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DesNoble

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    34
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About DesNoble

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    Currently TR3A since 1969, chassis up restoration.
    Have also owned a TR7 hardtop and a TR7 convertible.

Recent Profile Visitors

252 profile views
  1. I finally had success with my door catch. In the end I removed the locking plate from behind the lock by drilling out the upper spot weld and elongating the holes. I also had to cut away some of the door frame where the lock sits to allow more vertical movement. I then had to fashion a wedge shaped shim to fit behind the lock to align it with the luggs. The lock and the catch on the B post must be parallel as well as the correct height. Because the car is already painted I substituted the top weld for a screw. Sounds easy but while doing it I stripped the backing plate which I removed and turned around so I could drill and tap new holes but I managed to strip these as well. Turned out that the new screws which I had obtained from a normally reliable source were m5 and not imperial. While their thread was very similar especially over the width of the locking plate with fitting and removing so many times it finally stripped the threads. I had to have all the holes welded up and start again. This is why this simple job takes so long.
  2. Thanks for the info guys. I've resigned myself to some resetting of the mounting holes in both the door and if necessary the B post. I've started with the door as I see you can remove the top weld of the bracket without too much trouble, slide out the securing bracket and then enlarge or elongate the holes to accommodate the vertical movement. Hopefully the lock plate will cover the holes, and maybe even the hole I drilled to remove the weld for the retaining bracket. I'm halfway through this so fingers crossed.
  3. Rob's answer covers the interference laterally but has anyone any suggestions about the vertical alignment. My car has been sprayed so caution is required. What about easing the captive plates which the retaining screws screw into and enlarging the holes to give more location movement, has anyone don this.
  4. Thanks Rob. Yes it does sound similar. I have shaved off about 1.5mm from the back of the striker on the B post, but now I need to workout how to align it vertically. There is no room for maneuver on the door and if I move the striker on the B post I think I'll uncover some of the holes.
  5. Has anyone had the problem on a rebuild after aligning the doors when you came to fit the door locks they didn't line up and actually interfered. I shaved some off the back of the B post catch to solve the interference but there is still a difference in height to resolved. It seems that the adjustment on the B post may be the best to enlarge. Has anyone any suggestions?
  6. Thanks Ian, that's a great help. Des
  7. Some time ago, about 5 or 6 months, I came across a video which showed how to trim the inside of a TR3 particularly the rear wheel arches, however I've been unable to find it again. Has anyone come across this and if so can you give me the address. Thanks. Des
  8. Thanks Tush. I had seen these on Moss's site but didn't understand how they worked. I've just read how from your post ref. and from an engineering point of view it's ingenious. Again thanks. Des
  9. Good morning Tush, I'm impressed by your video and your keenness to tackle these restorations. I've owned my TR3A since 1969 but it's been off the road since the mid 70's and I'm only now completing a chassis up rebuild. I'm not fimiliar with the MGA indicator but I'll take a look out of interest. (I started the rebuild eight years ago). Regards. Des
  10. Yes I see that someone like classiccarleds produce a replacement relay which clicks like an old fashioned indicator and can be used for incandescent or LED, I like that idea. Des
  11. Sorry Ben, I missed your post as I was looking at my emails. Thanks for the photos, very helpful. I'll have a search under that topic. I tried before I posted my question but found nothing which surprised me. Regards. Des.
  12. What do you do with your control head? Do you just let it swing freely or is it fixed and turn with the wheel? Des.
  13. James. I'll have a look, there's a Harley Davidson shop not far away. Actually I saw a host of interesting pics on the web and some nice solutions (and some expensive ones!). Des.
  14. Thanks Miles, I'm heading down the stalk solution but it's good to have negative feed back as well. I can forget about harbouring any thoughts about the dash mounted switch. Regards. Des
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