have yet to replace that single core wire, which I will do asap Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted December 7, 2022 Report Share Posted December 7, 2022 I've never seen this type of distributor on a TR. Most of my experience is TR2s and 3s, is this on a late 3A. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 7, 2022 Report Share Posted December 7, 2022 Looks like a normal 25D4 to me ? Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 7, 2022 Report Share Posted December 7, 2022 It’s a DM2 distributor on a TR2. With the awfully expensive 2 screw points. Same points as Daimler Dart uses. The vacuum unit connects with a pin and sprung ‘R’ clip. The parallel hole the pin goes into on the base plate wears oval and the timing scatter is quite noticeable. The bob weights have inset brass pivot bushes that wear oval too. Works fine when new or fully reconditioned. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted December 7, 2022 Report Share Posted December 7, 2022 I fit an electronic ignition kit, fit and forget. The car starts much better and runs better at low revs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 7, 2022 Report Share Posted December 7, 2022 16 minutes ago, Phil Read said: I fit an electronic ignition kit, fit and forget. The car starts much better and runs better at low revs. +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DesNoble Posted December 7, 2022 Report Share Posted December 7, 2022 I had an electronic kit but had terrible problems with timing and engine cutting out. Finally having checked everything from cam timing to carb jet rebuild I replaced the electronic ignition with a set of good points - bingo the car runs beautifully and the timing is spot on the curve. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 7, 2022 Report Share Posted December 7, 2022 43 minutes ago, Phil Read said: I fit an electronic ignition kit, fit and forget. The car starts much better and runs better at low revs. +1 (Pertronix) Bob (must pay more attention to Dizzy types ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted December 8, 2022 Report Share Posted December 8, 2022 (edited) 16 hours ago, Lebro said: Looks like a normal 25D4 to me ? Bob It was the points that threw me, I've not seen them with two set screws. All of mine have the one screw and slot to put a screwdriver in to adjust the gap. I've also put electronic ignition in all the TRs except for the concours TR2, which runs points for originality. The TR3 has Pertronix and the TR6 and daily driver TR2 both have Lumenition. Both types seem to work reliably and efficiently. Edited December 8, 2022 by John McCormack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted December 8, 2022 Report Share Posted December 8, 2022 Hi, You have a P.M. Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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