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DesNoble

TR Register Members
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    62
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About DesNoble

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    Currently TR3A since 1969, chassis up restoration.
    Have also owned a TR7 hardtop and a TR7 convertible.

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  1. That's a fairly unanimous response so I'm off into the cold to attempt that. Des.
  2. Hi Bob That has been suggested but I didn't think there would be enough movement without undoing all the fixings along the body attachment and am reluctant to do that unless it's absolutely necessary. Rereading your response it's a sideways movement that is required. Have you tried this or do you think there is usually enough give in the body to do this. Des. PS The more I think about this the more I realise that I might have to try that. One of those jobs which should have been checked prior to painting the car.
  3. Good morning all. I couldn't see any items on this topic so here goes. While fitting the rear overriders with the bolt/tube the holes don't quite align up. I've been able to use an 8mm ripper to open up part of the inner/middle hole but because of the chassis there's not enough room to complete the hole. My ripper tool isn't quite long enough to reach from the outside and of course I don't want to damage the paintwork. Anyone with any ideas or tools. I've been unable to find any suitable tools. Regards. Des.
  4. Thanks guys it didn't occur to me to start it off with a countersunk bolt. I'll give that a try. Des
  5. Would the half grommet be sufficient to cover the ovality? I know it's slightly off subject but how do you compress the Dzus Half Grommet. I've tried with a nut and bolt but didn't have a satisfactory result. Des
  6. Yes I was able to get the pistons out after soaking them in something like WD40. However without something like the tool I got the skirt of the liner is very thin and a small target if your using a 4lb persuader. Des.
  7. Am I being a bit simple here. Surely if all the gauges read high then it indicates that your thermostat is duff. Have you tried replacing that and seeing what the temperature reading is. Des.
  8. I couldn't move mine using a block and 4lb hammer so I had a plug made up at my local machine shop. Cost a bit but the liners then came out easily. Don't worry about damaging the liners as you will have to replace them anyway. I ended up with 87mm pistons and liners from Racetorations as the first set I got of std 86mm from another supplier were rubbish and one split. The plug I got made is for 86mm liner so that is what the step is. Des.
  9. Count me in for the sensor in the bottom hose pipe and the override switch. Des.
  10. Hi John, The you can buy the screws from Rimmer. The thread size I think is BA. I had a problem with the corner ones as they are very similar, but different from UNF. Note I'm doing this from memory so not 100% certain other than to warn that there is a tiny but significant difference in the thread. Des.
  11. Yes I cut the seatbelt mounting off but I cut it right back at the runner so I doesn't show, see attached photo. The seat belts were a real act of smoke and mirrors as there was only mm to spare. Points to note, I used the long centre fixing point. The floor mounting should be three or four inches forward of the "B" post according to the seatbelt manufacturer sand I placed my inertia reals above the rear seat, originally I was going to try and place them below but it just didn't seem worthwhile. The picture of the centre mounting shows the slight pinching of the prop tunnel. Actually it's
  12. Yes the carpets are all in and so too are the seatbelts, and yes they were tight but as I mentioned I eased the prop shaft tunnel to give them more room also I cut the underlay and glued the carpet to the tunnel. On the outside I made sure the trim was secured tight against the rear quarter. It works well, was a shoehorn job working in millimetres but I think it works well. Des.
  13. Thanks Rob, Here are the pictures which give you some idea of the MX5 seats. One of the advantages is the ability to remove the headrests both to fit under the tonneau and be more in period when you want. Regards. Des.
  14. Thanks Rob, I'll give it a try shortly. Des.
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