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Heater leak. - new T7 Heater


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26 minutes ago, Hamish said:

Stuart 

can you still easily get your hand on both the adjustable vents past the fore/aft supports to open and close them etc

do you have any fully assembled pics ?

Yes you can though TBH once set theres no real need to play with them Ive found. Only this picture

Stuart.

 

003 (4).JPG

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Well it’s unpacked and first impressions

its tiny !!! And we’ll made.

I know dimensions are on the web but you can really understand it in person !!

it’s a £1 coin for scale.  

16798E7F-311F-405F-B8BE-3766D7154CE2.jpeg

16D6B1F5-6ED3-41A7-B98E-703ED710530A.jpeg

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I do think the new heater fan is noisier in its operation than the old Smiths Grannie’s Breath heater, which was almost silent by comparison, when the blades were not scraping the casing.    The increased air output no doubt has a lot to do with the additional noise.

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6 minutes ago, Lebro said:

I presume you can still slow it down with the rheostat, (or other speed control)

Bob

Yes the original rheostat works, but maybe not as effectively as it did on the old heater fan motor.   That could be because of inefficiency in the old fan motor that could be slowed to near stop 

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3 hours ago, Lebro said:

Thanks Bob 

but already concerned as the t7 only has a red and a black wires

and your eBay item has a rainbow selection. :blink:

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PWM does make a big difference, allowing very low fan speed. It was “brill” on the Rally last week. 
The diagram on the front makes the wiring very simple……even I sorted that and as Bob will testify I’m no electrician:-)
Iain

Edited by iain
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Connection is not much of a problem Hamish.  Red and Black - ignition switched power and earth to the PWM unit.     Blue and Green respectively outputs to Red and Black on the motor.  "Simples."

 

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1 hour ago, RobH said:

 

Connection is not much of a problem Hamish.  Red and Black - ignition switched power and earth to the PWM unit.     Blue and Green respectively outputs to Red and Black on the motor.  "Simples."

 

Thank you

:unsure:
 

do these pwm controllers need an on/off switch ?

Edited by Hamish
Switch question
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12 hours ago, Hamish said:

do these pwm controllers need an on/off switch ?

Not necessarily - as long as the supply is ignition-switched (via a fuse), but you would have to turn the control all the way down when you don't want heat.  Personal preference really rather than a technical need. 

 

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I don't have one on mine, just wired via the ign, & turn the control fully one way results in no voltage going to the motor.

20200612_164922.thumb.jpg.0c2e7b2abbc12282fae83aa31a7d5cbd.jpg  20200613_123506.thumb.jpg.5d2f8daca011d2c0a9417e275898e438.jpg click on to enlarge

20200613_143201.thumb.jpg.cbbf0c68302ff916a59716c447dd8c54.jpg  20200613_143154.thumb.jpg.729f18b33e17dff11f391e16f582cacc.jpg  20200613_172725.thumb.jpg.865963ac997dee3413e204454d2f0d9e.jpg

Also mounted the control "pot" inside the shell of the old rheostat

Bob

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53 minutes ago, Hamish said:

Can’t win them all I guess. 
still happy with the purchase. 

I have thought about fitting two of these in the bottom plate of my heater, either pointing crosswise, left and right or both lengthwise to enable blown heater forward into foot wells.

https://www.t7design.co.uk/oblong-dash-vent-55mm-2-17-428-ce8-ea2.html

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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14 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I have thought about fitting two of these in the bottom plate of my heater, either pointing crosswise, left and right or both lengthwise to enable blown heater forward into foot wells.

https://www.t7design.co.uk/oblong-dash-vent-55mm-2-17-428-ce8-ea2.html

TBH If you position the circular vents supplied in the right place footwell heat is fine

Stuart.

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On 11/28/2022 at 3:35 PM, AJ2014 said:

Hi could anyone confirm if a 1 metre length of 1.25” flexible heater duct from T7 is enough for a TR2 install please?

Cheers

Ade

I bought that much and it was More than ample with my T7 heater in TR3(1958 model)

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